Barometric damper help
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I have barometric damper set at -.04. Has been this way since I bought the house. And it is within Alaska’s recommended setting. I installed a manometer and with a full fire right at -.05 or .06.
Temps are upper 30’s and kind of drizzling today.
Fire bricks are almost touching. I keep it fire poker point width open. So maybe about 1/4” opening.
I have never had any issues, just want to fully understand.
Is this normal?
Thank you!
Temps are upper 30’s and kind of drizzling today.
Fire bricks are almost touching. I keep it fire poker point width open. So maybe about 1/4” opening.
I have never had any issues, just want to fully understand.
Is this normal?
Thank you!
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A barometric damper is designed to operate (swing open) when the stoker stove,
furnace or boiler has stopped firing to prevent excess air entering the fire box by
allowing air to bypass the fire box and go through the damper and up the stove pipe
and out of the chimney.
Where is your manometer probe located; over the fire or past the flue breech?
Is your chimney equipped with a chimney cap??
furnace or boiler has stopped firing to prevent excess air entering the fire box by
allowing air to bypass the fire box and go through the damper and up the stove pipe
and out of the chimney.
Where is your manometer probe located; over the fire or past the flue breech?
Is your chimney equipped with a chimney cap??
- WNY
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assuming you are adjusting the weight so it just starts to open at .04.
it will increase draft with more burning and the colder outside. Mine will run WIDE open when its fully burning and under 20 outside, and still draws .06 or so on the gauge. I can't get it any lower unless I put a larger baro damper on it.
it will increase draft with more burning and the colder outside. Mine will run WIDE open when its fully burning and under 20 outside, and still draws .06 or so on the gauge. I can't get it any lower unless I put a larger baro damper on it.
- coaledsweat
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Just remember, if you burn any wood, creosote will deposit on the back 9f the baro blade and skew your settings. Best to have a manometer to check and adjust it. It will need to he cleaned periodically if so.
- tcalo
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Same with burning coal!! I’ve had fly ash accumulate on the back of my baro door.coaledsweat wrote: ↑Tue. Dec. 13, 2022 7:24 amJust remember, if you burn any wood, creosote will deposit on the back 9f the baro blade and skew your settings. Best to have a manometer to check and adjust it. It will need to he cleaned periodically if so.
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I've never had to use the barometric damper. Its along for the ride. Unfortunately, a "snow storm" prevented delivering my magnehelic prior to that last deep freeze with high winds in January this year ( 2024)
I control my draft with the MPD quite effectively. Extremely useful.
I control my draft with the MPD quite effectively. Extremely useful.
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Thanks for information
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Greenleaf wrote: ↑Thu. Jan. 25, 2024 1:18 pmI've never had to use the barometric damper. Its along for the ride. Unfortunately, a "snow storm" prevented delivering my magnehelic prior to that last deep freeze with high winds in January this year ( 2024)
I control my draft with the MPD quite effectively. Extremely useful.
[/hello......where do u have the intake plugged into?quote]
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You may address me as Mr. Leaf.
Yeah......I know I've been informed it's the manual damper nearest the stove's exit. The barometric is then beyond that.
The manometer pick up is the closest to the exit, prior to anything.
So my opinion is that there is in fact a hard rule on this, because that's what I've been told.
I haven't experiment w/a reverse order. Not sure how that would work out. I simply researched everything long prior to assembly and/or reading the directions from the manufacturer user manual.
Someone much more knowledgeable than myself with a PhD in chimney draft ergonomics would know as to the why.......
Hope it helps! Lemme know!
Yeah......I know I've been informed it's the manual damper nearest the stove's exit. The barometric is then beyond that.
The manometer pick up is the closest to the exit, prior to anything.
So my opinion is that there is in fact a hard rule on this, because that's what I've been told.
I haven't experiment w/a reverse order. Not sure how that would work out. I simply researched everything long prior to assembly and/or reading the directions from the manufacturer user manual.
Someone much more knowledgeable than myself with a PhD in chimney draft ergonomics would know as to the why.......
Hope it helps! Lemme know!
- Lightning
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I think most people are "afraid" that if the baro is between the stove and MPD then flue gas will get backed up and ooze out of the baro. Just make sure you have working carbon monoxide alarms.
- Retro_Origin
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