Roof Brace Instructions Supervent Bracket

Hey guys,

I'm trying to plan out my install for a Class A triple wall chimney using Selkirk Supervent. I'm coming out the basement wall and up along the gable side of the house. The roof is a 12/12 pitch so from what I gather my chimney will need to be 12 feet high.

My question is the Selkirk instructions.

"Over 10' use one RBK 4' from the roof and one RBK every 5' thereafter". So, I would need 2 brackets, correct? One bracket 4' high up on the chimney and another at 9'.

The instructions online were a little confusing at first but I think I'm understanding it correctly now. Or am I?

Looks right to me.

coaledsweat wrote:Looks right to me.

Thanks, I just wanted to make sure I was reading this right before ordering. I'll call the company to verify. Thanks again

SD

If you have an attic space you might consider 45 then another 45 moving the exit point closer to your peak and then just getting it above the peak 2' and if you can get it close enough you wont need any braces. And Im not sure the have any offsets for that chimney, some do some dont. The chimney might very well draft better and the closer to your peak you make a hole the less water flows past that hole. And you don't have 4 more holes for braces. I obviously cant see your attic situation but if its like mine it would be worth doing if your not too far off to one side coming up from the stove.

Waldo

waldo lemieux wrote:SD

If you have an attic space you might consider 45 then another 45 moving the exit point closer to your peak and then just getting it above the peak 2' and if you can get it close enough you wont need any braces. And Im not sure the have any offsets for that chimney, some do some dont. The chimney might very well draft better and the closer to your peak you make a hole the less water flows past that hole. And you don't have 4 more holes for braces. I obviously cant see your attic situation but if its like mine it would be worth doing if your not too far off to one side coming up from the stove.

Waldo

This is a basement install. As you can see from this pic I believe I only have this one option. Plus, the basement is limited to where I can install the stove.

Boy SD , I don't know about that situation . It seems to me that with that long slope there that even getting it up twelve feet might pose a reverse(high) pressure condition . Hopefully someone with more experience will be by to put a stamp of approval on it, but I'm apprehensive. Absolutely no way to move it over to the propane tank region and go up the outside in the middle?

waldo lemieux wrote:Boy SD , I don't know about that situation . It seems to me that with that long slope there that even getting it up twelve feet might pose a reverse(high) pressure condition . Hopefully someone with more experience will be by to put a stamp of approval on it, but I'm apprehensive. Absolutely no way to move it over to the propane tank region and go up the outside in the middle?

Thanks waldo, great info, It's something I didn't think about.

After looking around I found you can buy (or even make) a rotating chimney cap. Basically a chimney cap/weather vane combination to prevent downdrafts. There are a few companies out there and people also have made them. Not sure how well they work, I'll have to research that.

Here's a homemade one

If you put the chimney where you have it drawn, its kind of hard to guess how it will actually be height wise when installed. I'd want it closer to the peak of the house, if thats possible. If its not possible, go ahead and try it, but be prepared to add another 3 feet if your draft is bad. 45's to get it closer to the peak, as mentioned, would be another good option. Its just always hard to guess at these things.

waldo lemieux wrote:SD

If you have an attic space you might consider 45 then another 45 moving the exit point closer to your peak and then just getting it above the peak 2' and if you can get it close enough you wont need any braces. And Im not sure the have any offsets for that chimney, some do some dont. The chimney might very well draft better and the closer to your peak you make a hole the less water flows past that hole. And you don't have 4 more holes for braces. I obviously cant see your attic situation but if its like mine it would be worth doing if your not too far off to one side coming up from the stove.

Waldo

I think to do that would actually require more stovepipe. Also, more bracing, possibly at every joint and or a structural component to keep it aligned.

coaledsweat wrote:I think to do that would actually require more stovepipe. Also, more bracing, possibly at every joint and or a structural component to keep it aligned.

Not positive about triple wall but metalbestos (packed) pipe would'nt require any more structual supports and the intermediary braces are cheap .

SD, Im not as concerened about a downdraft as you can abate that condition as youve mentioned. The ridge creating a high pressure(bad) on one side and a low pressure (preferred) on the other is more of a concern to me.

waldo lemieux wrote:

coaledsweat wrote:I think to do that would actually require more stovepipe. Also, more bracing, possibly at every joint and or a structural component to keep it aligned.

Not positive about triple wall but metalbestos (packed) pipe would'nt require any more structual supports and the intermediary braces are cheap .

SD, Im not as concerened about a downdraft as you can abate that condition as youve mentioned. The ridge creating a high pressure(bad) on one side and a low pressure (preferred) on the other is more of a concern to me.

Anyway to test rather than making a large purchase only to find out it doesn't perform well?

Not that I can think of one of these guys on here should be able to give you a more definite answer.
But everybody is outside enjoying the weather. I know there are a couple of masons onboard....

waldo lemieux wrote:Not that I can think of one of these guys on here should be able to give you a more definite answer.
But everybody is outside enjoying the weather. I know there are a couple of masons onboard....

Hey Waldo, Well I see what you're saying. The placement I chose is the worst.

I actually tried for a better scale with this picture. From the wall to the roof is 8 feet. Add another 12 feet and it's pretty high. Going up the side of the house isn't as bad as I had thought. I would have to add more pipe but would save a few bucks on the roof brackets.

Would the bend at the bottom be acceptable for building code?

Sd

Can you eliminate those offsets? It seems that if you move the thimble /base support over a few more inches you could go right up along the balcony and that clerestory window. Too, If you went with packed chimney it will probably be smaller in diameter. And putting the chimney on the ridge like that will guaranty success. I think the packed chimney is cheaper also.

waldo

waldo lemieux wrote:Sd

Can you eliminate those offsets? It seems that if you move the thimble /base support over a few more inches you could go right up along the balcony and that clerestory window. Too, If you went with packed chimney it will probably be smaller in diameter. And putting the chimney on the ridge like that will guaranty success. I think the packed chimney is cheaper also.

waldo

Go with the 90° coming out of the thimble rotated at 45° and you eliminate one of them.