Barometric Help

This forum is for common products and questions such as chimney installations, CO detectors, coal bin designs and a variety of other general topics that do not fit into the other forums.
Gentleshepherd
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Stove/Furnace Make: Keystoker
Stove/Furnace Model: 200,000 BTU Hot Air

Post Sat. Nov. 16, 2013 7:58 pm

I have a Hot Air Keystoker and I re-routed my furnace pipes today and move my barometric damper from the end of a T to the MIddle of a T and it is now on a Diagonal T. I fired up my furnace today and can't get the damper to close. It stays open all of the time and that's even with the control set to the lowest or highest bracket. My question is this, can I run it with the damper open full bore? I can't get anyone local until Monday to look at it.

Thanks.
From Shamokin


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Carbon12
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Post Sat. Nov. 16, 2013 10:11 pm

Make sure it's plumb. If it has two different slides for the weight try the other slide. One slide is for a vertical smoke pipe, the other is for horizontal. Diagonal is a crap shoot for which to use.
No matter where you go,......there you are.

franco b
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Post Sat. Nov. 16, 2013 10:16 pm

A line across the two pivot points should be level and the damper should close. If not I would block it off with aluminum foil until the draft could be read with a manometer and the barometric set .

Gentleshepherd
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Post Sat. Nov. 16, 2013 10:25 pm

FOr some wierd reason it started to work. When the Thermostat calls for heat and the fan kicks in, it now closes, and then opens up a bit when the cycle is done, I will keep an eye on it until I can get someone to look at it on Monday. I don't quote understand the almuninum foil concept, could you explain it for me.

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Carbon12
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Post Sat. Nov. 16, 2013 10:34 pm

A barometric damper keeps you from having too much draft over the fire and sending heat up the chimney. If the flapper is stuck open, the barometric damper will reduce draft over the fire, possibly to zero which might result in combustion gasses coming out into the house. Putting foil over the damper usually maintains the draft over the fire, probably too much draft but that will virtually ensure no exhaust comes into the house. You might lose some heat up the chimney with the foil over the damper but most likely all the flu gases will go where they're supposed to.
No matter where you go,......there you are.

Rigar
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Hot Air Coal Stoker Furnace: Keystoker A 150
Coal Size/Type: anthracite rice
Stove/Furnace Make: Keystoker
Stove/Furnace Model: A 150 warm air furnace
Location: central new york (syracuse area)

Post Sat. Nov. 16, 2013 11:36 pm

Gentleshepherd wrote:FOr some wierd reason it started to work. When the Thermostat calls for heat and the fan kicks in, it now closes, and then opens up a bit when the cycle is done, I will keep an eye on it until I can get someone to look at it on Monday. I don't quote understand the almuninum foil concept, could you explain it for me.
...cover the baro for now...or fasten it shut till someone can look at it-if your air handler is causing it to close...something isnt right- pics would be helpful
....'Rigar

waldo lemieux
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Post Sun. Nov. 17, 2013 8:16 am

Gentleshepherd wrote:From Shamokin
:woot: Sharon(Stone) is that you? :idhitit:
When faced with a seemingly impossible task, my grandfather always said "can't never can, untill try comes along"

Gentleshepherd
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Post Sun. Nov. 17, 2013 12:25 pm

Photo 1 Shows damper closed when furnace is firing
Photo 2 Shows Damper whne furnace is done firing.
Photo 3 SHows damper about 30 seconds after furnace is done firing.

Everything seems to be working properly, no issues. Any comments would be appreciated.
Attachments
Photo1.jpg
Photo2.jpg
Photo3.jpg


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Lightning
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Post Sun. Nov. 17, 2013 12:44 pm

It must take a lot of draft to open the baro door by the looks of where that weight is set. Do you have a manometer hooked up? I'm a bit puzzled too.. Tell us about the chimney. Interior? Height?

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Carbon12
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Post Sun. Nov. 17, 2013 2:29 pm

Is it me or is that shiny new T into which hangs a rusty old Barometric Damper fitted right after a diameter reducing ring???
No matter where you go,......there you are.

Gentleshepherd
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Post Sun. Nov. 17, 2013 2:32 pm

Yes, that is correct, the old T was a 10 and I reduced it to a 9 to fit the damper.

The old T was a 10 with a reducer to a 9 to fit the damper.

Could that be the problem?

Rigar
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Hot Air Coal Stoker Furnace: Keystoker A 150
Coal Size/Type: anthracite rice
Stove/Furnace Make: Keystoker
Stove/Furnace Model: A 150 warm air furnace
Location: central new york (syracuse area)

Post Sun. Nov. 17, 2013 2:36 pm

the sequence of whats happening in your pics seems fine...
i was under the impression that the baro was being affected by the comvection blower...(air handler)
....'Rigar

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Carbon12
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Location: Harrisburg, PA

Post Sun. Nov. 17, 2013 2:37 pm

Not sure. Might be since you didn't change anything else. Will have to ruminate over the implications a bit. Maybe others will chime in. My first inclination would be to have the same diameter damper as original smoke pipe diameter. Usually they recommend, if necessary, reducing diameter of smoke pipe at the thimble.
No matter where you go,......there you are.

Rigar
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Posts: 857
Joined: Tue. Dec. 04, 2012 6:30 am
Hot Air Coal Stoker Furnace: Keystoker A 150
Coal Size/Type: anthracite rice
Stove/Furnace Make: Keystoker
Stove/Furnace Model: A 150 warm air furnace
Location: central new york (syracuse area)

Post Sun. Nov. 17, 2013 2:38 pm

Gentleshepherd wrote:Yes, that is correct, the old T was a 10 and I reduced it to a 9 to fit the damper.

The old T was a 10 with a reducer to a 9 to fit the damper.

Could that be the problem?
...what diameter is the stoves outlet ???
....'Rigar

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Lightning
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Hand Fed Coal Furnace: Overmodified/Bored out Clayton 1537
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Post Sun. Nov. 17, 2013 2:48 pm

I would get a manometer before replacing any pipe or tees.. Its hard to guess what is happening. You could be sucking heat out of the stoker without realizing it if that chimney pulls that hard..


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