Volts & Watts Drawn From Alaska DV

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traderfjp
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Post Sat. Sep. 20, 2008 11:24 pm

I was wondering what the TOTAL amps/volt that an Alaska 3 stove uses (combustion blower and DV motor and Blower). Also, in case of losing electricity and I go to battery backup I may not want to run my blower. Does anyone know how much juice I would conserve but turning it off?
Disclaimer: I'm not an expert in any coal or plumbing related field. I only post my own experiences, research and common sense. If you choose to use any of the information in this post or any other post you do so at your own risk.

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Freddy
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Post Sun. Sep. 21, 2008 6:39 am

Can you get the the motors? Each motor should have a tag on it that tells the amps. I'm assuming voltage is 110/120.
Orrington, Maine
Fred

"If you can't say something nice, don't say anything at all".

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traderfjp
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Post Sun. Sep. 21, 2008 7:43 am

Thanks Fred: I have a corner intall and with the fresh air, baro, and DV it's very hard to get to the motors. I was able to see one that said 200 watts. I'm thinking 600 watts total. But I'm not sure. I'm trying to figure out how long the two marine batteries I bought at Costco will last. I ran my electrical line too for the UPS. I was all set to use an extension cord and the guy at Lowes convinced me to use 12-2 MB-B. I bought a nipple that goes on the conduit so I could screw in an outlet and box. Then I ran the line through the outside of the house (about 2 feet) and into the boiler room in the basement. The wire goes about another 5' in conduit there is another outlet at the end. I'll use a small extension cord with two plugs from the outlet to the UPS for power. After I did all this I read that you shouldn't use MB in conduit and that I should have used strands of wire. I guess it stays cooler with out the jacket. I don't know but I'm just going to keep it. I can always rip it out when I sell if there is a problem.

Fred do you think I should use a GFI outlet by the stove or is that overkill? The current design has me connecting the marine batteries in series (I think) for 24 volts to satisfy the UPS and then it connects to the UPS. Any suggestions for fuses or is the house breaker enough?
Disclaimer: I'm not an expert in any coal or plumbing related field. I only post my own experiences, research and common sense. If you choose to use any of the information in this post or any other post you do so at your own risk.

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WNY
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Post Sun. Sep. 21, 2008 8:29 am

Power (Watts) = I (Current) x V (Voltage)

So you can divide or multiply to figure out what you need. So, 200 Watts

200 W / V (120 Volts) = 1.6amps (approx).
- Dave
Hyfire I & Keystoker 90K heating an 1890 Victorian
- Amsoil Authorized T1 Certified Dealer


kjb197
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Post Sun. Sep. 21, 2008 12:06 pm

I was told you don't want motors on a GFCI. But you must have them in an unfinished basement (washer, dehumidifier?), bathroom (exhaust fan?), kitchen counters (blender, mixer?) etc. I wouldn't worry about it either way. Alot of computer equipment where I work is on UPS fed through GFCI extension cords.

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Freddy
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Post Sun. Sep. 21, 2008 7:21 pm

Some motors don't like GFI's....or some GFI's don't like motors. I don't think it'll hurt anything, but sometimes a motor will run for a while then trip. Unless it's close enough to take a shower while loading the stove, I'd skip the GFI.

Here's a bettery sketch for those that need to know.
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Batteries4.jpg
Orrington, Maine
Fred

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Post Sun. Sep. 21, 2008 8:01 pm

WNY wrote:Power (Watts) = I (Current) x V (Voltage)

So you can divide or multiply to figure out what you need. So, 200 Watts

200 W / V (120 Volts) = 1.6amps (approx).
Or VxA=W. volts x amps = watts
DON

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WNY
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Post Mon. Sep. 22, 2008 7:46 am

Thanks.
Yes, you have to check your UPS setup with a Volt meter, I know mine is 24 Vdc, so I would have to hook my batteries in SERIES as shown, If I wanted to udpate the built in batteries (don't last very long).

VxA=W

That is the same is what I said...
W(Watts) = A(amps) x V(Volts)
- Dave
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- Amsoil Authorized T1 Certified Dealer


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ntp71
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Post Mon. Sep. 22, 2008 12:08 pm

Finding out how long your batteries should last is easy once you know the Total Amperage you are using in your system and if you also know the AmpHour rating of the battery which should be displayed on the battery.

If P=V * I
then I = P/V

If your Amps Total is 5 amps, and your AmpHour rating is 25AH then

25AH/5 Amps = 5 hours

Neal

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Freddy
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Post Mon. Sep. 22, 2008 1:35 pm

ntp71 wrote: your Amps Total is 5 amps, and your AmpHour rating is 25AH then

25AH/5 Amps = 5 hours
Math is good, but batteries are lead & acid and electrons that didn't go to school. If you figured half, you'd be close to what you'd actually get. You'll get a bit more than half, in the case shown I'd bet 3 hours. Also, if you join two 25 AH batteries in parrellel, you get a 12V 50 AH battery. If you wire them in series, you get one 24V 25AH battery.
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Fred

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ntp71
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Post Mon. Sep. 22, 2008 1:43 pm

Actually I may have explained a bit wrong..falling asleep in a Transmitters/Recievers Class at the moment.

Take your Power Total and divide by your Total Battery Volatge and that will give you your Total Current Draw.

Then divide AmpHours by Total Current Draw.

This doesnt include the efficiency of the motors...which I don't have time for...late for class.

Neal

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Post Mon. Sep. 22, 2008 7:16 pm

Yeah 1/2 AH rating is about right.When they rate SLA batteries it is at a VERY low current.At higher currents the AH goes down.They have a name for it something affect.Li ions and nicd/nimh the affect isn't as bad.
DON

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