Chimney Suggestions Attached Outbuilding/Shed

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skobydog
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Post Thu. Jan. 19, 2017 1:29 pm

I planning an attached shed addition this year. I am considering putting a boiler in here rather in my garage. Being at the top of a steep hill does anyone see any issues with a chimney in this location? If not, what chimney heights would be required for a stoker boiler? Any other issues I should consider? thanks
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Lightning
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Post Thu. Jan. 19, 2017 1:35 pm

Ooooo, a strong wind coming from the opposite side of the house might cause a down draft. But since the shed is a separate entity it possibly might not be an issue. That's a tough one.... You could try it and add height later on if there is a problem, right?

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freetown fred
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Post Thu. Jan. 19, 2017 1:39 pm

SOP is 25' from any existing roof peaks. It looks like you'll be fine. I personally would put a cap on it no matter what.
Last edited by freetown fred on Thu. Jan. 19, 2017 1:41 pm, edited 1 time in total.

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windyhill4.2
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Post Thu. Jan. 19, 2017 1:40 pm

With the top of that chimney lower than the peak of the house roof,there are likely going to be some days when you will have a down draft issue. This will all be influenced some by which direction the prevailing winds are coming at the boiler stack.
You should figure a minimum of 15' for the stack height, from the boiler exhaust outlet up.

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Post Thu. Jan. 19, 2017 1:45 pm

You might find some of this helpful ?

http://www.woodheat.org/wind-chimney.html

Paul


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skobydog
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Post Thu. Jan. 19, 2017 2:02 pm

The building will be attached to the house. I was planning to use part of that room as a seasonal living space and the other part for a boiler room.

There would be a wall separating the boiler room with a separte entrance from outside. I don't think I would have to worry about flue gases.

So would the downdraft really only affect the fire?

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SWPaDon
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Post Thu. Jan. 19, 2017 2:06 pm

A downdraft will push flue gases into the living space.

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SWPaDon
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Post Thu. Jan. 19, 2017 2:09 pm

I have 2 - 70 ft. pine trees about 75 ft. from my chimney. Winds coming from that direction would push smoke into my basement. In my case, a cap completely solved the problem

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windyhill4.2
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Post Thu. Jan. 19, 2017 2:30 pm

If you are convinced on not going higher with that stack, at least put the stack on the outer corner of the addition. That will prevent less possibilities for a down draft situation.

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skobydog
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Post Thu. Jan. 19, 2017 2:31 pm

Alright. I think I've got it. The plan is for the building to go up this summer. If draft is an issue I will have to just convert it to storage, work space, or living space. thanks
Last edited by skobydog on Thu. Jan. 19, 2017 2:35 pm, edited 2 times in total.


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skobydog
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Post Thu. Jan. 19, 2017 2:32 pm

windyhill4.2 wrote:If you are convinced on not going higher with that stack, at least put the stack on the outer corner of the addition. That will prevent less possibilities for a down draft situation.
thanks, I'll keep that in mind. :)

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Post Thu. Jan. 19, 2017 2:49 pm

I would say that if your going masonry and filling the block w/ vermiculite youll be fine. Especially if you put it on the inside of the building. The warmer your stack the better your draft.....

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Post Thu. Jan. 19, 2017 5:09 pm

Bricklayer 45 years plus .Go higher than roof .Just like buying insurance over the peak is Better .Going higher will take a mason less than a half day . jack

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McGiever
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Post Mon. Jan. 23, 2017 9:32 pm

skobydog wrote:I planning an attached shed addition this year. I am considering putting a boiler in here rather in my garage. Being at the top of a steep hill does anyone see any issues with a chimney in this location? If not, what chimney heights would be required for a stoker boiler? Any other issues I should consider? thanks
Stoker boiler...I know a couple guys who put them in truck bodies and/or sheds w/ 15' max stove pipe...after all we're not talking natural draft, these stokers are fan forced draft when under load. Having minimal bends, insulated pipe thru roof and what's outside and a cap will all be pluses. Take the pipe straight up and out the roof w/ a flashing...keep outside pipe exposure to a minimum and no horizontal pipe to collect flyash in. No need to be skerd of having a flashing on a roof...there are millions of them out there, you are not a pioneer of flashing a roof penetration. ;)

Come on guys, no need to be skerd w/ a fan forced draft. :)

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