New to Coal, Koker Lite, Inside Sulfer Smell, Other Question

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rookie_NY
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Post by rookie_NY » Sun. Nov. 01, 2015 10:11 am

Hello all,

Complete rookie to coal burning here. We just purchased a new Keystoker Koker Lite and had installed this past Thursday 10/29. It is in our basement connected to our duct work with a direct vent to a Tee outside. We are getting a suffer smell in the basement and slightly in the house, Co2 detectors on each level with readings of 0.
Knowing that the system is new and venting clean, could this be a draft problem? The gentleman that installed it checked with an air meter of some sort and said that it was right at -2 I believe and said this was perfect? I understand it has a range to be in for efficiency but could that be the problem?

The other question is that he said the oil furnace fan may kick on every now and then and that will be ok, can we run the oil furnace fan when the coal blower is not on? Just for a little extra cfm?

I'm sure I will have other questions also but this will get me started!

So far we love it with 2 toddlers, thermostat set at 68*, basement is 74* and house stays right at 70* with warm floors for the little ones!

Thank you!

 
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SWPaDon
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Location: Southwest Pa.
Hand Fed Coal Furnace: Clayton 1600M
Coal Size/Type: Bituminous
Other Heating: Oil furnace

Post by SWPaDon » Sun. Nov. 01, 2015 10:23 am

Welcome to the forum.

Is the hopper lid on? Is there moisture on the bottom of the hopper lid when it is removed?

 
lzaharis
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Posts: 2366
Joined: Sun. Mar. 25, 2007 8:41 pm
Location: Ithaca, New York
Stoker Coal Boiler: Keystoker KAA-4-1 dual fuel boiler
Hand Fed Coal Boiler: former switzer CWW100-sold
Coal Size/Type: rice
Other Heating: kerosene for dual fuel Keystoker/unused

Post by lzaharis » Sun. Nov. 01, 2015 10:24 am

You should seriously look at having
your flue pipe extended upward much
higher rather with a rain cap above the peak of
your roof line rather than having it at ground level.

The flue gas has less opportunity to disperse and
dilute and the air being pulled into the basement
will have remnants of the flue gas if it is still close
to the ground.

Do you have a large number of trees nearby??
thats all the more reason to have the flue pipe
elevated above the roof line.

Is your current furnace or Koker installation equiped with an
outside air source rather than using the air in the basement
for combustion?

You can still have a perfect manometer reading of 0.02 HG
referred to as the pressure gradient and have a sulfur smell
as I noted above.

You have to be sure the lid is left on the hopper too as Don said.


 
rookie_NY
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Post by rookie_NY » Sun. Nov. 01, 2015 10:41 am

Didn't get a hopper lid with it, I even asked about it?

Air intake is hooked up to furnace from cold air return upstairs.

Extending the flue above the peak of house would be out this year.

Thanks for the quick responses also!

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lzaharis
Member
Posts: 2366
Joined: Sun. Mar. 25, 2007 8:41 pm
Location: Ithaca, New York
Stoker Coal Boiler: Keystoker KAA-4-1 dual fuel boiler
Hand Fed Coal Boiler: former switzer CWW100-sold
Coal Size/Type: rice
Other Heating: kerosene for dual fuel Keystoker/unused

Post by lzaharis » Sun. Nov. 01, 2015 10:57 am

rookie_NY wrote:Didn't get a hopper lid with it, I even asked about it?

Air intake is hooked up to furnace from cold air return upstairs.

Extending the flue above the peak of house would be out this year.

Thanks for the quick responses also!
Would you mind filling out the rest of your profile? Its not that were nosy,
if we can help you and a member is nearby its much easier for you as a
first time coal user.

UGH!!! I don't think yours or Freetown Freds model have lids come to think of it.

it preferable to have a separate air intake for combustion in two different fossil fuel appliances
as you are robbing peter to pay paul so to speak.

You ought to see about a separate air intake on the opposite basement wall if at all possible
as you may not have enough fresh air exchange.

Is your heating system chimney set up with a clay thimble in the peak of the roof??

I would have suggested cracking a window in the basement if you had one but with the
furnace flue pipe set where it is its not a good idea to do that.

 
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SWPaDon
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Posts: 9857
Joined: Sun. Nov. 24, 2013 12:05 pm
Location: Southwest Pa.
Hand Fed Coal Furnace: Clayton 1600M
Coal Size/Type: Bituminous
Other Heating: Oil furnace

Post by SWPaDon » Sun. Nov. 01, 2015 11:03 am

I found a picture of one. It has a lid on the hopper.

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lzaharis
Member
Posts: 2366
Joined: Sun. Mar. 25, 2007 8:41 pm
Location: Ithaca, New York
Stoker Coal Boiler: Keystoker KAA-4-1 dual fuel boiler
Hand Fed Coal Boiler: former switzer CWW100-sold
Coal Size/Type: rice
Other Heating: kerosene for dual fuel Keystoker/unused

Post by lzaharis » Sun. Nov. 01, 2015 11:18 am

I thnk you lacking enough combustion air. Having a reversed drier vent on the far wall with a run of 3 inch PVC pipe to the coal furnace would help I think. I believe some of our members have done that also with tight houses.

 
the duck
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Location: Greenfield, NY

Post by the duck » Sun. Nov. 08, 2015 10:31 pm

Hi,
I'm in a similar position as you - never used coal before. I am looking to buy a koker or koker light to replace my oil furnace in a 2,300 sq.ft. house. Any thoughts on your system so far? Did the sulfur smell get resolved? Also, I live in the Albany area - would you mind telling me approximately how much you paid for your furnace and the entire installation? I'm trying to save money wherever I can, and the installation is a big part of the outlay. Any of your experiences from one rookie to another would be appreciated.
Thanks,
Matt

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