Puffback Blew Pipe Off of Chimney and Stove

? is: what's code ?

If the installer followed the code then that's that (for how many screws & tee etc.)

If he did not, then that can open up a can of worms for the installer.

Puff backs are to be expected .. that's why they have codes.

I generally do all work myself .... electrical, automotive, home improvement, etc. When I pay a person to do a job, he better do it right and if not, and it causes me issues, well ... he gets issues.

I've used adjustable elbows on a few different stoves over the course of around 50 yrs & never had one blow apart. Toss of the dice. Of course with DM's advice & your own thinking, stove installers will become like doctors liability wise.

freetown fred wrote:I've used adjustable elbows on a few different stoves

Fred, I think there is quite a range in quality and ruggedness when it comes to these things - depending on who makes it, and the cost. My EFM has adjustable elbows on it that I bought at Lowes, and they are nothing like the ones from Heat-Fab company, which are 22 gauge and very well made.

Heat-fab also makes seamless stove pipe, which is very rugged stuff.

https://www.ventingpipe.com/heatfab-stove-pipe/c983?Fnav-heatfab=undefined

Rob R. wrote:

freetown fred wrote:I've used adjustable elbows on a few different stoves

Fred, I think there is quite a range in quality and ruggedness when it comes to these things - depending on who makes it, and the cost. My EFM has adjustable elbows on it that I bought at Lowes, and they are nothing like the ones from Heat-Fab company, which are 22 gauge and very well made.

Heat-fab also makes seamless stove pipe, which is very rugged stuff.

https://www.ventingpipe.com/heatfab-stove-pipe/c983?Fnav-heatfab=undefined

I used the Heatfab 22 gauge pipe on my EFM install. It is tough stuff. Looks like it would outlast me.

coalkirk wrote:

Rob R. wrote: Fred, I think there is quite a range in quality and ruggedness when it comes to these things - depending on who makes it, and the cost. My EFM has adjustable elbows on it that I bought at Lowes, and they are nothing like the ones from Heat-Fab company, which are 22 gauge and very well made.

Heat-fab also makes seamless stove pipe, which is very rugged stuff.

https://www.ventingpipe.com/heatfab-stove-pipe/c983?Fnav-heatfab=undefined

I used the Heatfab 22 gauge pipe on my EFM install. It is tough stuff. Looks like it would outlast me.

That's what I have also!

I get all my pipe & things at HEPS. Never really looked at the box store variety's. Of course HEPS is only 1/2 hr away in Cortland.

If I have taken anything from this (aside from the classic advice to use 3 screws per connection) it is to avoid the multi-angle rotating "flex" elbows at all cost. I also try to stay away from flue pipe which comes as a flat sheet and needs to be rolled and snapped together.

Again, never had a problem with any of that. No need to unnecessarily scare people for no reason. This post is about a freak accident. Nothing more, nothing less. For a lot of us it's about$$$ I'm not talkin about cheap crap, but the price difference between good 22 ga. pipe & acc. & the-per-say the heat-fab brand is significant.

It's like anything else, ya git what ya pay for. You can get cheap pipe, abuse it and replace it every two years OR get the good stuff and take care of it and it will be safer and last a long time.

Now I am going to be scared every time I fill my stove completely full,close the door & walk away.

Never had a puff back in 3 heating seasons & I have the adjustable junk elbows & my pipe is not chained to the chimney

I guess Crane put all those over fire air holes in this 404 stove for a reason.

If I should ever have this same scenario,i would just open my windows,stick the pipe in the thimble,use some sheet metal & screws to fasten busted elbow,use hi-temp tape on the repaired joint,make sure settings on stove are correct & fire is where it should be,close all the windows & go to sleep.

After reading about the adjustable elbows,it is very likely that better elbows & pipe will be a future purchase for me.

I was torn.... an adjustable elbow for better flow, or a T for easier cleaning. My Axeman Anderson stoker blows the exhaust out and I wanted better flow to keep that air moving. So, I went with an adjustable and put a strap on it. (As some of you know I had some very impressive explosions during the first year.)

Freddy wrote:I was torn.... an adjustable elbow for better flow, or a T for easier cleaning. My Axeman Anderson stoker blows the exhaust out and I wanted better flow to keep that air moving. So, I went with an adjustable and put a strap on it. (As some of you know I had some very impressive explosions during the first year.)

What? No attachment via duct tape?

Ive always used cheapy adjustable elbows, although I did upgrade to better quality ones on my Chubby and after reading this I'll redo the other stove next year as it will be time to replace them anyway. I have some real funky angles with my one stove to make it fit so I cant use fixed angles.

Looks good Coalheat.

It's not astetically pleasing having the baro up top like that, but by removing the baro the horizontal run can be easily vacuumed of flyash, and the bottom tee end cap makes cleaning the accumulation behind the stove's baffle very easy as well.