Chimney - Energy Required to Maintain Draft
- Keepaeyeonit
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- Location: Northeast Ohio.( Grand river wine country )
- Baseburners & Antiques: Glenwood #8
- Coal Size/Type: Nut & stove
- Other Heating: 49 year old oil furnace, and finally a new heat pump
Do you see pipe temp differences depending on ofa settings? (I'm sure you have that info on here but I don't remember) I notice the more ofa I have the cooler the stove Is and the hotter the pipe Is.
- Lightning
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- Location: Olean, NY
- Stoker Coal Boiler: Modified AA 130
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You do mean over the fire air, right?Keepaeyeonit wrote:Do you see pipe temp differences depending on ofa settings? (I'm sure you have that info on here but I don't remember) I notice the more ofa I have the cooler the stove Is and the hotter the pipe Is.
Yes sir, I see the same effect with extra secondary air.
- Lightning
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- Location: Olean, NY
- Stoker Coal Boiler: Modified AA 130
- Coal Size/Type: Pea Size - Anthracite
What is also interesting is that it can be further deduced that (other than possibly some better combustion efficiency) a base burner on my exterior chimney wouldn't be able to do any better at producing heat than the Clayton... Because of the need for heat energy required for drafting..
- Keepaeyeonit
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- Posts: 1680
- Joined: Wed. Mar. 24, 2010 7:18 pm
- Location: Northeast Ohio.( Grand river wine country )
- Baseburners & Antiques: Glenwood #8
- Coal Size/Type: Nut & stove
- Other Heating: 49 year old oil furnace, and finally a new heat pump
You are probably right but I'm not sure you could even run a BB on that chimney(in the base mode anyways) with flue temps that they produce. I will say you are the master of Clayton and you seem to have it running like a Swiss watch!
- Djcoak6071
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I find this interesting because on my internal chimney by baron opens up pretty quickly when I start burning