So I got a Dwyer Mark II

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hotblast1357
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Stoker Coal Boiler: 1984 Eshland S260 coal gun
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Location: Peasleeville NY

Post By: hotblast1357 » Mon. Nov. 27, 2017 5:26 am

That hole in the collar is actually there so you can screw the stove pipe to it to properly install it, hopefully you have it screwed to the stove, and each joint also screwed with at least 3 self tappers.

The weights never seem to really correspond with what the draft is actually reading, all the ones I’ve hooked up seem to be off, I think I’ve had one actually be set at what it was reading. .03-.05 is a good range to be at.

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coaledsweat
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Post By: coaledsweat » Mon. Nov. 27, 2017 9:06 am

There is no magic number, each install has its own variables. You need a thermometer on the stovepipe and one on the appliance and some time to see what makes it happy.

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CoalisCoolxWarm
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Stoker Coal Boiler: Keystoker KA-6
Hand Fed Coal Furnace: old Sears rebuilt, bituminous- offline as of winter 2014
Coal Size/Type: Anthracite Buckwheat
Other Heating: Oil Boiler
Location: Western PA

Post By: CoalisCoolxWarm » Mon. Nov. 27, 2017 9:16 am

Here's a pic of my install:
IMAG3045.jpg
Notice the short piece of tubing open to atmosphere. Per recommendations here, I used enough to let it curve down to avoid any dust, ashes, etc getting in it.

I have a Keystoker KA6 boiler, so there are two separate flexible brake lines- one to the hole in the door for over-the-fire draft and one for the stovepipe draft.

My door has a hole and my line runs through it, not fastened, and with enough give to open the door for inspection, but I have to remove it to open all the way or to reach into the fire to light, etc.
IMAG3061.jpg
Do you have a pic of your Baro install? I see where it is and a closeup of the weight, but not the way it sits in the pipe. The hinge has to be level horizontally. I had to add weights (washers) to mine to get the proper (very low .025) draft. The RC units have two different positions for the weight, depending if the baro is mounted in a horizontal or a vertical pipe. Did you check the baro for level and free from resistance?

A very important thing to remember: Your chimney draft is *related* to the fire, but should never *depend* on the fire. You may have a weaker draft when the fire is low/out, but you should always have a draft.

Glad you have a CO monitor! Too many people don't see the importance or priority :(

What does the manual tell you to set for your draft?

I think the Dwyer is an attractive piece of gear when installed with care like you have done :yes:

Visit DS Stoves

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CoalisCoolxWarm
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Stoker Coal Boiler: Keystoker KA-6
Hand Fed Coal Furnace: old Sears rebuilt, bituminous- offline as of winter 2014
Coal Size/Type: Anthracite Buckwheat
Other Heating: Oil Boiler
Location: Western PA

Post By: CoalisCoolxWarm » Mon. Nov. 27, 2017 9:19 am

FYI. Here is a link to a Harman Magnum manual online (PDF): http://pdfstream.manualsonline.com/b/b60ff950-b50 ... 1eefc6.pdf

According to the manual .04-.06 for the draft and you have to set BOTH the chimney draft and the over-the-fire draft. I've snipped the two instruction pages for reference.
Harman Magnum Draft1.png
Harman Magnum Draft2.png
Harman Magnum Draft3.png
Have you followed the procedure above to set the over the fire draft, too?
Last edited by CoalisCoolxWarm on Mon. Nov. 27, 2017 9:26 am, edited 2 times in total.

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Homesteader
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Post By: Homesteader » Mon. Nov. 27, 2017 9:22 am

On my Mark II the manual says to set the baro so the draft doesn.t exceed -.06. For me the baro install was easy and having an upper limit set around -.06 has helped greatly as my chimney can really suck when its cold and windy. The baro will bounce like hell in real windy conditions but the draft up through the fire is pretty steady so I can set my primary air were I want it and not have to fiddle with it during different drafting conditions. The stove also runs well when its warm and the draft drops to -02 without CO detectors going off.

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