Plumbing and Flue Pipe Questions With Pics

OK, I'm getting serious about hooking this thing up. I have a few questions. First, I have read on here that there should be 12" of straight pipe before the circulator pump. I have 12" of straight directly out of the top of the boiler, but I have a valve in between two nipples. Does this still constitute a 12" straight run? See pic below.

Second question is on my flue pipe. I have a tee coming directly out of the furnace, which I will cap on the unused end for a cleanout. Then it goes at approximately a 45 degree angle up for almost 6 feet to the second tee which I have also installed my baro damper in. From that tee it gets increased to 8" and goes into the thimble. Is this all acceptable.

Thanks again,

Jeff

Is there a reason why the boiler isn't lined up with the chimney so the pipe could be vertical instead of at an angle?
Does the pipe fit tight into the thimble? It looks like there's a gap on top.
Is that sheet rock touching the clay thimble?

Yes thats where the furnace has to be to get both cars in the garage. This is not the final assembly. I will fill the gap with furnace cement. Yes the drywall is up against the clay thimble. Is this a problem? I thought drywall was fire resistant.

The use of isolation pump flange valves would do you good on that set up.http://www.watts.com/pro/_productsFull_tree.asp?c ... =693&ref=2 . Makes it very nice to change things out and you could remove that first valve and use it someplace else.

Do you have an expansion tank,air scoop air purge ect ? My circulator is after these things.

I've not heard about 12" coming out of the top of a boiler, but most do. The 10 or 12" talked about is that distance horizontal before the air scoop. Generally, a pipe sticking up 12 or more inches, then an elbow. Then 10" or more before an air scoop. The expansion tank hangs from the air scoop, an mini ball valve on top of the air scoop, and an air purge on that. After that would be the pump if you're "pumping away". You want the pump after the air scoop. And, yup, there should be valves one way or another so you can remove & replace the pump without draining the whole system.

I'm using an 18 gallon ceiling mount expansion tank, so I shouldn't need the air scoop correct? If this is the case, I should be ok how I am already plumbed right?

Your still going to need an air scoop with a purge above it to get alot of the air out of the system.I would also install a flow check before the circulator pump.The expansion tank will not purge air but will soak up the extra pressure that developes in a closed system rather than venting it off, up to 30psi.Normal operating pressure is 12 to 15 psi but will go above that in some situations.You can look at others installations on this forum,many pictures of how they put their systems together.Don't just go ahead and start plumbing without being sure or you will have problems and need to take it apart later.

Ahhhh, Ohhhhh, If you have an old style non-bladder tank on the ceiling, perhaps you do not need an air purge. The systems made back in the 40's & 50's didn't have air scoops. If designed perfectly, they worked well and rarely if ever, needed tending. I was loaned a book titled "Pumping Away" by Dan Holohan. It showed how to plumb an old style system and gave wonderful insight in how they worked....and why they wouldn't. If I were doing it, I'd want an experienced person, or that book in front of me.

Does anyone have any input on my flue pipe?

Hello ash, I see no problem with your flue setup.

Greg L