The Chimney Begins

 
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ShawnTRD
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Post by ShawnTRD » Sat. Aug. 02, 2014 11:29 pm

tsb wrote:One hell of a first step out that door !
Yeah I need to get a trampoline. :D


 
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michaelanthony
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Post by michaelanthony » Sun. Aug. 03, 2014 12:18 pm

Is the additional cement pad for a future chimney? And, could you position the Keystoker directly inline with the thimble?

 
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ShawnTRD
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Post by ShawnTRD » Sun. Aug. 03, 2014 12:34 pm

michaelanthony wrote:Is the additional cement pad for a future chimney? And, could you position the Keystoker directly inline with the thimble?
No. The extra pad is thin and is for the propane tank in the picture. The KA6 is already set in position in the picture.

 
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ShawnTRD
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Post by ShawnTRD » Sun. Aug. 03, 2014 3:54 pm

McGiever wrote:
Can the tee at the bottom be set at an angle? I think it will be about 60 degree angle. Also I have about 22" from the sheetrock to the body of the boiler. Think that's more then enough? Keystoker says 18" to remove DHW coil if needed.
I just measured a K-6 DHW coil that is for in a 4" hole...it needs 32" to be withdrawn...plus you would need to add on to that for the flange and any fittings/protrusions.

Maybe they make them shorter now??? Is you hole 4"?
I guess so.
"Clearance from wall at stack end should be 18” to permit removal of water heating coil if necessary"

 
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Post by Hambden Bob » Sun. Aug. 03, 2014 4:52 pm

Real Gratifying too see Your Project Coming Along in time for the upcoming Heating Season! Stay with it,and I think You'll be One Happy Camper as the snow starts to fly! :up:

 
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Post by McGiever » Sun. Aug. 03, 2014 6:13 pm

Can the tee at the bottom be set at an angle? I think it will be about 60 degree angle. Also I have about 22" from the sheetrock to the body of the boiler. Think that's more then enough? Keystoker says 18" to remove DHW coil if needed.
I just measured a K-6 DHW coil that is for in a 4" hole...it needs 32" to be withdrawn...plus you would need to add on to that for the flange and any fittings/protrusions.

Maybe they make them shorter now??? ?

I guess so.
"Clearance from wall at stack end should be 18” to permit removal of water heating coil if necessary"
Shawn, you better have a look here:
If 18" is indeed correct you would have maybe 14"-15" submersed coil since you will lose the length of the flange and collar outside of the boiler...now that will be a piss poor performer. :o
keystoker_coal_boiler_2.jpg

18" space is NOT going to get this coil out!!!

.JPG | 27.2KB | keystoker_coal_boiler_2.jpg
Last edited by McGiever on Sun. Aug. 03, 2014 6:15 pm, edited 1 time in total.

 
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ShawnTRD
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Post by ShawnTRD » Sun. Aug. 03, 2014 6:15 pm

lzaharis wrote:
ShawnTRD wrote:Also what do I need around that clay flue for a thimble? Example?
I think you need to strip the insulation away from the thimble tile as it
will get very warm and melt over time.
OK but then can I just wrap some type of fire/heat resident insulation around the clay thimble and put a plate of some sort over that? Everything I see looks like it's for metal stove pipe passing through the wall. What do I use for clay thimbles?


 
lzaharis
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Post by lzaharis » Sun. Aug. 03, 2014 7:50 pm

From what I remember of the national plumbing code-

The thimble requires a simple airspace between wooden studs in
a wood frame structure.

If you have cement meeting cement you should be fine as long
as the interior insulation is far enough away from the thimble to not melt.

What did you decide about the chimney and running angle iron from the chimney to the peak
and anchoring it there to hold the chimney more securely?

 
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ShawnTRD
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Post by ShawnTRD » Sun. Aug. 03, 2014 8:07 pm

lzaharis wrote:What did you decide about the chimney and running angle iron from the chimney to the peak
and anchoring it there to hold the chimney more securely?
I'm going to call my Mason about it on Monday.

 
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ShawnTRD
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Post by ShawnTRD » Mon. Aug. 04, 2014 1:31 pm

This is the reply I got from Keystoker. Plus now I'm thinking I'm going to turn the boiler 90°.

"Thank you for purchasing one of our products. No we still use the same domestic coil. You will only need 18" the coil is about 32" long but it can be flexed to get it in or out.

 Hope this helps,

Don Somers
Keystone Mfg"
McGiever wrote:
Can the tee at the bottom be set at an angle? I think it will be about 60 degree angle. Also I have about 22" from the sheetrock to the body of the boiler. Think that's more then enough? Keystoker says 18" to remove DHW coil if needed.
I just measured a K-6 DHW coil that is for in a 4" hole...it needs 32" to be withdrawn...plus you would need to add on to that for the flange and any fittings/protrusions.

Maybe they make them shorter now??? Is you hole 4"?

 
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Post by lzaharis » Mon. Aug. 04, 2014 1:40 pm

ShawnTRD wrote:
lzaharis wrote:What did you decide about the chimney and running angle iron from the chimney to the peak
and anchoring it there to hold the chimney more securely?
I'm going to call my Mason about it on Monday.
-----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Hello Shawn,

Just as tid bit of information to help you- the nine chimney blocks
starting at the rain gutter have a total of 54 square feet of area
exposed to the wind not including the mortar joints.

If these chimney blocks are 7-5/8 by 16 by 21 measured by the exterior size
each block has a surface area of 916 square inches equa;l to 6.36 sqaure feet +-.

 
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Post by freetown fred » Mon. Aug. 04, 2014 5:17 pm

Sounds like a good idea Shawn. Save on problems down the road:)[quote="ShawnTRD"]This is the reply I got from Keystoker. Plus now I'm thinking I'm going to turn the boiler 90°.

"Thank you for purchasing one of our products. No we still use the same domestic coil. You will only need 18" the coil is about 32" long but it can be flexed to get it in or out.

 Hope this helps,

Don Somers
Keystone Mfg"

 
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ShawnTRD
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Post by ShawnTRD » Thu. Aug. 14, 2014 12:49 pm

Got my boiler turned around now. I like it a lot better. I have 30" on the left side. Hopper is 24" . The manual calls for 6" from hopper to wall. "Clearance on blank and hopper sides should be 6”."

Image

 
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Post by crazy4coal » Thu. Aug. 14, 2014 5:28 pm

Your going to need 5' at least between the oil tank and the boiler if your in the USA and 3' if in Canada. ( Fire code)

 
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ShawnTRD
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Post by ShawnTRD » Thu. Aug. 14, 2014 7:41 pm

Then I have a problem?


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