So I got a Dwyer Mark II

 
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Post by Kramer1782 » Fri. Nov. 24, 2017 3:44 pm

I have read in several posts about installing a manometer to understand what exactly is happening in the flue and with the draft. The model I have seen most commonly suggested was the Dwyer. Since there was some great discussion about the Dwyer in other posts but not one exclusively for installing one I thought I'd create one. I plan on installing it this weekend. If I recall from the previous discussions that I'll end up hooking my hose to the low pressure side and even though my gauge will be reading a positive pressure it is actually a negative reading. I have some soft copper tubing (since the rubber hose would not withstand the heat) and some compression fittings to complete the install. I plan on inserting the copper tube a few inches above the baro at approximately where the white sticker is in the picture, but should it be installed below the baro?

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Dwyer Mark II Model 25

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Post by Lightning » Fri. Nov. 24, 2017 4:26 pm

Yes, best case scenario is between the stove and baro. Instead of using the compression fittings, I would suggest just drilling a hole into the pipe the same size as the metal tubing so that it can be retracted easily. This way it's easy to check for any fly ash blockage of the probe, and to "zero" the manometer occasionally.

 
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Post by tcalo » Fri. Nov. 24, 2017 4:29 pm

Ideally it should be hooked up between the stove and any draft controls (baro, mpd). So it should go in this order: stove, mano, mpd, baro.

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Post by coaledsweat » Fri. Nov. 24, 2017 4:52 pm

I would avoid a permanent install. The device needs to be zeroed frequently and you can't do that installed. I use a small hole and a piece of curved brake line on the hose.

 
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Post by tcalo » Fri. Nov. 24, 2017 4:55 pm

coaledsweat wrote:
Fri. Nov. 24, 2017 4:52 pm
I would avoid a permanent install. The device needs to be zeroed frequently and you can't do that installed. I use a small hole and a piece of curved brake line on the hose.
I pull the rubber hose off the gauge side to zero it.

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Post by Benny » Fri. Nov. 24, 2017 5:30 pm

Where did you find the best price? Thinking of getting one

 
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Post by brandonh98 » Fri. Nov. 24, 2017 10:50 pm

Benny wrote:
Fri. Nov. 24, 2017 5:30 pm
Where did you find the best price? Thinking of getting one
EBay


 
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Post by lsayre » Sat. Nov. 25, 2017 6:27 am


 
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Post by WNY » Sat. Nov. 25, 2017 7:22 am

Just be careful filling it. it's REALLY touchy. only put a little bit of fluid in at a time. make sure you screw out the zero knob about 3-4 turn to adjust for Zero when filling it.

They can be found on ColePalmer, Ebay, Amazon, usually around $30-40 range. sometimes a little cheaper.

 
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Post by lsayre » Sat. Nov. 25, 2017 7:37 am

I have one that is calibrated in Pascals also, but I have not installed it anywhere yet. My boiler still has the one calibrated in inches.

The Pascal scale is far more intuitively useful for the draft range we generally target.

5 Pascals = 0.02" water column
10 Pascals = 0.04" water column (this is the target most seem to shoot for)
15 Pascals = 0.06" water column
20 Pascals = 0.08" water column
25 Pascals = 0.10" water column
etc...

It's model # is MARK II M-700PA. Sans for the scale markings it is otherwise identical in every way to the "standard" Dwyer Mark II.

 
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Post by windyhill4.2 » Sat. Nov. 25, 2017 8:23 am

WNY wrote:
Sat. Nov. 25, 2017 7:22 am
Just be careful filling it. it's REALLY touchy. only put a little bit of fluid in at a time. make sure you screw out the zero knob about 3-4 turn to adjust for Zero when filling it.

They can be found on ColePalmer, Ebay, Amazon, usually around $30-40 range. sometimes a little cheaper.
OR, buy a Magnehelic gauge instead... no liquid to mess with....easy

 
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Post by Kramer1782 » Sun. Nov. 26, 2017 11:04 pm

Got the unit installed today and it was pretty easy. I mounted and filled it per the included instructions and then installed the soft copper tubing. I inserted the tubing below the baro as tcalo suggested. I also opted to not have the permanent install into the flue pipe as coaledsweat suggested to see how I liked it for cleaning purposes. I was originally concerned about a lose connection with just inserting the tube into the pipe, thus the permanent connection. However there was a hole through the steel of the stove already that provided a sufficient mounting location and provided a secure fitting. Also filling the unit is touchy just as WNY suggested. I purchased my unit in amazon and it was about 40 bucks. Total install took about 15 minutes. I have not adjusted the baro since the install. When I fully opened the baro with my hand when the stove was on the draft dropped almost to 0. I plan on looking for a manual online for the Harman since I didn't get one with the house and attempt to determine what they reccomend my draft setting be at. When I first installed the baro when I replaced all the stove pipe I initially set it at 2 and started the stove up keeping a close eye on it. My Co detector went off and got up to 300 ppm before I got the windows open and some fans going. I then adjusted it to 6 and haven't had any Co readings since. I appreciate the guidance and the pictures they were helpful for my install. I'll post what the manual says my draft should be and if I need to make any adjustments. Also I look forward to any suggestions. Thanks.

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Installed soft copper tubing with baro above and facing the opposite direction.

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Copper tube to rubber hose compression fitting.

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Mounting the unit on the wall. Ensure it's level.

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Filling the unit with fluid.

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Zeroing the unit.

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0.04 with the stove running.

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Rubber hose gets installed on the low pressure side.

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Overview of the whole install.

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0.03 with the stove fans off.

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Current baro setting is at 6 so I'm assuming 0.06?

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Post by Kramer1782 » Sun. Nov. 26, 2017 11:49 pm

Manometer Install

I was browsing the site and discovering many other nuggets of great information. I came across this post from 2007 though I didn't see it when I searched for manometer or Dwyer in the site search function. Either way I thought I'd post it here as it's relevant to the conversation.

 
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Post by Lightning » Mon. Nov. 27, 2017 5:04 am

Kramer1782 wrote:
Sun. Nov. 26, 2017 11:04 pm
I was originally concerned about a lose connection with just inserting the tube into the pipe, thus the permanent connection.
The connection at the pipe doesn't need to be completely air tight. A hole just big enough for the probe to get thru is sufficient.

 
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Post by Lightning » Mon. Nov. 27, 2017 5:15 am

Kramer1782 wrote:
Sun. Nov. 26, 2017 11:04 pm
When I first installed the baro when I replaced all the stove pipe I initially set it at 2 and started the stove up keeping a close eye on it. My Co detector went off and got up to 300 ppm before I got the windows open and some fans going. I then adjusted it to 6 and haven't had any Co readings since.
Personally I don't think the draft failure and the baro set at -.02 are related. Maybe it was warm outside that day? Having the baro set at -.06 is a little bit high. The center of the weight corresponds with the value it's set at, like you have it.

Nice job with the install ;)


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