New Guy From Binghamton Ny K8 Questions

Carbon12 · Post by **Carbon12** » Thu. Nov. 07, 2013 9:53 am

http://www.pexuniverse.com/content/how-size-circulator-pump

Carbon12 · Post by **Carbon12** » Thu. Nov. 07, 2013 10:03 am

http://www.usacoil.com/newsletters/aug.pdf

McGiever · Post by **McGiever** » Thu. Nov. 07, 2013 10:11 am

Carbon12 wrote:Wherever you order the coil from should be able to tell you with some certainty what circulator pump you need.

Actually, there needs to be a few variables factored in to determine what size coil and what size pump is required.
Besides the dimensions of the coil these all factor in together... entering water temp at the coil,, flow rate of that water through the coil, the air cfm blowing through/across the coil to achive a desired air temp output [btu/hr].
The output changes as any one item changes.
Did I mention I like 3 speed pumps.

edit to add...c12 has added some good info.

g1625s · Post by **g1625s** » Fri. Nov. 08, 2013 6:33 am

hey guys thank you for all the great suggestions.I am on the road driving semi so have not been able to check in on this until just now. I will be home this afternoon and will try to get some pictures of where my setup will be. hopefully over the weekend and the first few days off next week I will be able to get everything in placez I have to remove the exhaust for my water heater and oil furnace in order to make room for the key Stoker therefore it all kind of has to happen at once or I will be without heat and hot water.

Carbon12 · Post by **Carbon12** » Fri. Nov. 08, 2013 9:24 am

Make sure you have EVERYTHING you know you need and a lot of extra odds and ends that you don't know you need. Inevitably there will be something you desperately need and can't immediately find or purchase. Under perfect conditions I would schedule 3 days from start to finish for install if you're doing it by yourself. Less if you have a gang of competent helpers. I hope you Get Er Done fast! Don't know where you are but some computer models are calling for a significant snow event in the Northeast next week!

Carbon12 · Post by **Carbon12** » Fri. Nov. 08, 2013 9:29 am

Duh,...Binghamton! Not sure if they are calling for snow in your area or not

Post by **Rob R.** » Fri. Nov. 08, 2013 10:05 am

Looking forwards to the pictures and the final report.

g1625s · Post by **g1625s** » Sat. Nov. 09, 2013 7:56 am

Ok, neede a good nights sleep to wrap my brain around this process. I'm not going to rush things, if its done by wednesday, great. If not, I can finish next weekend. The plan for the next day or so is to get sll the boiler and dhw roughef in. I see some pictures showing black pipe used. I thought that was a no-no, or is that only when dealing with domestic water? Also, how far from the domestic exchanger do I have to run metal pipe before I switch to pex? When I get photobucket to cooperate, I'll post up some pics of my mess.

Carbon12 · Post by **Carbon12** » Sat. Nov. 09, 2013 8:40 am

Run copper as far as possible from the boiler before PEX or PVC. I'd guesstimate 10 feet at least. Be sure to put a back flow preventing valve in the cold water supply.

McGiever · Post by **McGiever** » Sat. Nov. 09, 2013 8:54 am

Black pipe works great, just that threading custom pieces requires using a threading machine.

Big savings over using precious metals.

Carbon12 · Post by **Carbon12** » Sat. Nov. 09, 2013 8:59 am

10 feet or more copper before PEX on cold water supply line. Tying PEX into hot water line I'm not sure about. I hope you're using a tempering valve on the DHW.

Carbon12 · Post by **Carbon12** » Sat. Nov. 09, 2013 9:03 am

Yup, I like black pipe for near boiler piping except the threading is a pain. I just got an assortment of nipple lengths and some unions and hoped for the best. It all worked out perfectly, thank goodness. I've threaded black pipe manually without an electric threader,.....boy that's a pain!

g1625s · Post by **g1625s** » Sat. Nov. 09, 2013 9:37 am

Ok, so the exchanger I'm looking at will have 1'' in/out. Main send and return ftom boiler will be inch and a quarter black pipe with bypass loop being inch black pipe. Figure on stepping down to inch near the exchanger and transition to copper at that time. I have access to an electric threader, so just gonna grab some stock of both sizes and all the tees elbows and ball valves detailed in the stoker manual. Yes I will be using a mixing valve on dhw. Can I just run regular steel pipe for dhw? I only ask because my solder skills are so-so...

McGiever · Post by **McGiever** » Sat. Nov. 09, 2013 10:39 am

You could use regular steel/galvanized for potential temps over 200* between boiler coil and mixing valve...then continue in PEX plastic, since high temps are protected by mixing valve. Boiler install is not a time to learn a new skill...soldering.

Use plenty of valves for isolating components and don't forget those unions for easy disconnect without a saw.

Post by **Rob R.** » Sat. Nov. 09, 2013 11:23 am

If you have threading equipment, use black iron for the boiler piping. Copper or pex for domestic.