Tankless Coil Into Electric Tank.

 
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McGiever
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Post by McGiever » Mon. Jul. 27, 2015 7:25 am

Street pressure, no pump.
Tee into cold pipe feeding into DHW to utilize tanks dip tube to feed hot coil water into tank nearer to bottom...valve off normal cold feeding tank ahead of your added tee.
Add mixing/tempering valve on hot water out.

You may leave electric on to tank...just disconnect the lower element and have top element ready...you'll only use electric during a major malfunction or never.

 
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Post by hotblast1357 » Mon. Jul. 27, 2015 9:00 am

Alright thanks, do u see any point in adding temp gauges?

 
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Post by McGiever » Mon. Jul. 27, 2015 8:35 pm

gauges are like windows on a house...don't need them if you don't care what goes on out or inside. :roll:

 
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Post by hotblast1357 » Tue. Jul. 28, 2015 5:15 am

Lol alrighty then, good point.


 
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Post by hotblast1357 » Mon. Nov. 02, 2015 5:08 am

been lit since 9/26, and the electric tank has not come on once, pretty glad about that, im really amazed that the tank will hold the hot water over night preventing the elements from coming on, I do not have any temp gauges on it yet, but figure its gotta be seeing at least 150 degree water going into it.

 
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Post by hotblast1357 » Sun. Nov. 08, 2015 8:52 am

recieved my electric bill for the month of october, and it was cut down to half! that is awesome, it is usually around 80 dollars, and was only 43 dollars.

 
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Post by Lightning » Sun. Nov. 08, 2015 12:58 pm

hotblast1357 wrote:recieved my electric bill for the month of october, and it was cut down to half! that is awesome, it is usually around 80 dollars, and was only 43 dollars.
Yeah that makes sense. An electric hot water tank usually adds $40-$50 a month to an electric bill, depending on usage of course.. It'll save ya $350 - $400 a year based on 8 months. Look at all the extra money you'll have to buy coal with.. :lol:

 
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Post by hotblast1357 » Sat. Nov. 14, 2015 11:12 am

so the system is working good, but the only problem I am having is, with extended use of dhw, or the wife taking a shower, lol it will draw my boiler down to much, (a'stat right now is set at 170, with a 5 degree differential) to around 135-140 and that is causing the electric to kick on, ive heard it twice now! lol what are my options? pre heating the water going into the coil? I thought about wrapping copper around my stove pipe... I don't have to worry about loosing draft, or a small tank I guess that is bare, to allow some warmth from the basement to pre heat it? or should I not worry about it? I don't want to give it more combustion air because I think it will cause it to over shoot once its satisfied, and maybe once the cold is here and boiler is "running" more, it wont get brought down so much.


 
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Post by Rob R. » Sat. Nov. 14, 2015 12:23 pm

The amount of electric being used is probably very small, and I think you are correct that the boiler will respond much faster in the heating season.

 
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Post by hotblast1357 » Sat. Nov. 14, 2015 12:43 pm

thats what I was figuring, cuz right now its sitting idle for 9-10 hours, then all of a sudden the coil puts a shock to it and it takes a while to wake it back up, well have to see how it performs this winter.

 
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Post by McGiever » Tue. Nov. 24, 2015 11:02 am

There are ways to have boiler controls to allow for the the boiler to catch up so DHW can be satisfied first before allowing any other zones to start/run and pull the boiler temp down.
This is a critical feature to have when output capacity of boiler is discovered to be just a tad undersized, like on the coldest day of season, fire got small or is perhaps, for some reason, is just slow to respond.

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