Fields RC vs. Fields Type-M barometric draft control

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lsayre
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Post by lsayre » Sun. Oct. 15, 2017 6:51 pm

Having recently switched to an RC, after having used a Type-M for many years, I can't believe that the Type-M is considered to be superior, as the RC is simply better in every measurable way. Its ripping windy here today and my RC is nicely modulating to hold the system at 0.045" of water column draft. The Type-M was either fully closed or fully open (no level of modulation), and occasionally it stuck wide open. I could never fine tune the Type-M to the degree that the RC is tuneable. And the RC's weight indicator markings are not far off. I have my weight set smack between 0.04" and 0.06" (call it 0.05"), and I'm getting a consistent 0.045" as seen on the manometer.

 
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Lightning
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Post by Lightning » Sun. Oct. 15, 2017 7:03 pm

I haven't tried the Type M but I do like the RC. It's reliable and very effective at holding the draft pressure steady. I also agree that the scale is pretty accurate. That baro was a serious game changer for me. It's really amazing for what it does for being as simple as it is.

 
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nepacoal
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Post by nepacoal » Sun. Oct. 15, 2017 7:06 pm

I also retired my type m... It was regulating just fine but had started to stick closed every now and then. It is now in the spares locker. The RC that came with my boiler works just fine and has not stuck open or closed so far

 
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coaledsweat
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Post by coaledsweat » Sun. Oct. 15, 2017 7:23 pm

The M is designed to swing both ways unlike the R/C which has a stop to prevent it. The reason being is to survive puffbacks and that is why Field recommends it for coal. Either will work fine.

 
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Post by franco b » Sun. Oct. 15, 2017 7:51 pm

The RC has simpler but superior bearings; a round shaft on a flat surface. All friction is rolling.


 
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Post by 2001Sierra » Sun. Oct. 15, 2017 10:54 pm

I too ran a Type M for a few years. After time it started to bind in my 22 guage T it was installed in. I had to make some adjustments on the initial install to keep it from binding. I think the Type M is a heavier build but the binding over time was just plain frustrating, so I installed an RC.
Last edited by 2001Sierra on Sun. Oct. 15, 2017 11:02 pm, edited 1 time in total.

 
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McGiever
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Post by McGiever » Sun. Oct. 15, 2017 11:00 pm

I like my type M just fine. I use a 7" size M after the 6" stove pipe from a fan forced burner coming out of the 5" boiler breech.

Chimney>>7"Thimble>>7"type M>>reduced to 6" stove pipe>>reduced to 5" breech

 
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Post by fifthg » Mon. Oct. 16, 2017 8:35 am

How about those vogelzang dampers?I have never seen one in use.How do they work?I have seen 6” model advertised for just over $30.

 
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lsayre
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Post by lsayre » Mon. Oct. 16, 2017 8:40 am

fifthg wrote:
Mon. Oct. 16, 2017 8:35 am
How about those vogelzang dampers?I have never seen one in use.How do they work?I have seen 6” model advertised for just over $30.
$26.69 at Menards right now (on sale). It's a complete 'TEE' with damper. Can't speak for it, as I've never seen one in person. Only in pictures.

 
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lsayre
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Post by lsayre » Mon. Oct. 16, 2017 8:44 am

nepacoal wrote:
Sun. Oct. 15, 2017 7:06 pm
I also retired my type m... It was regulating just fine but had started to stick closed every now and then. It is now in the spares locker. The RC that came with my boiler works just fine and has not stuck open or closed so far
In retrospect, mine was likely sticking closed as well as sticking open. That seems to be a good reason for why I never saw mine partially open and actually modulating.


 
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lsayre
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Post by lsayre » Mon. Oct. 16, 2017 10:01 am

franco b wrote:
Sun. Oct. 15, 2017 7:51 pm
The RC has simpler but superior bearings; a round shaft on a flat surface. All friction is rolling.
This (bearings) is most likely where my Type M failed. It either got its bearing surfaces crudded up internally with fly ash, or they got messed up during one of the puffs I experienced early on when I had my ashing initiation temperature set at the factory default of 140 degrees. Back then my fire was riding so low in the fire tube that I got a few substantial puffs. To this day I can't imagine why AHS warns in its operation manual to never set this control below 120 degrees. I eventually eliminated puffs by setting mine at 105 degrees and tightening the hysteresis to only 5 degrees (from 10), and I've had it at 105 degrees with 5 degrees of hysteresis for several years now with no issues or puff-backs. YMMV

 
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Post by Lightning » Mon. Oct. 16, 2017 2:53 pm

I use my tooth brush to remove fly ash from the back side of the baro door every couple weeks. Fly ash build up will increase the draft slightly over time from what I've seen. It's not a huge increase, maybe -.005 to -.01 influence.

 
Dave 1234
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Post by Dave 1234 » Mon. Oct. 16, 2017 5:14 pm

Lightning wrote:
Mon. Oct. 16, 2017 2:53 pm
I use my tooth brush to remove fly ash from the back side of the baro door every couple weeks. Fly ash build up will increase the draft slightly over time from what I've seen. It's not a huge increase, maybe -.005 to -.01 influence.
Lee, that has to the best post I have seen sence we lost ''whistlenut''!

I could'nt read , I was laughing so much about the tooth brush.

Thank-you ! :clap: :clap:

 
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lsayre
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Post by lsayre » Mon. Oct. 16, 2017 5:24 pm

Some of us merely use "a" toothbrush, but Lee is clearly a coal burner among coal burners.

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