Why Doesn't My Hitzer 503 Heat My Small House

This forum is for common products and questions such as chimney installations, CO detectors, coal bin designs and a variety of other general topics that do not fit into the other forums.
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freetown fred
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Posts: 21415
Joined: Thu. Dec. 31, 2009 12:33 pm
Hand Fed Coal Stove: HITZER 50-93
Coal Size/Type: BLASCHAK Nut
Location: Freetown,NY 13803

Post Mon. Feb. 17, 2014 6:33 pm

Good, now that your doin all that gratitude--finish fillin out your profile & put a avatar up there--hell E, nobody's gonna steal ya. Damn, it's not like HB to get all mushy like that! :clap: toothy
"A people that values it's privileges above it's principals, soon loses both"--Dwight D Eisenhower


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Emerald7
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Posts: 29
Joined: Tue. Nov. 05, 2013 5:42 am
Coal Size/Type: kimmels pea
Other Heating: budarus 4 zone boiler
Stove/Furnace Make: Hitzer 503 insert/hopper

Post Mon. Feb. 17, 2014 8:05 pm

Whats an avatar? I was just trying to relay my thankfullness from the worry and frustration about this magnificent steel stove I have.

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Emerald7
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Posts: 29
Joined: Tue. Nov. 05, 2013 5:42 am
Coal Size/Type: kimmels pea
Other Heating: budarus 4 zone boiler
Stove/Furnace Make: Hitzer 503 insert/hopper

Post Mon. Feb. 17, 2014 8:19 pm

Found it.......

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freetown fred
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Posts: 21415
Joined: Thu. Dec. 31, 2009 12:33 pm
Hand Fed Coal Stove: HITZER 50-93
Coal Size/Type: BLASCHAK Nut
Location: Freetown,NY 13803

Post Mon. Feb. 17, 2014 9:08 pm

NICE E :)
"A people that values it's privileges above it's principals, soon loses both"--Dwight D Eisenhower

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Rob R.
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Posts: 11348
Joined: Fri. Dec. 28, 2007 4:26 pm
Stoker Coal Boiler: EFM DF520
Hand Fed Coal Stove: Hitzer 50-93
Coal Size/Type: Lehigh Rice
Other Heating: Dad's 1953 EFM Highboy
Location: Chazy, NY

Post Mon. Feb. 17, 2014 9:13 pm

Glad to hear you are staying warm.

CapeCoaler
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Posts: 4429
Joined: Sun. Feb. 10, 2008 3:48 pm
Stoker Coal Boiler: want AA130
Hand Fed Coal Stove: DS Machine BS#4, Harman MKII, Hitzer 503,...
Coal Size/Type: Pea/Nut/Stove
Location: Cape Cod, MA

Post Tue. Feb. 18, 2014 11:10 pm

Hope the Knee recovers...
This is why we like pics...
As soon as I saw the low depth of coal...
The 503 is a good heater...
The other issue is the air inlet can loosen up...
Causes an overly hot fire...
The bolt behind the ash door...
I am not an engineer, train or otherwise!
I stay at a Holiday Inn at least once a year!
Most of all I do have common sense and a practical application of logic.
Oh, add humor, on the dry side, along with a wee bit 'o sarcasm.

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Emerald7
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Posts: 29
Joined: Tue. Nov. 05, 2013 5:42 am
Coal Size/Type: kimmels pea
Other Heating: budarus 4 zone boiler
Stove/Furnace Make: Hitzer 503 insert/hopper

Post Wed. Feb. 19, 2014 6:44 am

The air vents on the ash door have to be open all the way or it starves for air, so loose inlet isn't a problem. Even freshly shaken and an empty ash pan she needs the air vents wide open. When I'm home and its COLD I crack the door a bit. Also the damper is open 1/3. I can have her burning hard for a half hour or more, slide the air vents a third closed and push damper closed and within a half hour you can't see signs of a fire.

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freetown fred
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Posts: 21415
Joined: Thu. Dec. 31, 2009 12:33 pm
Hand Fed Coal Stove: HITZER 50-93
Coal Size/Type: BLASCHAK Nut
Location: Freetown,NY 13803

Post Wed. Feb. 19, 2014 7:44 am

E, try a couple days of just letting the damper 1/3 to 1/2 open all the time--just something to play with.
"A people that values it's privileges above it's principals, soon loses both"--Dwight D Eisenhower


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dcrane
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Hand Fed Coal Stove: Crane 404
Location: Duxbury, MA./Hanson MA./Brockton, MA

Post Wed. Feb. 19, 2014 7:52 am

Emerald7 wrote:The air vents on the ash door have to be open all the way or it starves for air, so loose inlet isn't a problem. Even freshly shaken and an empty ash pan she needs the air vents wide open. When I'm home and its COLD I crack the door a bit. Also the damper is open 1/3. I can have her burning hard for a half hour or more, slide the air vents a third closed and push damper closed and within a half hour you can't see signs of a fire.
typically when its real cold your draft will increase the air flow without having to open your primary draft control more (cold days i'm usually closing mine slightly and closing MPD and then turning my blower on) . Its on mild days where the draft of your chimney suffers and you may need to open those primary's to help it pull easier... Glad to see your learning her better and getting your house heated finally... Fred is absolutely right though... play around some more and make sure your giving it hours/days to test...coal works VERY slow (which is what makes it so great) unlike wood.

CapeCoaler
Member
Posts: 4429
Joined: Sun. Feb. 10, 2008 3:48 pm
Stoker Coal Boiler: want AA130
Hand Fed Coal Stove: DS Machine BS#4, Harman MKII, Hitzer 503,...
Coal Size/Type: Pea/Nut/Stove
Location: Cape Cod, MA

Post Wed. Feb. 19, 2014 1:42 pm

AS fred said...
Try leaving the damper open...
Start with 1/3...
We keep our damper closed but...
We have a very strong draft...
27 ft insulated 6" liner...
I am not an engineer, train or otherwise!
I stay at a Holiday Inn at least once a year!
Most of all I do have common sense and a practical application of logic.
Oh, add humor, on the dry side, along with a wee bit 'o sarcasm.

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Ctyankee
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Posts: 99
Joined: Fri. Dec. 23, 2011 6:19 pm
Hand Fed Coal Stove: Hitzer 503 insert
Coal Size/Type: nut and pea
Location: Danbury CT

Post Wed. Feb. 19, 2014 6:04 pm

I have found that when my insert starts begins to drop heat output, taking a poker and running it down down across the grates (front to back) seems to help. I do this after shaking and before reloading. It feels like on some of the passes that I am pushing sticky coal around. I figure that I must be breaking up something and allowing better air flow at the grates. After that, the next load seems to give a better output of heat at the same vents and damper setting.

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Lightning
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Posts: 8299
Joined: Wed. Nov. 16, 2011 9:51 am
Hand Fed Coal Furnace: Overmodified/Bored out Clayton 1537
Coal Size/Type: Anthracite/Awesome Size
Location: Olean, NY

Post Wed. Feb. 19, 2014 6:13 pm

Ctyankee wrote:I have found that when my insert starts begins to drop heat output, taking a poker and running it down down across the grates (front to back) seems to help. I do this after shaking and before reloading. It feels like on some of the passes that I am pushing sticky coal around. I figure that I must be breaking up something and allowing better air flow at the grates. After that, the next load seems to give a better output of heat at the same vents and damper setting.
I agree, I started using this technique just recently. Scour the top of the grates with an L shaped tool after shaking, then shake again. It will crush up any partially fused ash so it can drop on the second shake. Brings it back to nearly a brand new fire.. :)

rberq
Member
Posts: 5014
Joined: Mon. Apr. 16, 2007 9:34 pm
Hand Fed Coal Stove: DS Machine 1300 with hopper
Coal Size/Type: Blaschak Anthracite Nut
Other Heating: Oil hot water radiators (fuel oil); propane
Location: Central Maine

Post Wed. Feb. 19, 2014 10:26 pm

Ctyankee wrote:I have found that when my insert starts begins to drop heat output, taking a poker and running it down down across the grates (front to back) seems to help. I do this after shaking and before reloading. It feels like on some of the passes that I am pushing sticky coal around. I figure that I must be breaking up something and allowing better air flow at the grates. After that, the next load seems to give a better output of heat at the same vents and damper setting.
Yes. After 10 - 12 hours of burn time, my coal bed seems to become very low-density and porous. I don't know if that's what people refer to as bridging. After shaking the grates, I shove a poker in and then move the top of the poker back and forth in a few spots to kind of stir the coal. It causes the coal in the firebox to compact together and allows lots more coal to drop down from the hopper. Same result as you, Yankee -- better subsequent heat output. Disturbing the coal bed like that slows the fire down for a while, and it may need a lot more air until it gets burning well again.

I am just finishing up two pallets of Kimmel that has LOTS of volatiles, so in a couple days I will be starting on a pallet of Blaschak. Don't know yet if it will require the same stirring.
Simple answers for simple minds.

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Emerald7
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Posts: 29
Joined: Tue. Nov. 05, 2013 5:42 am
Coal Size/Type: kimmels pea
Other Heating: budarus 4 zone boiler
Stove/Furnace Make: Hitzer 503 insert/hopper

Post Thu. Feb. 20, 2014 3:56 pm

I also wil run my poker along the sides and push the burnt coal down from the front with a shovel after a shake and then shake again. This technique seems to get more of the ash out of the firebox.

User avatar
Emerald7
Member
Posts: 29
Joined: Tue. Nov. 05, 2013 5:42 am
Coal Size/Type: kimmels pea
Other Heating: budarus 4 zone boiler
Stove/Furnace Make: Hitzer 503 insert/hopper

Post Tue. Oct. 14, 2014 6:59 am

OK, so we made it through the summer with some heart aches and a lot of labor. Now it's time to start thinking about firing up the coal stove. My first question to all of you knowledgable people is what to do with my COAL ASH. Next question; what is the best brand of anthrachite coal to burn?


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