Problem Connecting to Masonry Chimney
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Your first thought of using a double wall tee with a plug on the bottom of it would work; the plug could be used for a clean out without taking apart the connector pipe.
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The plug would not be at the bottom. The tee would be horizontal, the stove connection would be coming up into it, so it would act as a 90, but I can use the plugged end as a clean out, or install the barometric damper up there??????
- SWPaDon
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Quite a few have done that very thingTryingitout wrote:The plug would not be at the bottom. The tee would be horizontal, the stove connection would be coming up into it, so it would act as a 90, but I can use the plugged end as a clean out, or install the barometric damper up there??????
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Good to know thanks.
- McGiever
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Not a recommended baro position.
- coaledsweat
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I'll second that. Ideally, at the middle of a long straight run. Use the TEE and a cap for cleanouts.McGiever wrote:Not a recommended baro position.
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New problem OLD HOUSES SUCK.
When I was starting to make the new connection to the masonry chimney, I discovered the bottom 2' of the clay liner is mostly gone, I am not sure if it is possible to repair it. I thought about using some refractory mortor, and trying to recast something in its place. Not sure if that would work, or how it would hold up over time. I looked online at relining kits, but now I run back into the clearance problems, and the 25' run is not even close to a straight shot.(couple bows in there) I am considering tearing out the old, and installing a proper class A.
When I was starting to make the new connection to the masonry chimney, I discovered the bottom 2' of the clay liner is mostly gone, I am not sure if it is possible to repair it. I thought about using some refractory mortor, and trying to recast something in its place. Not sure if that would work, or how it would hold up over time. I looked online at relining kits, but now I run back into the clearance problems, and the 25' run is not even close to a straight shot.(couple bows in there) I am considering tearing out the old, and installing a proper class A.
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Had a fairly large piece of 8" x 12" section of clay flue liner break in my chimney 4 years ago just above where the stove pipe enters the chimney. I managed to get the piece out and used re-fractory cement to do a repair. It has lasted 4+ years now with no problems. Had to do it all by hand reaching in & up to apply it and smooth it out, but it worked & is still working.
- CoalisCoolxWarm
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Liners can sit on top of each other. If one is damaged, the liners can collapse catastrophically.
I've never tried to reline one
I've never tried to reline one
- coaledsweat
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Have a local mason that does chimneys look at it. He can probably fix it for $200-300.
- CoalisCoolxWarm
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^^^ This ^^^coaledsweat wrote:Have a local mason that does chimneys look at it. He can probably fix it for $200-300.
Get an expert, save money safely
- McGiever
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To find a recommended mason find the local block and brick supplier and visit them for leads.
The price will be better and the results will last beyond your lifetime...not the case from using any metal alternative.
The price will be better and the results will last beyond your lifetime...not the case from using any metal alternative.
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Thanks again for all the input. I talked to a mason that works on my jobs, asked him if it would work to use some metal lath, and parge it with refractory cement? He agreed that would be fine. So I am almost done, just need to install the pipe, and cement around it. I chipped the inlet hole down as far as I could since I was going to repair the flue anyway, now I have 8 1/2" of clearance. A little chimney pipe work, then on to piping the boiler.
- CoalisCoolxWarm
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Great news!