Draft Inducer and Mounting It

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Rick 386
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Post Sun. Mar. 05, 2017 3:29 pm

So with the replumbing of my AA 260, it has become so much more efficient. So efficient that it does not run as much as it used to in these up and down temps. Which now leads to insufficient draft. Discovered that first off the old SS flue pipe had developed pinholes. Probably due to it sitting idle for over 1 year.

So I just replaced the flue pipe with new Olympia Ventis pipe. But with the AA sitting idle for longer periods we are experiencing some CO in the basement. There is now a cat living in the basement so I am hearing some static about the levels of CO.

So I ordered a Tjerlund draft inducer Model DJ-3 since it was the cheapest model on Amazon.Then come to find that most use Model AD-1. Could the model DJ-3 be used on the AA ?? If so I will install it and get a speed controller for the motor or I will order the AD-1 later today after possibly getting some feedback here. Big question is that they recommend installing the draft inducer on the bottom side of any horizontal pipe. Since we all know about fly ash settling in horizontal pipes, will that affect the draft inducer ???

Rick


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Lightning
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Post Sun. Mar. 05, 2017 4:27 pm

My assumption for installing it on the bottom is so heat from the pipe won't have as much effect on it. I had mine mounted more to the side so fly ash couldn't settle in it as much.

The motor on the AD-1 used to get really hot just from running. Also, it ran too fast on its lowest setting so I got into it and turned it down even more. Some have reported that the motor fails every so often although mine didn't. But I didn't use it very much either.

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Lightning
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Post Sun. Mar. 05, 2017 4:35 pm

I've since solved my draft failure issues by use of secondary air and I don't have the AD 1 anymore. I know it sounds counter intuitive but it's possible the same could work for you. Is there anyway you could let any extra air flow into the fire chamber? Like thru a fire view door or such? Or possibly mounting a spinner on your ash clean out door.

The science behind it is that the extra heated air mass keeps the draft flowing, and it don't take very much. You would need it on warm days when your appliance doesn't fire much and it would save you the fiddling with a draft inducer.

It's worth a try....

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freetown fred
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Post Sun. Mar. 05, 2017 4:42 pm

Lee--"it DOESN'T take very much--NOT DON"T Good Lord man!!!!!!! ;)

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Lightning
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Post Sun. Mar. 05, 2017 4:49 pm

freetown fred wrote:Lee--"it DOESN'T take very much--NOT DON"T Good Lord man!!!!!!! ;)
What? You doesn't approve of my hillbilly Dutch mountain slang?

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CoalHeat
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Post Sun. Mar. 05, 2017 5:37 pm

I installed my draft inducer on the bottom of the pipe as instructed, haven't had any issues due to flyash yet. I have it on a speed controller, runs about 1/4 speed. The motor was getting very hot. I stuck a piece of aluminum flex duct (dryer duct) over the end of the motor and secured it with aluminum tape. Connected the duct to an old Braun bathroom exhaust fan. The motor stays nice and cool.
Screen Shot 2017-03-05 at 5.35.01 PM.png
Screen Shot 2017-03-05 at 5.35.36 PM.png

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Rick 386
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Stoker Coal Boiler: AA 260 heating both sides of twin farmhouse
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Coal Size/Type: Pea in AA 260, Rice in LL Hyfire II
Other Heating: Gas fired infared at work
Location: Royersford, Pa
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Post Sun. Mar. 05, 2017 6:57 pm

Lee,

The AA 260 does allow the flapper door to open when it is not stoking so it does provide additional air.

The new Coalheat........thanks for the pics. Looking at the specs for the DJ-3 vs your D-3 does show quite a difference in input BTU ratings. And if your D-3 did indeed get hot, I think the DJ-3 would not last too long...............

So I guess I'll return the DJ-3 and just get the AD-1. At least the AD-1 already has the speed control for the fan mounted direct to the unit. So that eliminates 1 part. I should have the AD-1 by Tuesday.

Thanks for the input including that from the "English teacher." :D

Rick

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Lightning
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Post Sun. Mar. 05, 2017 7:42 pm

Rick 386 wrote:Lee,

The AA 260 does allow the flapper door to open when it is not stoking so it does provide additional air.
Right. I was referring to extra air coming into the fire chamber that's not intended for combustion of the coal.


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coaledsweat
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Post Sun. Mar. 05, 2017 8:52 pm

Lightning wrote:
Rick 386 wrote:Lee,

The AA 260 does allow the flapper door to open when it is not stoking so it does provide additional air.
Right. I was referring to extra air coming into the fire chamber that's not intended for combustion of the coal.
That is the reason for the flapper. It breaks the draft through the firebed by bypassing it. It satisfies the chimney draft but ceases combustion in the firepot. It doesn't feed the fire, it starves it. Another reason they are so efficient.

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Lightning
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Post Sun. Mar. 05, 2017 9:26 pm

coaledsweat wrote:That is the reason for the flapper. It breaks the draft through the firebed by bypassing it.
Oh. So it's like a check damper? The air it let's in doesn't get heated?

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Lightning
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Post Sun. Mar. 05, 2017 9:44 pm

Also, why would you want a flapper open to satisfy the draft if yer gettin carbon monoxide in the basement?

Pardon my numb skull, just looking to learn something here. :)

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Rob R.
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Post Mon. Mar. 06, 2017 6:06 am

Lightning wrote:
coaledsweat wrote:That is the reason for the flapper. It breaks the draft through the firebed by bypassing it.
Oh. So it's like a check damper? The air it let's in doesn't get heated?
No. The flap is on the boiler itself, not on the flue breech.
Lightning wrote:Also, why would you want a flapper open to satisfy the draft if yer gettin carbon monoxide in the basement?

Pardon my numb skull, just looking to learn something here. :)
The idea is to allow a small amount of air to be pulled through the boiler, this prevents coal gasses from building up, and the stream of heated air should help maintain draft. Also, if you close that flap you were lose temperature control over the boiler (basically turns it into a hand-fed boiler).

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Rob R.
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Post Mon. Mar. 06, 2017 6:10 am

Rick 386 wrote:So with the replumbing of my AA 260, it has become so much more efficient. So efficient that it does not run as much as it used to in these up and down temps. Which now leads to insufficient draft. Discovered that first off the old SS flue pipe had developed pinholes. Probably due to it sitting idle for over 1 year.

So I just replaced the flue pipe with new Olympia Ventis pipe. But with the AA sitting idle for longer periods we are experiencing some CO in the basement. There is now a cat living in the basement so I am hearing some static about the levels of CO.

So I ordered a Tjerlund draft inducer Model DJ-3 since it was the cheapest model on Amazon.Then come to find that most use Model AD-1. Could the model DJ-3 be used on the AA ?? If so I will install it and get a speed controller for the motor or I will order the AD-1 later today after possibly getting some feedback here. Big question is that they recommend installing the draft inducer on the bottom side of any horizontal pipe. Since we all know about fly ash settling in horizontal pipes, will that affect the draft inducer ???

Rick
Rick, with all the bragging the AA guys have done over the years about these things needing little to no draft, I wonder if there is something else going on here. The first thing I would do is see if the draft is actually going to zero when the boiler sits idle. If it does not, I think you either have a problem with the "pope hat" gasket, or insufficient make-up air to the boiler room.

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coaledsweat
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Post Mon. Mar. 06, 2017 7:12 am

I have a no draft chimney and a 260M, I just crack a window in the basement.

The chimney itself should have some draft, pope's hat, plate, whatever, regardless of what is before it. It should have some draft or it has a serious problem, the device connected to it isn't it.

Is this chimney on a first floor portion of a two story house? Could be a stack effect going on like mine.

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Rob R.
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Post Mon. Mar. 06, 2017 8:03 am

I mentioned the pope hat because a few years ago someone had an issue with it and the boiler would emit CO whenever the fan started up


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