Thermosiphon Question for Coil

This forum is for common products and questions such as chimney installations, CO detectors, coal bin designs and a variety of other general topics that do not fit into the other forums.
User avatar
efo141
Member
Posts: 505
Joined: Thu. Jun. 05, 2008 8:25 pm
Stove/Furnace Make: New Yorker/Keystoker
Stove/Furnace Model: WC90-----/Kaa-2
Location: Western MA

Post Sun. Aug. 17, 2008 3:42 pm

efo141 wrote:Is there a way of using the aquastat in my elect. water heater to control a bronze pump? So instead of the elect elements it would control a pump that would cicul. water through my coal boiler coil
Can anyone answer this question?
Ed

User avatar
traderfjp
Member
Posts: 1800
Joined: Wed. Apr. 19, 2006 10:32 pm
Stove/Furnace Make: Alaska
Stove/Furnace Model: Channing 3
Location: New York

Post Sun. Aug. 17, 2008 3:55 pm

You're going to want water circulating through the coils at all times. If not the water will boil in the coil and open up the PRV. You're better off putting in a mixing valve to assure that no one gets scalded.
Disclaimer: I'm not an expert in any coal or plumbing related field. I only post my own experiences, research and common sense. If you choose to use any of the information in this post or any other post you do so at your own risk.

User avatar
efo141
Member
Posts: 505
Joined: Thu. Jun. 05, 2008 8:25 pm
Stove/Furnace Make: New Yorker/Keystoker
Stove/Furnace Model: WC90-----/Kaa-2
Location: Western MA

Post Sun. Aug. 17, 2008 10:14 pm

I will have a Keystoker kaa2 boiler. I don't think the water in the coil should be any hotter than the water in the boiler. I think they have a seperate aquastat for a over heat dump zone that will be hooked to a hanging heater or my hot water heater. I wanted to know if I could wire the aquastat in the water heater to a pump and circul the water through the water heater from the coil on the Keystoker using the PRV and the drain valve. Any info would be great Thanks
Ed
Ed

User avatar
Sting
Member
Posts: 2970
Joined: Mon. Feb. 25, 2008 4:24 pm
Other Heating: OBSO Lennox Pulse "Air Scorcher" burning NG
Location: Lower Fox Valley = Wisconsin

Post Mon. Aug. 18, 2008 3:18 pm

traderfjp wrote:You're going to want water circulating through the coils at all times. If not the water will boil in the coil and open up the PRV. You're better off putting in a mixing valve to assure that no one gets scalded.
If the coil is in a home heating appliance running at below the boiling point of the pressure in the system -- how would the water in the coil boil at city water pressure :?:
When you turn your boiler on -Does it return the favor?
I have finally lost my mind. Don't bother to return it. It wasn't working properly anyway!


User avatar
Sting
Member
Posts: 2970
Joined: Mon. Feb. 25, 2008 4:24 pm
Other Heating: OBSO Lennox Pulse "Air Scorcher" burning NG
Location: Lower Fox Valley = Wisconsin

Post Mon. Aug. 18, 2008 3:22 pm

efo141 wrote:
efo141 wrote:Is there a way of using the aquastat in my elect. water heater to control a bronze pump? So instead of the elect elements it would control a pump that would cicul. water through my coal boiler coil
Can anyone answer this question?
sure!

Clamp on a surface contact Honeywell control to the output of you current domestic hot water heater - wire it to close on temperature drop and open when it reaches 125 degrees - code set for domestic hot water out. then you won't need an anti scald valve and you won't need to change the PRV and the heater will run as it always did if you don't burn coal in the off season.

Pictures??? I posted some someplace of this! PM me if you want a copy! pump from the boiler coil into the bottom of the hot water heater and from the top (port out) of the tank back to the boiler DHW leg and thats your loop. :idea:

Check back to page one of this thread -- its already there!
When you turn your boiler on -Does it return the favor?
I have finally lost my mind. Don't bother to return it. It wasn't working properly anyway!

User avatar
traderfjp
Member
Posts: 1800
Joined: Wed. Apr. 19, 2006 10:32 pm
Stove/Furnace Make: Alaska
Stove/Furnace Model: Channing 3
Location: New York

Post Mon. Aug. 18, 2008 3:49 pm

I read it wrong. I thought he was running the water through coils in a coal stove and then into a water heater. My mistake.
Disclaimer: I'm not an expert in any coal or plumbing related field. I only post my own experiences, research and common sense. If you choose to use any of the information in this post or any other post you do so at your own risk.

BIG BEAM
Member
Posts: 723
Joined: Fri. Jan. 25, 2008 9:34 am
Stove/Furnace Make: USS Hot blast
Stove/Furnace Model: 1557M
Location: upstate NY

Post Mon. Aug. 18, 2008 8:49 pm

The first pic is the correct way to do it.Keep in mind that most tankless coils have a flow restrictor built into them.This should be drilled out as large as posible for flow reasons.Do a search for range boilers and you will see how it was done years ago off of a kitchen stove.I built one years ago in a wood stove and piped it up like the first pic.Worked like a charm.I don't know how big your HW tank is but I would install a gate valve in the loop.The coil I made would heat up a 30 gal.uninsulated tank in about 1 hr. With a insulated tank you WILL have to slow it down a little.
DON

BTW keep the feed line to the relief valve slanting up slightly and the return line from the boiler drain slanting slightly up to the coil.You may be able to keep the gate valve open full bacause of the standby loss in an oil fired water heater.If you run the boiler at 180F the tank will also get that hot so a mixing valve will be needed to drop that.I didn't use a mixing valve in my system,you can mix at the faucet.

BIG BEAM
Member
Posts: 723
Joined: Fri. Jan. 25, 2008 9:34 am
Stove/Furnace Make: USS Hot blast
Stove/Furnace Model: 1557M
Location: upstate NY

Post Mon. Aug. 18, 2008 10:17 pm

One more thing I forgot.You will need unions on the coil as close as posible to the boiler.When you refill the water heater you will need to crack the union that feeds hot water to the top of the tank to purge any air that is in the coil.there will be no presure there because you will open a hot water faucet when filling the tank to let the air out as it fills.crack the union when the tank is about 3/4 full
IF YOU DON'T GET ALL THE AIR OUT OF THE COIL IT WILL NOT SIPHON.
DON


User avatar
Sting
Member
Posts: 2970
Joined: Mon. Feb. 25, 2008 4:24 pm
Other Heating: OBSO Lennox Pulse "Air Scorcher" burning NG
Location: Lower Fox Valley = Wisconsin

Post Mon. Aug. 18, 2008 10:40 pm

Pumping eliminates all that drama!
When you turn your boiler on -Does it return the favor?
I have finally lost my mind. Don't bother to return it. It wasn't working properly anyway!

BIG BEAM
Member
Posts: 723
Joined: Fri. Jan. 25, 2008 9:34 am
Stove/Furnace Make: USS Hot blast
Stove/Furnace Model: 1557M
Location: upstate NY

Post Tue. Aug. 19, 2008 8:59 am

Thermosiphon= no maintainance, no electric
maybe acid out the coil every 10 or 20 years!
DON

TimV
Member
Posts: 312
Joined: Wed. Dec. 26, 2007 10:06 pm
Hand Fed Coal Stove: Older Ashley Cabinet ( pre US Stove gobble up)
Hand Fed Coal Furnace: Energy King 480 EK
Coal Size/Type: Warm weather smaller coal. Cold weather larger coal.
Other Heating: Oil Furnace Backup when repairs are needed
Stove/Furnace Make: Energy King Furnace
Stove/Furnace Model: 480 EK
Location: Glens Falls NY Area

Post Sun. Sep. 14, 2008 9:56 am

Hello
A while back I hooked a auxilary tank to my electric hot tank. The aux tank relied on thermo and was plumbed so tank bottom was about a foot off floor. Blowoff valve was on side hotwater entered top at a "T"on top. Street water water pushed "stove heated water" into electric tank giving me double storage . Being my exchanger was mounted outside of stove I never had blowoff work .
Water got to abround 150 so I used to crack open a faucet to keep it circulating thru both tanks.
The one thing I did discover is don't start with a used watertank like I did.....It only lasted a few weeks and sprang a big leak.
I now have a exchanger made from baseboard ready to mount on my new furnace It will also be external. I don't need fast recovery because of the added storage using 2 tanks.
There is a lot of info on a site called "Field lines" or "Other power " dot com with wind solar and water etc.
Word of warning some on this site don't take kindly to coal burning....they think coal is still in the dark ages..Coal helped make this a great nation.

Post Reply

Return to “Coal Bins, Chimneys, CO Detectors & Thermostats”