Piping for a Direct Vent.

Looking for advice. Going to install a direct vent onto a Pioneer and was planning of coming straight out the back. When a guy who use to install stoves suggested coming out of the stove into a 90 to get past the hopper, than up about 30" were the damper would go. Another 90 after that and exiting the wall. Which way do guys usually hook them up.

ddersch4 wrote:Looking for advice. Going to install a direct vent onto a Pioneer and was planning of coming straight out the back. When a guy who use to install stoves suggested coming out of the stove into a 90 to get past the hopper, than up about 30" were the damper would go. Another 90 after that and exiting the wall. Which way do guys usually hook them up.

It will work either way. The new PV blowers are a little less prone to blocking but doing a vertical run before is not a bad idea. It does keep some fly ash from getting to the vent. You will see more ash in the outlet area which is easy to clean and check when emptying the ashes. It seems to work a little more efficient as well. Just my 2cents anyway.

I guess keeping as mush flyash away from the power vent would cause less headaches. I seen a post were a guy put a manometer on his Keystoker. Is a manometer required or just a barometric damper good enough?

ddersch4 wrote:I guess keeping as mush flyash away from the power vent would cause less headaches. I seen a post were a guy put a manometer on his Keystoker. Is a manometer required or just a barometric damper good enough?

EDIT! I removed my comments about using a borometric damper as it should not be used with a direct vent system. Samhill caugt it- thank goodnes!

No, a manometer is not required, but you should install at least one. The manometer is the gauge that will measure the draft that the direct vent is creating. A low manometer reading will notify you that it's time to clean the stove pipe of fly ash. Many operators install two manometers; one measuring over-fire draft and another one in the stove pipe. It's much safer to know what's going on with the draft when burning coal then to rely on the shutoff switch or the CO detector going off

Any picture on were the manometers go. Will probably install one in the stove pipe, but not sure were to put it? Closer to the stove before the barometric damper or after the damper by the power vent.

ddersch4 wrote:Any picture on were the manometers go. Will probably install one in the stove pipe, but not sure were to put it? Closer to the stove before the barometric damper or after the damper by the power vent.

The search feature in the upper right (your right ) will help locate threads for any topic. This thread, manometer install, is well developed with lots of ideas.

I'm by far no expert but I was under the impression that you didn't want a damper on a direct vent, does anyone know for sure? Wouldn't the direct vent be trying to push the pressure past the damper instead of having a draft draw the damper open?

samhill wrote:I'm by far no expert but I was under the impression that you didn't want a damper on a direct vent, does anyone know for sure? Wouldn't the direct vent be trying to push the pressure past the damper instead of having a draft draw the damper open?

My bad I miss read tithe first post and thought it w about a power vent system.
Samhill is on the money - never use a barometric damper with a direct vent system. Direct vent systems must be sealed downstream from the blower. However, you should still continue thinking about installing at least one manometers.

VigIIPeaBurner wrote:

samhill wrote:I'm by far no expert but I was under the impression that you didn't want a damper on a direct vent, does anyone know for sure? Wouldn't the direct vent be trying to push the pressure past the damper instead of having a draft draw the damper open?

My bad I miss read tithe first post and thought it w about a power vent system.
Samhill is on the money - never use a barometric damper with a direct vent system. Direct vent systems must be sealed downstream from the blower. However, you should still continue thinking about installing at least one manometers.

He is talking about a powervent system. We do not use a direct vent system. A lot has to do with what is mentioned about having a pressurized pipe. I just don't like the idea. A pipe with a vacuum just seems to make sense. And to answer yes you use a Baro with a PV system. With the baro there is a calibrated scale it is pretty accurate as long as it is installed plumb and level. So if you set it at -.04 and it is open just a little you will have -.04 between the baro and the stove so that the baro basically becomes the manometer.

Guess that's my mistake Flyer, I just went by the title & question asked & didn't want any dangerous info put out.

samhill wrote:Guess that's my mistake Flyer, I just went by the title & question asked & didn't want any dangerous info put out.

That goes double for me too !

Flyer5 should the baro always be open? Basically if the baro is closed than you should know the stove pipe does not have acquit negative pressure. Also, does Leisure Line have a minimum vertical requirement for the rear vent stoves?

ddersch4 wrote:Flyer5 should the baro always be open? Basically if the baro is closed than you should know the stove pipe does not have acquit negative pressure. Also, does Leisure Line have a minimum vertical requirement for the rear vent stoves?

Just a little with a powervent. Just a visible gauge.

Not sure what you mean by min vertical requirement? If for the pipe with a powervent, then no.

Is a Barometric vent needed with a powervent? I would think the pull would always be constant since it is mechanical.

ddersch4 wrote:Is a Barometric vent needed with a powervent? I would think the pull would always be constant since it is mechanical.

Yes a Baro is needed for steady draft control. Our pvs come with a baro and T.