Manometer install parts list

 
Hoytman
Member
Posts: 6077
Joined: Wed. Jan. 18, 2017 11:30 pm
Location: swOH near a little town where the homes are mobile and the cars aren’t
Hand Fed Coal Stove: Hitzer 354
Coal Size/Type: nut coal
Other Heating: electric, wood, oil

Post by Hoytman » Fri. Jan. 15, 2021 2:07 pm

McGiever wrote:
Fri. Jan. 15, 2021 10:50 am
A 6in. round tile flue may not be optimal for burning wood...don’t tie your hands if you find it a must to always be able to burn wood.
If you want the best...you’ll have to pick one or the other.
I'm curious as to how you think it may not be optimal for burning wood? Are you thinking bigger? Insulated clay liner, insulated metal liner, bigger, etc.?

Honestly Larry, at this point it seems like my chimney is doing just fine. I was just wanting to try what I could to see if I could improve the draft which might enable me to run my stove at an even lower temperature in above 50F+ weather.

As Steve said though, I'm seeing the difference between what a coal stove needs and what a wood stove will need. It's almost for burning coal that there may be a point of no return...err...um...a point where adding height may not improve the draft but rather may impede it. I don't know. Does that make any sense? Seems if a chimney is too large it may draft up to a given height but past that the chimney could remain too cold? See what I'm thinking? I have no idea if I am wrong and I could be way off.

Burning wood, then I can see where adding more height may indeed be more beneficial because exhaust temps are so much higher. The tricky part for me is finding the middle ground for either fuel.

In the past, with an older pre-epa stove there was some smoke roll back into the room even when the chimney was hot. However, that could have simply been cause by a faulty smoke deflector and is why I removed the stove for repairs and to try coal.

Of course, to repair my broken liners, adding two more additional feet shouldn't hurt anything. I have a few choices. I can tear it out and re-line with clay myself which is the cheapest way possible to repair this chimney or, I can reline with metal, or I can add 2-4 feet and leave the cracked liners in place and have the chimney coated with Heatshield to fill all gaps and cracks and which also insulates it.

 
User avatar
freetown fred
Member
Posts: 30298
Joined: Thu. Dec. 31, 2009 12:33 pm
Location: Freetown,NY 13803
Hand Fed Coal Stove: HITZER 50-93
Coal Size/Type: BLASCHAK Nut

Post by freetown fred » Fri. Jan. 15, 2021 3:32 pm

Still tryin to re-invent the wheel Billy?????????????????? LOL


 
LouSee
Member
Posts: 80
Joined: Tue. Jul. 30, 2013 12:07 am
Location: scranton-ish...
Stoker Coal Boiler: '57 EFM DF'd 520
Hot Air Coal Stoker Stove: LL Independance
Coal Size/Type: Buck & Rice

Post by LouSee » Fri. Jan. 15, 2021 7:39 pm

Hoytman wrote:
Sun. Dec. 27, 2020 5:11 pm
...Going to keep looking for a 5”-6” long 1/8” drill...
rather than finding an aircraft drill in 1/8, which are really bendy and unwieldy... get a set of impact driver drill bits (with the hex end on them) on them and a hex bit extension. As cheap as under $10 each at harbor freight.

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