Coalpail.com Forum

coaledsweat wrote:Find your local heating and ventilation contractor supply house, a new RC is about $28 there.

Just the black baro it's self is that cheap, but the black tee and baro is around 75 bucks

djackman wrote:Field Controls says specifically "With oil or solid fuels, the bull head tee is not recommended"

http://www.fieldcontrols.com/draftcontrol.php

Guessing it doesn't make much of a real-world difference?

That is what it seems to say. I'm wondering if it would be ok to run it that way or not?

Draft Control (Installation Options)
Recommended Locations for Field Draft Controls
For gas-fired equipment, the preferred location of the control is on the bull head tee. This location provides maximum relief of downdrafts with minimum positive pressure. (See Fig. 1, Dia. A-C)
With oil or solid fuels, the bull head tee is not recommended, so locate the control as shown. (See Fig. 1, Dia. D-J) These locations are acceptable for gas units as well. Except on forced draft systems, locate the control as close as possible to the furnace or boiler, at least 12" beyond a stack switch on oil-fired units, and at least 18" from a combustible ceiling or wall.

The problem with the bullhead mount is that the face of the opening is not usually perpendicular to the floor as the horizontal pipe should have an upward angle to the breech. This can be addressed when mounting the baro shell, make sure that it is square and level when installed. In a high angle pitch mount, it may hang open slightly if the shell is mounted flush around the opening, it must be square and level to perform properly.

With solid fuels, Field Controls wants it mounted along the gas's path, not on a turnout. I'm not sure why and would like to know their reasons.

My horizontal pipe has a slight pitch, but there is enough leeway in the tee to get the baro level. I should note that every time I remove it to clean the pipe I level it when reinstalling.

Personally, I think the advantages of mounting the baro in the 'bullhead tee' are too great to pass up. The abiity to look in with a flashlight to inspect the horizontal pipe for ash accumulation, the ease of cleaning without dissassembling the flue piping system, these make it a 'no brainer' for me..

I'd just install the damper correctly and monitor it with a Manometer.

Greg L.

The other option, which eliminates the removal of the baro and allows installation in the conventional, vertical or horizontal positions, is to use the extra tee with a removable end cap for inspection and clean-out.

(My paint job looks like s**t under the lights of the camera )

Thanks guys, I'm going to have to play around with the height I have and see what I can do and what fits in with code for this area.

Just bought a black fields RC damper and tee together at my local hardware store for $39. Alaska sells them at their factory showroom for the same price.

$39 for the black RC tee? I bought the other one at a local hardware store and it's the only one they carried. I'm going to have to go shopping around and see what I can find.