Tankless Coil Into Electric Tank.

My New Yorker coal boiler has the tankless coil, I have no idea what it's rated for, it's 1/2". I know I can just valve off my electric tank, but I've read some on here piping the coil into the inlet of the tank so that they have some storage.. It's a 3 year old 40 gallon tank, I'm wondering how long it will sit warm if there is no demand, I am thinking of just putting a bypass in the coil to temper the water temp, if I feed the electric tank with say 140-150 degree water, I would think it would last a while.. Anyone have this setup and have any data?

I am about to tackle my own DHW coil. First off let me say I am a big pump it guy I know in some cases you can do it with out one but I would still have the pump even with power usage. Not real clear on what your asking about but I think you plan on taking the inlet pipe on your hot water tank and putting it thru your coil. I thought of this myself and decide against it. First my boiler is too far from my house. Second as your hot water tank loose heat during the day with no demand you would have no way to heat it because the inlet method requires flow. Then there is the issue of the crappy flow you get out of a coil so even tho you are pulling hot water from your tank you can only pull as much as ur coil will let flow in. A much better way is to use your T&P tap and the drain. A cheap way to get around the whole mixing valve thing is to use a pump and a hot water tank thermo not the top split kind but one for the bottom of the tank, wire it and pump to 120, figure out how to hold the thermo tight to the tank an start it up. Remember you still need to plumb in your T&P valve close to the tank, I would use a tee and a nipple off this port.

I understand it's better to pump it, except a pump is upwards of 200 dollars.

I've said this before...
Buy a used one, everything need not be bought new.

Search and find old boiler system tear-outs (oil, gas whatever) can be bought for cheap. Scrap the boiler vessel and keep all the rest...pumps, expansion tank, valves, aquastats, checks, guages, vents, fill valve, backflow preventer etc..
Good way to get good parts for peanuts.
Contractors part-out these used items on ebay and / or Craig's List too.

Price of new parts is never an excuse.

I know McGiever trust me, I'm always looking, but up here there is nothing to be found, I think people are hoarders lol

hotblast1357 wrote:My New Yorker coal boiler has the tankless coil, I have no idea what it's rated for, it's 1/2". I know I can just valve off my electric tank, but I've read some on here piping the coil into the inlet of the tank so that they have some storage.. It's a 3 year old 40 gallon tank, I'm wondering how long it will sit warm if there is no demand, I am thinking of just putting a bypass in the coil to temper the water temp, if I feed the electric tank with say 140-150 degree water, I would think it would last a while.. Anyone have this setup and have any data?

I did exactly what you proposed in my brother's house with his EFM and electric water heater. The newer water heaters are foam insulated, and will keep the water warm for quite a while. He does not shut off the water heater, but there is a noticeable drop in the monthly electric bill once the boiler comes online in the fall.

Rob R. wrote:

hotblast1357 wrote:My New Yorker coal boiler has the tankless coil, I have no idea what it's rated for, it's 1/2". I know I can just valve off my electric tank, but I've read some on here piping the coil into the inlet of the tank so that they have some storage.. It's a 3 year old 40 gallon tank, I'm wondering how long it will sit warm if there is no demand, I am thinking of just putting a bypass in the coil to temper the water temp, if I feed the electric tank with say 140-150 degree water, I would think it would last a while.. Anyone have this setup and have any data?

I did exactly what you proposed in my brother's house with his EFM and electric water heater. The newer water heaters are foam insulated, and will keep the water warm for quite a while. He does not shut off the water heater, but there is a noticeable drop in the monthly electric bill once the boiler comes online in the fall.

That's what I thought rob, and if I was away long for the tank to cool down, a whole day, my fire would be out anyways lol I like this also because we have town water so if we loose power I will still have hot water, I did find a ss pump on eBay for 70 dollars, but if I can just use hot water every 8-10 hours I would think it would stay hot, especially with 140-150 degree water.

Look for a thermostatic mixing valve...no reason to go Commando out at the tap.

Your Guests will appreciate not being scalded.

McGiever wrote:Look for a thermostatic mixing valve...no reason to go Commando out at the tap.

Your Guests will appreciate not being scalded.

Well here is my dilemma.. If I go with a mixing valve I will be in it for around 80-100 dollars. It will work without electricity but if it sits for a long time it will cool down, unless I leave my tank on.

Or I could purchase a pump, for around 70 dollars, and cycle it with a snap switch to keep the tank at 120-130. But if I loose power I also loose hot water.

What is a better load for the boiler? The first setup, "on demand", or a constant cycling, I would like to run the boiler as long as I can throughout the summer, for one to keep the boiler dry, and too keep the basement drier, but if I don't use hot water all day, with the "on demand" setup the boiler will be sitting with no load trying to idle, which I think might not work that well, but if I use the pump setup, then throughout the day their will be a small load as the pump cycles to keep the dhw tank up to temp.

hotblast1357 wrote:http://www.amazon.com/TOPSFLO-Brushless-Circulato ... lator+pump

The only thing you will need to properly account for somehow (a relay perhaps) is that the pump in your link is 12V DC.

Yes I already have a 120v-12v transformer from my hotblast furnace mod.

I just checked and I was wrong, it is a 120v to 24v transformer, my bad.

hotblast1357 wrote:I just checked and I was wrong, it is a 120v to 24v transformer, my bad.

It is also likely a 120VAC to 24VAC transformer. If so, there has been no conversion (inversion) to DC.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/3-4-NPT-110V-Hot-Water-Ci ... 4ae9ad6754

Might as well use this pump.