Barometric Help

Gentleshepherd · Post by **Gentleshepherd** » Sun. Nov. 17, 2013 2:57 pm

Fire went out.

Gentleshepherd · Post by **Gentleshepherd** » Sun. Nov. 17, 2013 3:00 pm

Just check and damper was open all the way. Fire out! Not making sense to me.

Post by **Lightning** » Sun. Nov. 17, 2013 3:02 pm

THe fire went out possibly cuz there wasn't enough call for heat? Stoker gurus, help this guy out

Gentleshepherd · Post by **Gentleshepherd** » Sun. Nov. 17, 2013 3:08 pm

In 10 years of having this furnace this is the 1st time I have ever had this problem.

Post by **Lightning** » Sun. Nov. 17, 2013 3:16 pm

Did you change coal suppliers? Your new exhaust arrangement probably has something to do with it. Can't imagine what.

Dennis · Post by **Dennis** » Sun. Nov. 17, 2013 3:16 pm

Gentleshepherd wrote:Photo 1 Shows damper closed when furnace is firing
Photo 2 Shows Damper whne furnace is done firing.
Photo 3 SHows damper about 30 seconds after furnace is done firing.

Everything seems to be working properly, no issues. Any comments would be appreciated.

look at the baro plate pins from the side of the baro.My baro pins cut a groove in the baro housing and would get stuck and not function propperly

Post by **Lightning** » Sun. Nov. 17, 2013 3:18 pm

Gentleshepherd wrote:I have a Hot Air Keystoker and I re-routed my furnace pipes today and move my barometric damper from the end of a T to the MIddle of a T and it is now on a Diagonal T. I fired up my furnace today and can't get the damper to close. It stays open all of the time and that's even with the control set to the lowest or highest bracket. My question is this, can I run it with the damper open full bore? I can't get anyone local until Monday to look at it.

Thanks.
From Shamokin

How about more info about the "re-routing" of your furnace pipes..

Carbon12 · Post by **Carbon12** » Sun. Nov. 17, 2013 3:26 pm

Could 9 inch damper be too small to regulate the draft in a 10 inch flue feeding it right at the reduction regardless of damper weight setting???

Carbon12 · Post by **Carbon12** » Sun. Nov. 17, 2013 3:28 pm

The larger volume of exhaust accelerating at the reduction could be pulling a lot of draft right at that point. Bernoulli Effect??? Where's Sting? This sounds right up his alley!

Gentleshepherd · Post by **Gentleshepherd** » Sun. Nov. 17, 2013 3:31 pm

10 inch elbow off of furnace to 9inch reducer and then 9 inch T, Damper in off leg of T, T is reduced to 8 to 7 and then 6 to go in chimney.

Except for the 9Inch T everything else is pretty much the same pipes, just a different layout.

Post by **Lightning** » Sun. Nov. 17, 2013 3:32 pm

I still think you need a manometer.. Guessing why your draft is opening that baro door isn't gonna cover it

Rigar · Post by **Rigar** » Sun. Nov. 17, 2013 3:34 pm

..again
...what diameter is furnace flu outlet ??
...your baro should not be smaller diameter. than exhaust pipe...
it would take an excessive overdraft to burn ur fire out before a timed cycle kicks in...
have you changed any thing else ??

Rigar · Post by **Rigar** » Sun. Nov. 17, 2013 3:36 pm

so 10 ". to eventually 6"....suprised it opens at all! lol
...tall chimney ??

Post by **Lightning** » Sun. Nov. 17, 2013 3:38 pm

That's what I was thinking too. The baro is actually over sized so that shouldn't be the problem..

Carbon12 · Post by **Carbon12** » Sun. Nov. 17, 2013 3:39 pm

6 inch only gives about 35% of the square inches of area as 10 inch. That's at least part of the problem. Not sure you're supposed to reduce that much