Pipe for an Older Coal Burner

I think I'm ready to buy some stovepipe for my old coal burner. The 90 degree cast piece that exits the back of the stove is cracked so I'd like to know if I can replace it with a standard 6" 90 deg bend. It's got a curious vent on it that's adjustable by a flathead screw, as if it's letting air into the pipe.

I posted photos on another tread:
Antique "Monogram": Help Identify and Install

Also, I'll need to make a another turn to put it into the thimble, should that bend be 90deg or should I try for a 45 degree and angle the last piece of pipe into the thimble? (I suppose I ought to try to fit a 6" peice of pipe in my thimble at 45 degrees.)

Any advice would be welcomed, thanks.

Yes you can connect the 90 degree elbow directly to the back. It is best to limit horizontal runs as much as possible and for this stove you will need a manual pipe damper or a barometric damper to control it because these types of stoves are not air tight. Opinions vary on which damper to use so I recommend you read the opposing views found in this forum to make your choice.

Another thought, instead of using elbows you could use tees with removable caps for easy cleaning.

There are guys who weld that cast iron. From what I understand it's a long drawn out process. Scott

This is the cracked 90 degree. I don't exactly know what the adjustable plate on the right side is all about but if I can, in fact replace this with stovepipe, I will. I just wanted to make sure I'm not creating a dangerous situation.
These photos are my thimble, which is about 6 1/2", and the area in front of the chimney where I'll set up the stove. (In front of the plastic buckets).

My plan is to come out of the back of the stove, turn 90 degrees (with a T) then go up to a 45 degree, then angle it into the thimble if I can.

You can probably use that cast elbow. Seal it up with furnace cement, and use large hose clamp, like on a car's radiator hose to wrap around the casting and hold the crack together.. If you can't find a single hose clamp large enough, you can string them together to make a large diameter one..

The sliding vent on the side of the elbow is a primitive draft control. With it slid open it would reduce the draft inside the stove.

Greg L

I'll give the clamp/furnace cement fix a try. Seems like good advice.

I didn't like the idea of using a sheet-metal piece in place of this big cast thing. I'm guessing I should adjust the slider to closed for starters.

I've had a hell of a time finding stovepipe in Metro Detroit, especially black. I was thinking an installer might have pipe on-hand so I called a few. None kept appointments.

Anyone know of any coal stove installers in Metro Detroit? I'm just wanting to get this thing installed and my insurance agent prefers a "professional" installation.

Would JB Weld work on a crack? If so that would be a permanent fix. I used it to repair threads on a cast iron radiator. It works great.

Dr Cherry, where in Metro Detroit are you?? if you are in the northern suburbs or towns there are tons of places to buy stove pipe and accessories..

I'm just south of Flint,, PM me with your location if you want some help finding pipe and advice..

Greg L

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I finally found some of the stovepipe I was looking for at another Lowe's. I'm hunting down some stove cement to seal my replacement mica and seal the crack in the first bend coming out of the stove.

throw the broken elbow out replace with new, your burning coal its not worth the few dollars you may save trying to cobble up a repair, you and your familys safety are not worth trying to fix that damaged elbow

The elbow has a huge sliding air damper on it, that won't seal completely, the crack in the elbow is small, probably would leak less than the sliding damper. It would be a miracle to find a replacement cast elbow for this stove..
Properly repaired and hooked to a properly drafting chimney, the elbow should be safe to use.

Greg L

dr cherry,
you can have that ell welded it's not that hard a project, find a good welding shop and some hi nickel rod, and a rosebud oxy/acetylene torch. then just close off the damper and install a tee and barometric damper at the thimble, that should get you going prettu quick. the reason for the cast ell on the back of the stove is to absorb some of the heat and not turn the first fitting in to a glowing piece of metal that could possibly start a fire through radiant convection.
val