I know -- I know -- Its him again
but the only correct answer to your [ONE] question is " It depends"
Do you have the contraption set to limit scald or limit cold
if one yes -- if two NO
or is that backwards are you piped to limit heat or pass heat or limit cold or pass cold
or will we pass home and collect $200.00 dollars
let me get back to you on that
Mixing Valve Recommendations??
Well, if you had read my original post, you would have learned that I am installing an "antiscald,mixing, tempering" contraption, that will limit scald or the temperature of the hot water...because my tankless cannot have incoming water over 120F. So, now I have learned that "yes" it will continue to flow 90F water or thereabouts when the hot water is 90F and the valve is set at 100F.Sting wrote:I know -- I know -- Its him again
but the only correct answer to your [ONE] question is " It depends"
Do you have the contraption set to limit scald or limit cold
if one yes -- if two NO
or is that backwards are you piped to limit heat or pass heat or limit cold or pass cold
or will we pass home and collect $200.00 dollars
let me get back to you on that
- Sting
- Member
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- Joined: Mon. Feb. 25, 2008 4:24 pm
- Location: Lower Fox Valley = Wisconsin
- Other Heating: OBSO Lennox Pulse "Air Scorcher" burning NG
And I have that _ its why I am taking the time to pick on this
Now you have two distinct valves to ponder about. Both with their specific job in normal life = and YOU have the possibility of piping then in three different configurations [or some such exponential] depending on how you want to don't want them to work
This is what I want you to think about. This is the water that not just you but your family will be washing their pink parts in and it must NOT leave the tap above 120 degrees. This is not just code its common "cents"
I cannot reach across the public internet and see in your basement so you have to decide how to do this. you have to be your own engineer
You have about one chance in six to get it right - this rig is on the level of Yanche engineering and his Stengilinhower books - well above a common DIY plumber
Good luck with that!
Kind Regards
Sting
Now you have two distinct valves to ponder about. Both with their specific job in normal life = and YOU have the possibility of piping then in three different configurations [or some such exponential] depending on how you want to don't want them to work
This is what I want you to think about. This is the water that not just you but your family will be washing their pink parts in and it must NOT leave the tap above 120 degrees. This is not just code its common "cents"
I cannot reach across the public internet and see in your basement so you have to decide how to do this. you have to be your own engineer
You have about one chance in six to get it right - this rig is on the level of Yanche engineering and his Stengilinhower books - well above a common DIY plumber
Good luck with that!
Kind Regards
Sting
-
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- Location: central new york (syracuse area)
- Hot Air Coal Stoker Furnace: Keystoker A 150
- Coal Size/Type: anthracite rice
Bverwolf
..concerning your on demand ..or tankless water heater...what is the reason it CANNOT have incoming water over 100 degrees..??
Im under the impression that it simply wont fire...or "turn on"..
Which if that is the case than allow 120 degree water to it through the anti scald ( mixing ) valve.
On days the there is plenty of hot ( stored) water...your tankless would never fire.
Obviously..on days u are not heating..and ( stored) hot water is cooler...incoming water to your tankless will at least be somewhat tempered....either way-
The valve u mentioned earlier should work fine...
And if I am off base on the reason your tankless heater can not handle "hot" incoming water...kindly disregard...
..good luck with this project
..concerning your on demand ..or tankless water heater...what is the reason it CANNOT have incoming water over 100 degrees..??
Im under the impression that it simply wont fire...or "turn on"..
Which if that is the case than allow 120 degree water to it through the anti scald ( mixing ) valve.
On days the there is plenty of hot ( stored) water...your tankless would never fire.
Obviously..on days u are not heating..and ( stored) hot water is cooler...incoming water to your tankless will at least be somewhat tempered....either way-
The valve u mentioned earlier should work fine...
And if I am off base on the reason your tankless heater can not handle "hot" incoming water...kindly disregard...
..good luck with this project
-
- Member
- Posts: 2270
- Joined: Sun. Sep. 30, 2012 8:20 pm
- Location: Ithaca,NY
Bverwolf,
Your trying to put the mixing valve on the wrong side of the tankless. Put it on the downstream side. hook the tank to the hot side ,the cold to the tankless and the house to the mix. should work fine; no max input issues. The cold side of the valve is misleading its always hooked to warm water. I think this Sting guy has been in the closet with the pvc glue a little too long
Waldo
Your trying to put the mixing valve on the wrong side of the tankless. Put it on the downstream side. hook the tank to the hot side ,the cold to the tankless and the house to the mix. should work fine; no max input issues. The cold side of the valve is misleading its always hooked to warm water. I think this Sting guy has been in the closet with the pvc glue a little too long
Waldo
Well, I'm not sure what happens when incoming water is over 120F "which is the limit", but the manufacturer says it will damage the tankless unit. I thought I would temper it down to 100F -110F before the tankless heater just to be on the safe side as I know on a cold day or after all night the water in the tank heated by the coil in the stove is definitely over 120F.Rigar wrote:Bverwolf
..concerning your on demand ..or tankless water heater...what is the reason it CANNOT have incoming water over 100 degrees..??
Im under the impression that it simply wont fire...or "turn on"..
Which if that is the case than allow 120 degree water to it through the anti scald ( mixing ) valve.
On days the there is plenty of hot ( stored) water...your tankless would never fire.
Obviously..on days u are not heating..and ( stored) hot water is cooler...incoming water to your tankless will at least be somewhat tempered....either way-
The valve u mentioned earlier should work fine...
And if I am off base on the reason your tankless heater can not handle "hot" incoming water...kindly disregard...
..good luck with this project
Thanks!
Ben