Electric Code

Is PVC conduit acceptable for wiring zone pumps, controls etc. per the NEC?

I believe it's not ok to use. I have my pumps which are different from your setup but they have the blue metal conduit wiring to them. My electric guy says it's a new code to make it easier for inspectors so they know exactly what type of wire it is.

Any wires going to the boiler & pumps have to be metal with high temp wire (190 degree?) . I can't remember,,,ohhhh, Greenfield is the name of the flexible metal, of course solid metal conduit is OK too. I think the wire is called THHN, but don't quote me. Bottom line, romax stops at the fire safety switch on the ceiling above the boiler. If my memory is correct the fire safty is called a TC-1. For some reason I have a box before the TC1.

Shop around for the greenfield. It's not all that expensive, but I've seen places get high prices.

My Keystoker controls came wired with romex.

Buy aluminum BX sheathing at Lowes or Home Depot. Thread whatever gauge THHN wire you need in it. Be sure to add the green safety ground wire. Once you get to a wall surface you can use PVC conduit. All packaged (pre-wired boilers) come with BX right from the manufacturer.

Edit: I had Romex where it now says BX, my mistake, I know better I just got the terms mixed up. Greenfield is a sealed liquid tight flexible conduit. Obviously not something that would be of much help because the aquatstat and other control boxes are not waterproof.

Yanche wrote:All packaged (pre-wired boilers) come with romex right from the manufacturer.

Wellllllll, this might be another Maine thing, like the low water cut off is reguired here but not other places.... I have never seen a boiler come with anything but greenfield on it.

Thanks, this one I can handle. That radiator is another story.

I have also never seen a boiler come with Romex. Use Greenfield, as stated by Freddy, or Flex (short for flexible metal conduit) and insert your appropriate gauge wire for the circuit supplying your boiler (14 gauge for a 15 amp circuit or 12 gauge for a twenty amp circuit). Boiler wiring should be 15 amps. Do not use what is referred to as Super Flex as it is very popular but not UL rated. The blue cable, referred to previously, also is not legal. This cable is type AC or Armored Cable and is assembled with wires in it already. You can not use a "factory made wiring assembly" on a boiler (don't understand that one myself). The green wire is also not required in this circumstance as you are using the Flex and the copper piping for the ground. You will however need it for the PVC wiring method.
Hope all this junk helps

The blue cable, referred to previously, also is not legal. This cable is type AC or Armored Cable and is assembled with wires in it already. You can not use a "factory made wiring assembly" on a boiler (don't understand that one myself). The green wire is also not required in this circumstance as you are using the Flex and the copper piping for the ground. You will however need it for the PVC wiring method.
Hope all this junk helps

The blue wire was used because my electrician said it was for the "new code's" of course which I know nothing about. But he said they were going to the pre-wired colored metal conduit so that the inspectors would know what type of wire is under the metal without them having to open the conduit up to inspect it.

My bock water heater came with just regular metal conduit between the temp control and the oil burner. My electrician installed the blue striped conduit from the plug and light switch power outlet to the temp controller and then from the outlet to my zone controller, then to the three pumps.

Freddy
I have one yellow romax wire going to my TC-1 but no wires leaving it like yours does.

Well noted previously, my boiler has not been wired to code. My romex comes into the boiler building, then to two switches, one goes to the pump and the other to the stoker motor, so that I don't have to run them both at the same time (can clean out flues, burner head slots, etc. in the winter without stopping the water flow). Tied in with that is a light and it's switch. I apparently need THHN from the switches to the pump and to the motor, in conduit of some type. Since the motor is sitting kinda in the middle of the building, the romex used to just drop down from the ceiling and (gasp) connect to the motor. How do I remedy that? I'm assuming I can't just dangle the conduit from the ceiling and hook the it up to the motor???? And where does one get a TC-1?

All the wiring must be in BX (flex) or EMT (solid) conduit, no substitutes per NEC. Romex is not suitable due to puncture/shear issues. The only exception would be the low voltage wiring for thermostats and zone valves.
120V power anywhere on the appliance or attatched to it must meet NEC code.

charlie wrote: I'm assuming I can't just dangle the conduit from the ceiling and hook the it up to the motor???? And where does one get a TC-1?

My romex goes to the shutoff switch right next to the oil heater behind the wall and then from there it's the conduit to the boiler motor. The shut off right next to the oil heater is so it can easily be turned off to clean it and there is a plug in the same out let for them to connect a light to if needed.

TC-1 should be had at any electrical shop since it's something that is usually installed by an electrician.

I'll wire mine with BX and EMT with THHN wire. I suppose Keystoker could have used Romex to test the controls before a customer uses them. The wires they used may not even be long enough to use on the boiler!
I'm still working on plumbing.
This site is great!

Adamiscold wrote:My romex goes to the shutoff switch right next to the oil heater behind the wall and then from there it's the conduit to the boiler motor.

That is OK as the connection to the oil burner is in metal, the house wiring to the switch can be Romex as long as the switch is not on the unit itself.

IIRC Greenfield and BX are in fact the same thing, perhaps they are brand names for flexible metal conduit. Sealtite would be the liquid proof flex and it is not suitable for use on a heating appliance.