Two Devices+One Flue = Two Baro's ???

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Bulldogr6
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Post by Bulldogr6 » Sun. Oct. 19, 2008 4:30 pm

I feel silly for not thinking of this sooner. I Finishing up with the hand fired unit and ready to switch to the stoker. I have all the new vent pipe and the baro that Beetle gave me. The hand fired coal unit has been run in the same flue as oil burner for 30+ years with just the manual damper. Of course the oil burner has a baro but when I hook up the Magnum should I install another or will the 8 inch on the oil burner suffice. I am of the feeling one will work but two would let each device operate more independent and efficient as long as I can maintain enough draft.

All input and advice appreciated.

If you need more info ask away.

Jer

 
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rockwood
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Post by rockwood » Sun. Oct. 19, 2008 6:58 pm

Will you be using the oil burner and stoker at the same time?
If the stoker can completely heat your home I would dedicate the flue for it alone.

 
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Post by rberq » Sun. Oct. 19, 2008 7:23 pm

Go to Field Controls internet site:
http://www.fieldcontrols.com/draftcontrol.php

Near the end, it shows examples of multiple appliances on one flue, using a separate baro for each appliance.

I believe the building codes in many places discourage or prohibit multiples.


 
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CoalHeat
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Post by CoalHeat » Sun. Oct. 19, 2008 7:29 pm

Each appliance should have it's own baro installed in the smoke pipe before any tees.

Most codes prohibit venting units which burn different fuels into the same flue. That doesn't mean it won't work (just my opinion).

 
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Bulldogr6
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Post by Bulldogr6 » Sun. Oct. 19, 2008 8:05 pm

I'm aware of the code issues. Its been together since the sixties when my father lived here. It only has to go one more year before I'll install a new direct vent appliance for summer use and then it will be dedicated for the stoker.

No t's involved their are two openings in the chimney, A baro for each it is thanks.

 
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Berlin
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Post by Berlin » Sun. Oct. 19, 2008 8:15 pm

yup two baro's would work. personally so long as the chimney can handle the volume and has sufficient draft, which after all these years it must; I wouldn't ever waste money powerventing.


 
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Bulldogr6
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Post by Bulldogr6 » Sun. Oct. 19, 2008 8:45 pm

I'm not crazy about power vents either.

I believe I'll end up replacing the oil fired boiler/ tankless DHW for a modulating, condensing gas boiler like this
**Broken Link(s) Removed** with a indirect hot water tank, that way I can use the DHW coil in the stoker during winter. The Lynx should work well for the DHW and baseboard heat if I cant run the Magnum.

 
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Post by Yanche » Sun. Oct. 19, 2008 10:29 pm

Be aware that condensing boilers only have an efficiency advantage if the flue gases actually condense. For that to happen you must have low temperature boiler return water. That's rarely the case in replacement situations. Without the low return water temperature the boiler will operate just like an much cheaper non-condensing boiler. Condensing boilers are well suited to radiant in-floor systems that use injection mixing and have low return water temperatures. Highly unlikely your baseboard return temperature will be low enough. At least not without a major redesign and re-plumbing.

 
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Post by kootch88 » Sun. Oct. 19, 2008 11:47 pm

If you have an insurance inspection, make sure one of the devices is disconnected as they will require you do that to continue coverage unless the agent looks the other way.

John

 
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Post by U235a4 » Mon. Oct. 20, 2008 8:57 am

Yanche wrote:Be aware that condensing boilers only have an efficiency advantage if the flue gases actually condense. For that to happen you must have low temperature boiler return water. That's rarely the case in replacement situations. Without the low return water temperature the boiler will operate just like an much cheaper non-condensing boiler. Condensing boilers are well suited to radiant in-floor systems that use injection mixing and have low return water temperatures. Highly unlikely your baseboard return temperature will be low enough. At least not without a major redesign and re-plumbing.
I second this..... I also what to add that you can use a condensing boiler with Cast iron rads since the water volume is high and return temp can be low but depending on how long the zone runs the return temp will rise and you'll loose the efficiency of the boiler then. For example I have cast iron rads and if I didn't use a mixing pump my return water would be around 80F for a bit till all the cold water in the rads was replaced with hot water.

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