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Chimney is block. Solid core 4 inch thick x 8 inch wide x 16 long on edge. Two 8 x 8 clay flues side by side. Between second and third rows down from poured chimney cap the joint has sperated all the way around horizontally. Called the mason. He looked at it. 35 feet from ground to top. He said he has seen this before. With the poured cement cap the clay flues expand differenly than the block in the cold weather and cause a seperation. Warm weather fix of course. Have to use binoculars to see it well. I took some digital pictures but you have to zoom all the way in to see it. So sorry- no pictures. Bet it is lifted up to a 1/4 inch in places. Mason said he'll cut flues loose, chisle out old motar and repoint it. I asked many question how a water tight seal will be possible from this point forward. He had answers.

Any ever see this before?

Steve

I wouldn't worry about it. horizontal cracking isn't great, but it's not much of an issue - if there's actual separation it will need to be sealed or rebuilt because it will continue to deteriorate over the years.

This is why you don't put flues tight to the chase. You use sill-seal around the tile going through the crown before it's poured - then cut off excess sil-seal once dry, caulk w/ polysulf or polyurethane caulk/sealant. I don't even pour crowns tight to the chase; reinforced crown sits on plastic sheet acting as bond/moisture break between crown and stack chase; underside of crown is caulked tight to stack chase after forms have been removed and the cure and seal has dried.

Berlin wrote:I wouldn't worry about it. horizontal cracking isn't great, but it's not much of an issue - if there's actual separation it will need to be sealed or rebuilt because it will continue to deteriorate over the years.

This is why you don't put flues tight to the chase. You use sill-seal around the tile going through the crown before it's poured - then cut off excess sil-seal once dry, caulk w/ polysulf or polyurethane caulk/sealant. I don't even pour crowns tight to the chase; reinforced crown sits on plastic sheet acting as bond/moisture break between crown and stack chase; underside of crown is caulked tight to stack chase after forms have been removed and the cure and seal has dried.

Berlin,

Super fast response, sir! Sill seal and caulk is what the mason recomended after cutting it loose. So, it should have been done that way in the first place....

Berlin wrote:I wouldn't worry about it. horizontal cracking isn't great, but it's not much of an issue - if there's actual separation it will need to be sealed or rebuilt because it will continue to deteriorate over the years.

This is why you don't put flues tight to the chase. You use sill-seal around the tile going through the crown before it's poured - then cut off excess sil-seal once dry, caulk w/ polysulf or polyurethane caulk/sealant. I don't even pour crowns tight to the chase; reinforced crown sits on plastic sheet acting as bond/moisture break between crown and stack chase; underside of crown is caulked tight to stack chase after forms have been removed and the cure and seal has dried.

I guess we know what Berlin does for a living

dcrane wrote:

Berlin wrote:I wouldn't worry about it. horizontal cracking isn't great, but it's not much of an issue - if there's actual separation it will need to be sealed or rebuilt because it will continue to deteriorate over the years.

This is why you don't put flues tight to the chase. You use sill-seal around the tile going through the crown before it's poured - then cut off excess sil-seal once dry, caulk w/ polysulf or polyurethane caulk/sealant. I don't even pour crowns tight to the chase; reinforced crown sits on plastic sheet acting as bond/moisture break between crown and stack chase; underside of crown is caulked tight to stack chase after forms have been removed and the cure and seal has dried.

Say Huh.jpg

I guess we know what Berlin does for a living

Nope just a hobby