Sealing Black Chimney Pipe Joint Connecions

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syncmaster
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Post Sun. Aug. 31, 2008 2:12 pm

I have never worked with black chimney pipe till now
It seems to be alot thicker than galvanized chimney pipe.
as a result of being thicker the seam is bulkier, when I put two pieces together you can see two 1/8" holes on each side of the pipe seam.
is this small enough to ignore? or is there a sealant I should use on it?

I have foil tape, would that be good to use around the connection?

I'll post pictures below
Attachments
IMG_1432_8.JPG
IMG_1430_6.JPG
here you can see where the bulky seam goes into the connection
IMG_1428_4.JPG
here with the flash off you can see the light coming thru whe the pipe seam is.

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Richard S.
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Post Sun. Aug. 31, 2008 2:20 pm

The connections at the seams should be fastend with 3 screws which should pull the gap together. Use 4 if you have too. In the event of a "backfire" if they aren't fastened with screws there is very real chance they will pull apart completely and the gases will be going in the house.

Unless you have a direct vent stove which creates positive pressure no sealer is required. Just make sure the pipe is going in the right direction. The end of the pipe that goes inside should be on the end of the pipe heading towards the chimney.

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coaledsweat
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Post Sun. Aug. 31, 2008 2:29 pm

If the gaps bug you, push a little furnace cement in them.

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LsFarm
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Post Sun. Aug. 31, 2008 3:26 pm

As Ian said, furnace cement, or Permatex 'Ultra Black' automotive RTV sealant.. this stuff holds up to ~500* in my flue pipes.. You can probably get away with just about any RTV 'silicone' sealant.. most will hold up to ~3-400*, just not direct flame.

Greg L.


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Post Mon. Sep. 01, 2008 9:33 am

Rutland has a 800* black latex sealant. "Seal It Right". Not an adhesive just a sealant.

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218Bee
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Post Mon. Sep. 01, 2008 11:31 am

Code, here, is a minimum of 3 zip screws.

bksaun
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Post Mon. Sep. 01, 2008 12:19 pm

I have 3 screws and aluminum duct tape over the seam, as the tape heats up it sticks tight and prevent dust from coming out.

Bk

syncmaster
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Post Mon. Sep. 01, 2008 12:49 pm

CapeCoaler wrote:Rutland has a 800* black latex sealant. "Seal It Right". Not an adhesive just a sealant.
Thanks for the info, I did a search and will post it below.
I think that is excatly what I need..... just seal.... no adhesive.

here is a big tube of it :
http://www.woodlanddirect.com/Chimney/Cements-Mor ... l-It-Right

here is a small tube of it ;
http://www.builderdepot.com/seo/RUTLANDFIRECLAYCO ... TUBE.ihtml


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coalkirk
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Post Mon. Sep. 01, 2008 12:52 pm

The screws are essential, you don't need to goop except maybe wher ethe pipe connects to the boilers thimble.

syncmaster
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Post Mon. Sep. 01, 2008 1:21 pm

Yes, I will put the screws in also, I know most people don't seal the black pipe but I want to seal mine.

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Post Mon. Sep. 01, 2008 1:59 pm

Home Depot
Ace
Should be $12- 16
Nice for sealing minor gaps and if you pull pipe for cleaning it comes apart.

syncmaster
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Post Mon. Sep. 01, 2008 5:19 pm

coalkirk wrote:The screws are essential, you don't need to goop except maybe wher ethe pipe connects to the boilers thimble.
looking at the light coming thru where the pipe seam is, no amount of screws are going to seal that.

This black pipe is very thick and the seam is very thick putting a screw on each side of that seam will not close up that hole.

if you have a very tall chimney with extra draft, then you can afford to lose a little draft thru the poorly fitting chimney pipes.

I have a ranch with the minimum height chimney so I don't have any extra draft that I can afford to lose.

CapeCoaler
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Post Mon. Sep. 01, 2008 9:42 pm

Spin that Tee so the cap is down, you will get better clearance, have some room for fly ash be able to empty the ash out easily.

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