Tiring Into Duct Work

hotblast1357 · Post by **hotblast1357** » Sun. Mar. 15, 2015 8:01 pm

I've been thinking about this all winter, I know how it's designed.. The trunk goes smaller down the line too keep the pressure up, but as u can see I tied my coal furnace into the center of the system.. Would I benefit a lot by re routing it down to the start of the duct work? Or would I not notice a big difference? As u can see in the pic I have the central beam for the house right in the way of just simply running it down the start and tieing it in.

cabinover · Post by **cabinover** » Sun. Mar. 15, 2015 8:08 pm

I'm not an HVAC guy but I don't see where you'd gain much from routing all the way back to the WA furnace. If it works now I'd stick with it and smile at how warm your house is.

SWPaDon · Post by **SWPaDon** » Sun. Mar. 15, 2015 8:09 pm

I don't think you would benefit at all by changing it.

But if you want to change it, you don't have to go under the I beam, you can go over the top of the beam between the joists and connect from the top of the trunkline.

hotblast1357 · Post by **hotblast1357** » Sun. Mar. 15, 2015 8:15 pm

The reason for not wanting to go under was for the amount of 90's I would need, which would reduce the flow, not cuz of looks, so goin over the top would be the same, and I don't have the room for 8" round duct above either.

freetown fred · Post by **freetown fred** » Sun. Mar. 15, 2015 8:17 pm

Ditto on given advice:) KISS

SWPaDon · Post by **SWPaDon** » Sun. Mar. 15, 2015 8:24 pm

hotblast1357 wrote:The reason for not wanting to go under was for the amount of 90's I would need, which would reduce the flow, not cuz of looks, so goin over the top would be the same, and I don't have the room for 8" round duct above either.

Don't get me wrong, I don't think you should change it.

If you did though, you wouldn't be putting 8 inch above the beam. You would go thru there with square/rectangular, with sizing close to the same cfm's as your 8 inch round, and tie the 8 inch into it.

Post by **Lightning** » Sun. Mar. 15, 2015 8:25 pm

I'd just use the louvers in the warm air registers to even out the heat distribution..

Scottaw · Post by **Scottaw** » Sun. Mar. 15, 2015 8:26 pm

If you're running the fan continuously, I doubt you'll see any benefit. You're putting btus into the house, it'll all cycle around eventually.

hotblast1357 · Post by **hotblast1357** » Sun. Mar. 15, 2015 8:30 pm

Thanks guys, I figured there wouldn't be enough difference for it to be worth it.

michaelanthony · Post by **michaelanthony** » Sun. Mar. 15, 2015 9:22 pm

Hi HB, I agree with you about adding more turns as turbulence in the air current reduces heat output in the living space. I blow hot air into my return ducts in my basement with success. This yr I decided to buy approx. 100 sq. ft. of foil faced duct insulation and tape it to the ducts I push air thru. Previously I could not keep my hand on the rectangular trunk I made, too too hot, and now I can that it is covered and more heat is going up stairs before it can radiate thru the metal duct and stay in the basement...I bet I gained 3 - 4 degees or use less coal to achieve the same temp

Tiring Into Duct Work

Attachments