Barometric Damper-Replacemet??

 
Kungur
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Post by Kungur » Thu. Jan. 25, 2018 8:45 pm

So do they ever go bad? How do you determine if it should be replaced?


 
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2001Sierra
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Post by 2001Sierra » Thu. Jan. 25, 2018 9:30 pm

I had one that just started to bind up. No matter what I did it would still hang up, just replaced it and all is well.

 
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tcalo
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Post by tcalo » Thu. Jan. 25, 2018 9:34 pm

Not much to go bad on it. Just a door and a weight.

 
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Lightning
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Post by Lightning » Thu. Jan. 25, 2018 9:50 pm

Just like the stove pipe, I think they last longer if you take care of them in the off season.

 
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CoalHeat
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Post by CoalHeat » Thu. Jan. 25, 2018 9:53 pm

Mostly they last for a long time. Sometimes they get a buildup of flyash on the flap, that's about it.

 
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Hambden Bob
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Post by Hambden Bob » Thu. Jan. 25, 2018 10:07 pm

Kung,much like some Poor Bastard stuck in a Nightmare Marriage,anything existing in a Hostile Environment will have a Certain Life Expectancy. Perhaps Your Baro has inhaled too much exhaust,and has seen one too many off seasons' exposed to humidity,and is getting tired of working. Replace it,and perhaps a small bronze or brass gun cleaning brush could be periodically used to clean the axles,as I call the pivot points,and any flyash cake-up on the exposed to the flu face side. As has been said,the off season,and high humidity loves to play hell on anything it can,especially if it's in a basement..... Good luck,and keep Us posted. You have an opportunity starting tomorrow,as another roller coaster thaw then refreeze session is upon Us.

 
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Uglysquirrel
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Post by Uglysquirrel » Sat. Jan. 27, 2018 1:09 pm

Classic....

" Much like some Poor Bastard stuck in a Nightmare Marriage,anything existing in a Hostile Environment will have a Certain Life Expectancy "


 
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Uglysquirrel
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Post by Uglysquirrel » Sat. Jan. 27, 2018 1:15 pm

Every so often I'll take a screwdriver grip end and lightly tap the baro flapper below the hinge point to liberate the fly ash that accumulates on the inside surface. Without doing this the baro does not open as much as it should due the ash's weight. The marvels of a screwdriver..

 
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Hambden Bob
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Post by Hambden Bob » Sat. Jan. 27, 2018 1:28 pm

Thanx alot,Ug ! I've been told that my sordid analogy's have the ability to etch the memory surface of the intended victim's brain.

In the end,when Baro Binding starts,and You just don't trust it,replace it.

 
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2001Sierra
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Post by 2001Sierra » Sat. Jan. 27, 2018 2:15 pm

Hambden Bob wrote:
Sat. Jan. 27, 2018 1:28 pm
In the end,when Baro Binding starts,and You just don't trust it,replace it.
My type M which is much heavier than the the RC and rated for coal just started binding up after time in the 22 gauge T it was installed in. The RC replacement which is lighter built especially the pivot points just plain works. Go figure :oops:

 
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lsayre
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Post by lsayre » Sat. Jan. 27, 2018 2:17 pm

2001Sierra wrote:
Sat. Jan. 27, 2018 2:15 pm
My type M which is much heavier than the the RC and rated for coal just started binding up after time in the 22 gauge T it was installed in. The RC replacement which is lighter built especially the pivot points just plain works. Go figure :oops:
This was my experience also.

 
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nepacoal
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Post by nepacoal » Sat. Jan. 27, 2018 4:15 pm

lsayre wrote:
Sat. Jan. 27, 2018 2:17 pm
This was my experience also.
+2... Loved the ease and precise adjustment of my type M but it also started binding / sticking. Switched back the the RC and have had no issues since.

 
rberq
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Post by rberq » Sat. Jan. 27, 2018 7:53 pm

The Field RC on my oil-fired boiler in the cellar is rusted like a 1953 Plymouth after 65 years of Maine road salt. Still swings freely and works fine.

 
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coalkirk
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Post by coalkirk » Sun. Jan. 28, 2018 10:20 am

nepacoal wrote:
Sat. Jan. 27, 2018 4:15 pm
+2... Loved the ease and precise adjustment of my type M but it also started binding / sticking. Switched back the the RC and have had no issues since.
+3 Went with an 8" RC on my EFM. I did like the precise adjustment of the type M but couldn't keep it operating freely over time.

 
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Sunny Boy
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Post by Sunny Boy » Mon. Jan. 29, 2018 7:52 am

I just got a chance to test the 8 inch Field Control baro on my 25 year old oil furnace.

I had to pour a new concrete thimble in a centrally located chimney in preparation for hooking up a coal stove. When I had a pipe in the new thimble, I capped it off and installed a mano to check if that chimney was going to be prone to back drafting with the baro. Nope, no back drafting ! With the furnace off and cold, the chimney is pulling .015 to .02 of draft with just the house heat surrounding it and whatever warm-ish basement air is warming the 8 feet of furnace pipe and leaking into the closed baro.

So, curious as to how well the baro still works, I fired up the oil burner to see how much draft that was pulling. Once it warmed up the chimney, the mano reading was a rock-steady .05. Went down and looked at where the weight was set on the baro's scale and it's centered over the .05 number. Not bad for 25 years and no maintenance ever to the baro, except to occasionally look to see if the butterfly plate moves when the furnace kicks on.

Paul


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