Manometer Hit .05!!!
- CoalHeat
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27 degrees here, the Alaska is at full fire. I'll be firing the Harman soon.
If -.06 is the highest it goes then you're OK. I run the Harman at -.05".
If -.06 is the highest it goes then you're OK. I run the Harman at -.05".
- Flyer5
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Yesterday afternoon I came home to see .1 the baro all the way open . It was actually pulling the flapper door shut .I backed the bolt off a bit more to let a little more clearance between the flapper and hole,that did the trick ,the draft stayed below .06 after that . Didn't seem to cause much trouble the dump zones did there job . It was very windy and cold . I guess an 8" damper may be in order. Dave
I guess it is a good read. (Greg is the manometer expert) It's the highest reading I've ever had as mine usually is around .02-,03 which I guess is to low.(trying to figure out why I burn such a small amount of coal per season...About 2 tons max....No complaints fro me though! )Freddy wrote:Isn't .05 considered good? Or is that a rarity for you.
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New to coal and not sure if I'm right on this one but here ot goes. Shouldn't you get your best burn around .01 pressure diff. I don't monitor my presure dif due to direct vent but i'm thinking that I want to monitor it. I understand the need for negative pressure insn't anything more than -.01 just going to pull heat out the vent?
It's been my experience that, since I never have any CO readings on my detectors, can keep a cool fire going on a warm day & burn less than 2 tons of coal per season that a low chimney draft is best. My daughter just had a new masonry chimney built & the thing could double as a central vacuum system, the way it sucks air!James Goodine wrote:New to coal and not sure if I'm right on this one but here ot goes. Shouldn't you get your best burn around .01 pressure diff. I don't monitor my presure dif due to direct vent but i'm thinking that I want to monitor it. I understand the need for negative pressure insn't anything more than -.01 just going to pull heat out the vent?
Her baro damper is always working hard but I don't need one.
(moral of the story: If you have a new masonry chimney built:...have them use old bricks, leave many cracks & leaking mortar joints, leave off the clean out door, don't seal the wall thimble very tight &......Just kidding Greg!! )
- LsFarm
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To answer James Goodine's question, in a perfect world, yes you are correct.. But there are wide variations in stove design [Devil's is a hand feed] coal heat and ash content. and combustion air required for desired heat output.
With a hand feed stove, the higher draft usually needed to draw combustion air through the coal bed.. without enough draft you will have problems keeping a fire going, and have partially burnt coal, and potential CO leaks into the house .05" is the normal minimum draft.
With a stoker stove, there is a combustion blower providing forced air through the grate and the coal bed, so the draft required is less than in a hand feed. But you still need enough draft to make sure there is no exhaust leakage into the house via gaps around viewing windows, stoker mechanisms and hoppers. .02-.04" is the normal minimum draft.
Greg L.
With a hand feed stove, the higher draft usually needed to draw combustion air through the coal bed.. without enough draft you will have problems keeping a fire going, and have partially burnt coal, and potential CO leaks into the house .05" is the normal minimum draft.
With a stoker stove, there is a combustion blower providing forced air through the grate and the coal bed, so the draft required is less than in a hand feed. But you still need enough draft to make sure there is no exhaust leakage into the house via gaps around viewing windows, stoker mechanisms and hoppers. .02-.04" is the normal minimum draft.
Greg L.
- SMITTY
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Just hooked up my Dwyer yesterday & I saw a .07 in the wind storm we had. With stove & chimney ICE cold! Seemed to pull .01-.02 steady, without wind. Was almost 60* out.
When the boiler kicked on, it went to .05 - .07 . After I saw that, I moved the weight on the barometric damper on the boiler to lessen the draft, but it only reduced it by .01 .
Can't wait to see what kind of numbers I get with the stove cranked up...
When the boiler kicked on, it went to .05 - .07 . After I saw that, I moved the weight on the barometric damper on the boiler to lessen the draft, but it only reduced it by .01 .
Can't wait to see what kind of numbers I get with the stove cranked up...
- LsFarm
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Dick, were you watching the manometer yesterday when the winds were so high?? I'd think you should have seen some high draft readings..
I think you had winds gusting over 35-40mph?? Over the weekend, my normally .02-.03" chimney was seeing .06".. and the baro was 'working'.
Greg L.
I think you had winds gusting over 35-40mph?? Over the weekend, my normally .02-.03" chimney was seeing .06".. and the baro was 'working'.
Greg L.
I didn't see any high readings Greg, unless I missed it. I'm pretty sheltered in a bowl & the highest reading I've seen ever was around .05 with a fairly high fire & high 30's outside.LsFarm wrote:Dick, were you watching the manometer yesterday when the winds were so high?? I'd think you should have seen some high draft readings..
I think you had winds gusting over 35-40mph??