Keystoker A250 Power Vent Suggestions

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Joined: Fri. Dec. 21, 2007 8:59 pm
Stove/Furnace Make: keystoker
Stove/Furnace Model: A250
Location: Schuylkill County Pa

Post Fri. Dec. 21, 2007 9:25 pm

I acquired a very good A250 Keystoker warm air furnace.
I am using it to supplement a heat pump forced air Home Garage system.
Due to the shape of the Home and furnace placement in Garage, I can't erect a masonry chimney.
I want to use a power venter and need some advise.
My stoker has a 10 inch vent and to go stainless with a power venter is going to be costly from initial estimates.
I want to ask the viewers if anyone has used a power venter with a Keystoker A250 or 350 and which model is best.
From reading the forums for the last 4 hours I don't see any links, but My newbie eyes might have missed some links.
I am concerned If I find one I might have to use a Rheostat to dampen the power venter for heat loss reasons and noise.
Any insight would be most appreciated!!
Dealer will most likely not give up too much info on this due to not buying the unit from them. ??
Pipe length is approx 8 feet from furnace to power venter. 1 elbow

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Post Fri. Dec. 21, 2007 10:20 pm

I would call the powerventer manufacturer and see what they have to say. The A250 is meant to run into a 10" chimney, Keystoker says you could run a 8" pipe (unofficially) I almost bought one but didn't after I found out how much 10" triple wall pipe cost which was before I fixed my masonry chimney. The pipe was more than the furnace.
Burning coal is definitely worth the extra work involved.
"Good enough" is not good enough.

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Post Fri. Dec. 21, 2007 10:30 pm

I don't know if this one is applicable, but it has some sizing info. It doesn't say it here, but I think this piece is used by one manufacturer in a modified form.
Nothing is impossible for people who don't have to do it themselves.

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Stoker Coal Boiler: Leisure Line WL110 Dual Fuel, natural gas
Hot Air Coal Stoker Stove: Leisure Line Lil' Heater (rental house)
Coal Size/Type: Rice and Buckwheat Anthracite
Location: Wilkes Barre, PA

Post Fri. Dec. 21, 2007 11:07 pm

There is an SWG 5HD on ebay (290,000 btu)
**Broken Link(s) Removed**It's not stainless but for a starter setup it might get you going. SWG doesn't list coal as an approved fuel and yet the SWG 4HDs is supplied with both Alaska and Liesure Line stoves. Before you plan on using anything though you need to talk with your local Fire Marshal and Insurance agent to make sure you will not cause yourself some issues or even worse loss of your home later on! :shock:

The folks at Keystoker are very helpful, I would also give them a call and see what they say.
Leisure Line Stove Company

Jerry & Karen
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Location: Berwick, pa

Post Sat. Dec. 22, 2007 2:21 pm

Hi Coalfarmer,
You need to take a look at the BTU draw on the PV and compare it to the furnace. Calculate the pipe and how long the run. A 4" Swg-HDs will draw up to 160,000 BTU. As far as the UL on the PV, I (leisure line) have had my own testing done and I own the UL approval for coal with the Leisure Line stove and the Fields Control PV. I also sell 5" stainless steel PVs for special orders. Some of the other stove mfg's recommend 4" pipe from the stove out. We tell the customer to go to 4" at the venter. Fly ash is a problem with smaller pipe diameters. I'm sure you'll be happy with your purchase, Key makes a great product.
Good Luck,

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Posts: 2
Joined: Fri. Dec. 21, 2007 8:59 pm
Stove/Furnace Make: keystoker
Stove/Furnace Model: A250
Location: Schuylkill County Pa

Post Sun. Dec. 23, 2007 8:20 am

I appreciate all of your input on this! The real question is since I have a 250,000 BTU output at max what Power veter can safely handle my piping load. I am afraid Key will say to use 10 inch for a masonry chimney, but what pro's and con's will be there if I downsize to a
smaller pipe and use the SWG stainless PV. I have white siding on the house and don't want fly ash problems so, if I can reduce to say 6,7 inch pipe,I can get a smaller SWG 6s to handle the load and minimize fly ash.I did not get any input from Key experts yet on power venters due to Holidays.
I factored my pipe lengths for a 10-8 reducer,8 elbow,8 tee and 4ft 8 "pipe to be 72 ft{ 66 ft for a 7inch setup}{59 ft for a 6 inch setup}
I am a littel scared to to go 10-6 with a power venter if fly ash will be a factor, but these power venters are $$$$ the more you go up in size! No input from SWG yet due to Holidays. Will have to wait I guess!
Thanks Again for responding !

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Post Sun. Dec. 23, 2007 9:28 am

Hi coalfarmer, the only way you will reduce the flyash is to burn less coal. So no matter how you look at it, putting a PV on this furnace that is designed for a 10" vent is going to concentrate the flyash at the PV unit. [like a funnel] That will be the issue, as well as sizing the PV for the output of the furnace.

If you design the flue pipes between the stove and the PV so that you have TEEs where elbow would work, with end caps over the unused leg of the TEEs, you can design a vent system that can be cleaned quite quickly with a good shop vac. Just remove the endcaps, vacuum out the flyash, and hopefully the entrance to the PV, then reinstall the end caps.

The only problem I see with what you are trying to do is that PV units don't last 'forever', but Masonry chimneys do last just about forever. So the money spent on replacing the PV every few years will soon equal the cost of a masonry chimney. We haven't seen your layout of your home and garage so we can't help with ideas for setting up a chimney.

Just some thoughts.

Greg L
Burning Pea/Buckwheat through an antique stoker [semi retired SSboiler],
Running an Axeman-Anderson 260M boiler burning Pea, About 150-250#per day
Farming, Fixing, Fabricating and Flying: 'spare time' what's that?

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