Manometer Suggestions
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- New Member
- Posts: 10
- Joined: Tue. Oct. 27, 2020 7:23 pm
- Hot Air Coal Stoker Stove: Alaskan Kast Console II
- Coal Size/Type: Rice
So I really don't like to admit this as I know we should've done this long ago, but we have never used a manometer to check our flu pressure and properly set our pressure dampener.
I always keep good CO detectors all around the house to keep track of any backdraft of carbon monoxide. However, I want to have a proper setup moving forward to make things easier for us.
I am curious as to what type of manometer I should get? I have seen digital and fluid filled ones, and I am not sure what would be best for coal stoves. Also would love insight on how to use the manometer and calibrate my flu dampener (Type "RC" calibrated draft control).
Burning with a Kast Console 3 top vent. Thank you in advance for any help!
I always keep good CO detectors all around the house to keep track of any backdraft of carbon monoxide. However, I want to have a proper setup moving forward to make things easier for us.
I am curious as to what type of manometer I should get? I have seen digital and fluid filled ones, and I am not sure what would be best for coal stoves. Also would love insight on how to use the manometer and calibrate my flu dampener (Type "RC" calibrated draft control).
Burning with a Kast Console 3 top vent. Thank you in advance for any help!
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- Member
- Posts: 67
- Joined: Sun. Sep. 17, 2017 8:43 pm
- Hot Air Coal Stoker Stove: Alaskan Stoker II
- Coal Size/Type: Rice
- Other Heating: Oil
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- Member
- Posts: 808
- Joined: Sat. Dec. 10, 2011 4:07 pm
- Location: Berks County
- Hand Fed Coal Stove: DS Machine 1400 WH ciculator; 1880's small cannon in reserve
- Coal Size/Type: Nut
- Other Heating: small New Yorker oil fired boiler; mostly used for domestic HW
Many good threads on manometers and their set up on these forums over the years. I like the magnahelic guage type.
- Retro_Origin
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- Location: Schuylkill county
- Stoker Coal Boiler: 1957 Axeman Anderson 130
- Coal Size/Type: Buckwheat / Pea
Second that. If you can afford it, buy one with a dial rather than a fluid that can leak everywhere. My preference but also my mistake not mounting my dwyer right away. Then it fell over.
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- Joined: Wed. Jan. 18, 2017 11:30 pm
- Location: swOH near a little town where the homes are mobile and the cars aren’t
- Hand Fed Coal Stove: Hitzer 354
- Coal Size/Type: nut coal
- Other Heating: electric, wood, oil
Mine is harded mounted off to the side of the stove. Mounted onto a piece of sheet metal with the two tiny through bolts and nuts, lightly hand tightened to the sheet metal. The sheet metal is the same height as the height of the manometer, but the sheet metal is about 2-3 inches wider than the manometer which allowed me to put a 90 degree bend into the sheet metal. I have some wood trim running along the side of my hearth wall and so I drilled two holes into that 90 degree bend and then attached the sheet metal to the wood, adjusted the manometer for level in both directions, zeroed the manometer, hooked it up , and done. It's not hard mounted. Never has leaked.
Did notice some strange readings this, my 4th season of burning coal and using my manometer. My readings were unusually low compared to what I was used to seeing. Knowing that my inside the home chimney usually has a draft even with a cold stove (no fire in it's belly), it took me a day or three to realize why the manometer was reading so low, pert near zero, yet my draft seemed fine when checking smoke outside after a reload. Then it hit me...the fluid is low (evaporated).
Removed from wall. Sure enough, it was low on fluid. Rezeroed the dial to the center so I had plenty of adjustment after re-installing, filled with fluid. Woops, over full. Pipe cleaners to the rescue. Stick pipe cleaner down fluid fill hole until fluid is reading 0, then re-installed the unit back on the wall. Reset for level, checked fluid for 0 again, it was out just a smidge, so I adjusted dial a smidge, tightened the screws, and back in business. Done! Easy fix, really.
With a magnahelic you wouldn't have to mess with it all except for the initial mounting, but after that it should remain calibrated. So, yes, the magnahelic is easier because it should be once and done. However, for the difference in price at the time I bought mine I am real happy with the Dwyer Mark II model 25.
- Lightning
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- Location: Olean, NY
- Stoker Coal Boiler: Modified AA 130
- Coal Size/Type: Pea Size - Anthracite
Even with the magnehelic I check it for zero once a month. But it's nice not to fiddle with fluid. Although I really do like the fluid type. Personally I'd be happy with either one 