MPD & Baro on a Glenwood 8?

Sunny Boy wrote:Can you twist Tony's arm to get him to post pix ? Would love to see pix with the stove up and running, .... plus hear about how that mag is working out for him.

Paul

Hahahahaha, I keep bugging him to log on and introduce himself! I guess when he gets ready he'll do it. I know he's busy every spare moment deer hunting. I'm going to visit Skip and Kevin on Saturday to pick up parts for the globe stove I'm slowly going over and I'll grab the mag then. But promise I'll personally report on its ops when it's in and running next week

scalabro wrote:

Sunny Boy wrote:Can you twist Tony's arm to get him to post pix ? Would love to see pix with the stove up and running, .... plus hear about how that mag is working out for him.

Paul

Hahahahaha, I keep bugging him to log on and introduce himself! I guess when he gets ready he'll do it. I know he's busy every spare moment deer hunting. I'm going to visit Skip and Kevin on Saturday to pick up parts for the globe stove I'm slowly going over and I'll grab the mag then. But promise I'll personally report on its ops when it's in and running next week

Ok, that's an excuse that works for me ! Hope his luck is better than mine was this year !

Paul

fwiw,

you could ditch the cast elbow and install a "T" in vert. position there. this will cause some turbulence and slow things a bit.

the last 2 yrs. I've been using "T''s this way with good results. just a thought.

steve

Scott,

Although my stove is a bit different I had the same issue, my draft was too strong! I installed a baro and it seemed to help quite a bit. If he ever decides to burn wood just pull out the baro end and put a cap/plug in it's place. Simple yet effective piece of equipment! As far as location, placing a baro before an MPD seems like it would case flue gas to back up and leak out of the baro when the MPD is closed? Best of luck bud.

Tom

tcalo wrote:As far as location, placing a baro before an MPD seems like it would case flue gas to back up and leak out of the baro when the MPD is closed?

It does seem that would happen but it won't as long as there is some negative pressure in the stove. Having the baro below the MPD let's it do its job much more efficiently. And you don't need to have the MPD completely closed, just keep it cracked open 30 - 45 degrees (relative to perpendicular of the pipe). This arrangement actually gives you awesome control of the draft with less thieving of room air. Just be sure to keep a manometer hooked up that reads between the stove and dampers.

When tending the stove make sure the MPD is open, like normally would be done.

This is just my opinion, I would never advise anyone to disregard someone else's view on the whole damper placement controversy.

If an mpd keeps heat in the stove,then putting a baro b4 the mpd will allow the baro to lose hotter air that is blocked by the mpd .

With the baro after the mpd,the baro is only losing your room temperature air.

So ,does one want to lose 70* air or 200* + air ??????

I do know what my preference is.

windyhill4.2 wrote:If an mpd keeps heat in the stove,then putting a baro b4 the mpd will allow the baro to lose hotter air that is blocked by the mpd .

With the baro after the mpd,the baro is only losing your room temperature air.

So ,does one want to lose 70* air or 200* + air ??????

I do know what my preference is.

me too, the safe way.

windyhill4.2 wrote:If an mpd keeps heat in the stove,then putting a baro b4 the mpd will allow the baro to lose hotter air that is blocked by the mpd .

With the baro after the mpd,the baro is only losing your room temperature air.

So ,does one want to lose 70* air or 200* + air ?.

I'm not quite following your logic here. The baro is losing room air exclusively in both cases. It would loose even less room air below a partly closed mpd. Besides, an mpd doesn't keep heat in a stove. The keeping heat in a stove idea is a just a side effect of less air volume going thru the stove due to a weaker negative pressure inside it, wherever that might happen due to leaks. A baro does the same thing with more precision. Is this becoming a baro vs mpd discussion again lol. Oh no! Hahaha

Incoming, take cover immediately lol

Where is the 200 degree air going??? If the mpd is keeping the heat before it, wouldnt the 200 degree heat have to go around/through the mpd??? Then wouldn't the 200 degree heat go through the mpd without a baro before it anyways?

KingCoal wrote:fwiw,

you could ditch the cast elbow and install a "T" in vert. position there. this will cause some turbulence and slow things a bit.

the last 2 yrs. I've been using "T''s this way with good results. just a thought.

steve

Plus it gives a place for the fly ash to go instead of laying in the elbow, If his setup is anything like mine(pipe straight up into the clay) theres no place for it to go and there is more then you think with that pipe configuration.

A 30 foot interior chimney is a perfect case for the baro below the mpd arrangement. The chimney is always warmer than the outside air therefore the gases in the chimney will always be less dense and it will always have pull. I know I know, never say always if yer running the stove with 85 degrees outside lol, or its choked off by 2 mpds and it gets warm out.

yea , let us see that blue barrel, fully nickled #8