Chimney install
- tcalo
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We outgrew our current house and it looks like we'll be purchasing a larger one. I'm hoping to push the move in date closer to the spring. I have a lot of coal to burn and may need to work on the new set up. The new house happens to have a fire place with an exterior chimney on the East side of the house. I don't know much about fire places. As of now it has a wood stove installed in it. I poked around and it appears the damper and damper plate are missing. There is a metal plate in place with a round pipe coming out of it. The plate seems a bit on the small side so there is insulation covering the gaps on the right and left. I would like to redo the set up once we move in. Would it be best to run a liner from the stove to the cap? I've read that a mason chimney without a liner can cause draft issues. I'm running a base burner so the flue gas is already on the cool side. If I do run a liner do I use corrugated pipe (which I can see causing an issue with fly ash) or run hard pipe. If I run hard pipe can it be single wall?
- 2001Sierra
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If the chimney does not have a tile liner, you will most likely have to line it. The real probem is when the coal eats the stainless liner which is sure to happen within 10/15 years.
- tcalo
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I assume just replace it then, right? I have a ss chimney system now, going on 10 years. All good so far, but I have replaced my cap a few times.
- tcalo
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So if it’s tile lined then I shouldn’t have any issues? If I decide to replace that plate then how is it held in place? Is the original damper plate held in with mortar?
- McGiever
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For that BB and if that outside wall chimney has no offset, a quality SS 'Class A' which is already insulated, would work best. Some routine cleaning should keep it sound for many seasons.
Assuming a 12X12 clay liner accepts your size Class A.
Your BB stove pipe may not be low enough to go into the hearth/damper, then you'd need to cut-in a thimble higher up.
Assuming a 12X12 clay liner accepts your size Class A.
Your BB stove pipe may not be low enough to go into the hearth/damper, then you'd need to cut-in a thimble higher up.
- tcalo
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The hearth is raised. I’m think of placing the stove in front of the hearth which should give me the clearance. My only issue is those are hard wood floors. I have some 1” thick blue stone I was thinking of laying on the floor to protect the hardwood. It was used for my Chubby years ago. I’m thinking that should be enough protection. Thoughts?
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- tcalo
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- Baseburners & Antiques: Crawford 40
- Coal Size/Type: Nut/stove anthracite
I had a new back pipe made and vent straight out the top now. I can cut a hole low on the back pipe and put a collar there so it clears.
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Git some of that stove board boy! Then put the ‘40 on that piece of flagstone you spoke of, lower the breech and run it!!!
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When you remove the boat anchor, take a piece of poster board and make a template of the damper opening and cut one out of 20 ish gauge sheet. Then cut a 6 inch or so hole in it and cut in half vertically for easy installation.
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Even better to save valuable floor space... install a precast concrete mantle( or find a marble one on Craigslist etc and put the stove directly on the hearth.
That’s what I was planning until wifey spied the Baltimore
That’s what I was planning until wifey spied the Baltimore
- mntbugy
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Tom, you need to find a Baltimore insert, for in that hole. It's a trend now.