Can I Check Draft With Manometer During Summer?

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jimbo
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Post by jimbo » Sun. Jul. 27, 2008 3:11 pm

Does any one have any manometer numbers for a draft during the summer months?
I know that the draft is poor during summer and will increase during the colder weather. I am new to coal and would like to check the draft before the heat season.
I have used the clay tile lined chimney to burn wood years ago.
My old furnace would take a little bit to get the draft to take off if chimney had gotten cold I would light a few hunks of paper and stuff in the clean out to get draft to start once chimney was warm there were never any issues. Maybe some of you guys that have a manometer hooked up could give us new guys some number for reference.
Jim

 
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Blackdiamonddoug
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Post by Blackdiamonddoug » Tue. Jul. 29, 2008 11:07 pm

Hi
Just zero out your manometer and put it in the stove or pipe.
If it more or less than zero you have draft.
Depending which side is your reference point.
Your manometer should to be able to read o.o1" WC .

BDD

 
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e.alleg
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Post by e.alleg » Tue. Jul. 29, 2008 11:23 pm

I have my manometer hooked up but it is useless in the summer. It's like .02 most of the time as the stoker only runs a few minutes at a time. The baro is almost always closed in the summer, when I'm doing laundry and the boiler is stoking to make water it opens up some but it's really meaningless. You want to use the manometer to set your barometric damper when it's cold out and the stove is cranking and the chimney is hot, trying to set the baro in the summer won't work.


 
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Highlander
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Post by Highlander » Thu. Jul. 31, 2008 9:32 pm

I burn all summer long to make hot water, my manometer is a Dwyer magnahelic unit, with a needle, and it reads .01" most of the time. I never smell coal gas so I know its drafting well enough.

 
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Adamiscold
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Post by Adamiscold » Fri. Aug. 01, 2008 1:24 pm

Highlander,
How high does your chimney go past your roof?

 
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jimbo
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Post by jimbo » Fri. Aug. 01, 2008 9:08 pm

I cant get up above roof peak due to lay out of chimney, chimney is at the eves and extends 4 foot past eves. The prevailing winds are from the west here and the chimney is on the south side of the house. Chimney is located approx in center of south wall and comes up through an unheated enclosed porch. I know it would be better to get it above the peak but I don't think I can due to it having to free stand for 10 or so feet unsupported. I know I can tie it back to the roof but don't realy want to mess up my steel roof.
Any suggestions would be welcomed.
I have thought of buying a draft inducer and installing in the pipe. Thought this may help with out having to put any more height on chimney.
Jimbo


 
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Highlander
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Post by Highlander » Fri. Aug. 01, 2008 11:01 pm

Highlander,
How high does your chimney go past your roof?
Adam, does this answer the question?

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Freddy
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Post by Freddy » Sat. Aug. 02, 2008 4:07 am

The top of the chimney does not have to go above the roof. The old rule of thumb is to have a minumum of ten feet from chimney top horizontally to the roof. Of course more is better.

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crazy4coal
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Post by crazy4coal » Sat. Aug. 02, 2008 6:23 am

I'm building a chimney now and the code here is 24" or more above that 10', same as it was 11 years ago when I built the first one. remember higher is better!

 
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Adamiscold
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Post by Adamiscold » Sat. Aug. 02, 2008 4:39 pm

Thanks Highlander. I see you have four sections of ss pipe and your house looks a little taller then ours, so that should be easy enough to figure out.

Freddy I'm looking at having ours setup pretty much like Highlanders with the chimney right near the peak of our roof. I'm just trying to see how far up I would need to go with it for a good draft that wont give me any issues later on down the road.

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