Using Existing Chimney

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boerboels
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Post by boerboels » Tue. Jul. 15, 2008 11:19 am

I have a L.L. hearth stove coming in November and am trying to get my fireplace piping ready. I recently removed a woodburning insert and noticed they had a piece of sheetmetal below the damper with an oval shaped hole. I'm going to replace this and my question is should I cut the hole on an angle or cut a circular 6" hole and use a 45 elbow to angle it past my fire shelf? I believe I only have to go about 16" past the shelf but of coarse I want it air tight! Also, it still has the damper frame made of steel intact above the piece of sheet metal. Should I remove it completely as it does affect my clearance for piping and it appears to be held by mortar? I know I will be using stainless steel piping and was wondering any preferred brands out there? This is my first time installing any type of a stove but my fireplace is in great shape, recently cleaned and the 8" clay flue is in great shape.

 
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LsFarm
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Post by LsFarm » Tue. Jul. 15, 2008 11:31 am

Leave the steel shelf in place, you don't want to mess with anything mortared into the brick. The oval is because a 6" pipe round will usually not fit through the steel opening.. the sheet of steel with the oval is what is most commonly used.. and it must be sealed, you don't want any coal fumes or CO backing down and getting into your room/house.

Hope this helps..

Greg L

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Post by boerboels » Tue. Jul. 15, 2008 1:55 pm

Thanks Greg, I thought the oval hole was due to the fact the pipe needed to be shaped that way to fit through the damper frame. My question would be how can I add pipe to the end that goes through the sheetmetal opening to extend it up far enough into the chimney?


 
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coaledsweat
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Post by coaledsweat » Tue. Jul. 15, 2008 2:00 pm

Often there is no more than 3-4' of pipe inside the chimney.

 
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Post by boerboels » Tue. Jul. 15, 2008 2:21 pm

I figured that and it's approximately 36" from the floor of my fireplace to the damper. The piece of sheetmetal will be right below the damper and I've been told I have to go about 14"--24" past the damper. My question is how do I make a tight connection to the pipe going through the oval opening in the sheetmetal to the pipe extending past the damper another 14"-24", since the end of the pipe going through this opening will be in the shape of an oval? :idea:

 
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coaledsweat
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Post by coaledsweat » Wed. Jul. 16, 2008 11:09 am

Take the round one with the seam side up and place pressure with your foot on it until it is oval shape you desire.


 
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Post by LsFarm » Wed. Jul. 16, 2008 11:22 am

If there is a wide gap around the pipe to the sheet metal with the oval, you can pack the gap with fiberglass insulation or make a fillet piece of metal with metal snips. Or get some of the putty-like furnace cement and putty the gap.

If you take a round 6" and oval it like coaledsweat said in the above post, I think you will find it fits pretty closely to the oval in the steel plate.

Greg L

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boerboels
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Post by boerboels » Wed. Jul. 16, 2008 1:09 pm

I don't believe there will be a gap where the pipe goes through the plate. When I took the old pipe out of it it was really snug. Being a woodburner, they just pushed the pipe through the plate about an 2--3". My concern is that if I shape the extending pipe in an oval shape to fit onto the end of the pipe going through the plate that it wouldn't seal properly or cause my stove not to draft properly...It sounds like the suggestion of sealing the pipes together with pipe cement will work though. Thanks to all of you as I really appreciate your responses and ideas...

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