Barometric damper help

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Commish1988
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Post by Commish1988 » Sun. Dec. 11, 2022 12:02 pm

I have barometric damper set at -.04. Has been this way since I bought the house. And it is within Alaska’s recommended setting. I installed a manometer and with a full fire right at -.05 or .06.
Temps are upper 30’s and kind of drizzling today.
Fire bricks are almost touching. I keep it fire poker point width open. So maybe about 1/4” opening.

I have never had any issues, just want to fully understand.

Is this normal?

Thank you!

 
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Post by lzaharis » Sun. Dec. 11, 2022 6:59 pm

A barometric damper is designed to operate (swing open) when the stoker stove,
furnace or boiler has stopped firing to prevent excess air entering the fire box by
allowing air to bypass the fire box and go through the damper and up the stove pipe
and out of the chimney.

Where is your manometer probe located; over the fire or past the flue breech?

Is your chimney equipped with a chimney cap??

 
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WNY
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Post by WNY » Mon. Dec. 12, 2022 6:30 pm

assuming you are adjusting the weight so it just starts to open at .04.

it will increase draft with more burning and the colder outside. Mine will run WIDE open when its fully burning and under 20 outside, and still draws .06 or so on the gauge. I can't get it any lower unless I put a larger baro damper on it.

 
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Post by coaledsweat » Tue. Dec. 13, 2022 7:24 am

Just remember, if you burn any wood, creosote will deposit on the back 9f the baro blade and skew your settings. Best to have a manometer to check and adjust it. It will need to he cleaned periodically if so.

 
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tcalo
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Post by tcalo » Tue. Dec. 13, 2022 8:29 am

coaledsweat wrote:
Tue. Dec. 13, 2022 7:24 am
Just remember, if you burn any wood, creosote will deposit on the back 9f the baro blade and skew your settings. Best to have a manometer to check and adjust it. It will need to he cleaned periodically if so.
Same with burning coal!! I’ve had fly ash accumulate on the back of my baro door.


 
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mozz
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Post by mozz » Tue. Dec. 13, 2022 1:07 pm

I would never trust any markings on a baro to use for a setting. Get a manometer or magnehelic.

 
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Post by Greenleaf » Thu. Jan. 25, 2024 1:18 pm

I've never had to use the barometric damper. Its along for the ride. Unfortunately, a "snow storm" prevented delivering my magnehelic prior to that last deep freeze with high winds in January this year ( 2024)

I control my draft with the MPD quite effectively. Extremely useful.

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Post by fethiye » Fri. Jan. 26, 2024 3:02 am

Thanks for information

 
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Post by Pittstove » Sun. Jan. 28, 2024 6:21 pm

Greenleaf wrote:
Thu. Jan. 25, 2024 1:18 pm
I've never had to use the barometric damper. Its along for the ride. Unfortunately, a "snow storm" prevented delivering my magnehelic prior to that last deep freeze with high winds in January this year ( 2024)

I control my draft with the MPD quite effectively. Extremely useful.
[/hello......where do u have the intake plugged into?quote]

 
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Post by Greenleaf » Sun. Jan. 28, 2024 6:31 pm

Pittstove wrote:
Sun. Jan. 28, 2024 6:21 pm
You are asking me?
If so,,,,, its in the black pipe/connector pipe. At the stove exit ( connector collar)
So maybe 6 inches from the actual stove exit. The manual damper is next in line following the (smoke) path and then the barometric damper assembly.


 
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Post by Pittstove » Tue. Jan. 30, 2024 10:36 am

thank u green...is there a set rule in your opinion of the order concerning a baro and a mpd?....i have the baro first towards the stove then the mpd on the flue side...

 
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Post by Greenleaf » Tue. Jan. 30, 2024 10:54 am

You may address me as Mr. Leaf.
Yeah......I know I've been informed it's the manual damper nearest the stove's exit. The barometric is then beyond that.
The manometer pick up is the closest to the exit, prior to anything.
So my opinion is that there is in fact a hard rule on this, because that's what I've been told.
I haven't experiment w/a reverse order. Not sure how that would work out. I simply researched everything long prior to assembly and/or reading the directions from the manufacturer user manual.

Someone much more knowledgeable than myself with a PhD in chimney draft ergonomics would know as to the why.......
Hope it helps! Lemme know!

 
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Post by Lightning » Tue. Jan. 30, 2024 5:27 pm

I think most people are "afraid" that if the baro is between the stove and MPD then flue gas will get backed up and ooze out of the baro. Just make sure you have working carbon monoxide alarms.

 
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Post by Retro_Origin » Wed. Jan. 31, 2024 5:57 pm

mozz wrote:
Tue. Dec. 13, 2022 1:07 pm
I would never trust any markings on a baro to use for a setting. Get a manometer or magnehelic.
Preach it!

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