Setting Draft With Rheostat on Power Vent

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abhhnovinger
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Posts: 2
Joined: Sun. Oct. 19, 2008 9:15 pm

Post by abhhnovinger » Sun. Oct. 19, 2008 9:34 pm

Hello, been reading here a bit but I need your input on this.
I just got a Alaska Channing III stove. It has a power vent, baro dampener mounted right on top of the stove. The person that installed it
adjusted the baro when it wasn't even burning full yet and he used his pen as a gauge. With that said I just ordered a Mark 25 manometer
to make sure this get sets up correct. The power vent is also just plugged into the outlet running full speed.

I bought a rheostat for fan control at Lowes, handles up to 5 amps. I want to install this for the power vent and get everything set up.

With the stove running at max do I set the baro first with the power vent running full to achive around .03-.04
or do I turn the power vent down enough to get my draft.

Where would you start, power vent speed, or baro adjust. I just don't want the power vent sucking all the heat out.

I also read that you should take your reading about 12" above the stove, but before the baro. I don't have that, so should I take it right there
below the baro, or I can drill a hole in the side of the burn box. I can also change the pipe if the baro should be higher.

Thanks for any help.

 
bustedwing
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Posts: 152
Joined: Sun. May. 11, 2008 1:48 pm
Location: south central pa
Hot Air Coal Stoker Furnace: LL Pioneer
Coal Size/Type: Rice
Other Heating: Hot air oil

Post by bustedwing » Sun. Oct. 19, 2008 10:30 pm

I looked at Alaska's webpage and there are no stove manuals listed,if you didn't get any install/adjust info with it another Alaska owner would be the best source of knowledge.My stove is a LLPioneer which looks near identical on the outside but may not be the same internally,if you want to experiment,my SWG powervent is set to lowest with the rheostat,draft is almost .03,seems to stay the same regardless of fire size.Before my manometer arrived I fired the stove and spent a couple days tweaking the baro until the flame inside was mostly blue and a little slow and lazy,lots of yellow is incomplete combustion and a bit drafty,especially if minor sparking shoots up like a rocket.When the manometer finally arrived and was hooked up with the stove on idle(drill hole,bolt in fitting)no further adjustment was necessary,the draft was OK.Changes in outside barometric pressure(large)will effect the reading of the manometer,if draft changes measurably with obvious weather changes rezero the manometer,draft reading will be the same as it was.Have fun! RichB


 
bustedwing
Member
Posts: 152
Joined: Sun. May. 11, 2008 1:48 pm
Location: south central pa
Hot Air Coal Stoker Furnace: LL Pioneer
Coal Size/Type: Rice
Other Heating: Hot air oil

Post by bustedwing » Sun. Oct. 19, 2008 10:34 pm

Manometer fitting is the first vertical section of the pipe above the stove,just below the baro. RichB

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