Coalpail.com Forum

With the help of Matthaus, we have decided to start a Manometer Loaner program. The way it will work is like this. Depending on the number of people responding, either one or two Dwyer Manometers will be sent out to the first person requesting to use the Manometer. Once 'borrower' #1 is done with the Manometer [ no more that one week please], then 'borrower' #1 will mail the Manometer to 'borrower' #2, and so on.

Matthaus has offered to be the person to recieve PM's to track who is next to get the Manometer, and to give the address to the current 'borrower' to send the manometer on to the next user.

The 'kit' that Matthaus will send out will have the items needed to measure your draft in your flue or in the firebox.
The kit will include:
the Dwyer Manometer
hose
metal tube [probe] for inserting into flue or stove
drill bit for drilling hole for the probe.
Directions.
List of parts to check before sending to next user [we don't want to shortchange the next user!! ]
PLEASE be carefull to keep the kit complete.

The user or borrower will need to have an electric drill motor
and have some high temp tape to cover the hole in your flue or stove.

If there is a very high demand I will also provide a second Manometer to get two kits in
circulation.

This loaner program will allow people who are 'just currious' to see what the draft is in their
stove and chimney setup. Some folks will decide they want to own a manometer, I'm trying to
get a wholesale price on a quantity purchase of maybe ten manometers at a time... I'll have to see
what the interest is, [and the price] I don't want to own five or ten item$$ that I only need one of.

The loaner program will also allow for a 'one time' check to see if your barometric damper's factory scale
is close to being accurate.

So to get this started, PM Matthaus to get on the list. First come first sent. If the demand is high enough that one
Manometer won't be able to make it's rounds to all the people on the list, I'll make a kit and mail out my spare Manometer to the next person on Matthaus's list.

So lets see how much interest there is...

Greg L
.

Good idea!! If the metal probe was small enough, if you have the sheet metal screws holding your pipe together, just remove one and insert the probe, then you don't have to drill a hole?

I just picked up a couple off eBay and sold one to a local guy and probably use the other one on the other stove.

What model Dwyers are these? I've got a magnehelic, but the scale is wrong for this application. I've been looking for a digital on ebay, but they sell for a lot of $$$

I'll see what I can find that is that small, hopefully can have it ready before someone requests the kit. The manometers are Dwyer MK II Model 40s and read in MM but have arrows for .02" WC (red) and .04" WC (green). The main reason for using these besides the fact that they are cheap is that they have valves on the high and low tube adapters so you can keep the oil in the unit while in shipment. I will include instructions for properly closing the valves.

OK, who is going to be first in line?

My spare manometer is a Dwyer MarkII model 25, which reads from -.05 to .30" of wc. It is a bit easier to read than Matthaus's model 40, but doesn't have valves, or a stand to keep it upright. So mine would need to be leveled either by screwing it to a wall or maybe I can find time to make a base for it if it needs to get in circulation.

I think I can find some rubber caps to keep the red fluid in the unit while it is in the mail.

BTW a huge thanks to Matthaus for helping, it's not like he doesn't have a 'few' projects underway!!

Greg L

I'll soon know if there is much of a price break for a wholesale volume purchase from Dwyer.

http://www.monstermarketplace.com/Home/Landing307a931.html

This place has the cheapest price I've seen on them, $21.95. I found it after I bought one from ebay when someone had 5 of them listed. I haven't installed mine yet. The loaner program is a great and generous idea. You guys are too much. I'd really like to make the next get together in the spring and actually meet everyone. Picking up a couple tons of coal at the breaker would be nice also.

If any of the members in my neck of the woods would like to borrow my manometer, let me know, we could meet up somewhere. It doesn't have the valves, so I store it upright, I may have some rubber caps that will fit on it.

Please note the scale on the model 25 john [wood'nCoal] shows above. If you buy a manometer, you want the expanded scale as shown here, from 0 to 1. The most common setting [shown] is .05", so the red fluid will be halfway between the 0 and the first major mark which is .1 So only about 1/2" of red fluid will be visible. If you get the model 27 [the link in previous message], the scale is not expanded as much, and only about 1/4" of fluid will be visible.

If you are spending your cash you might as well get the best unit for our application.

Greg L

OK, took Dave's suggestion, the kit will include 2 ways to access your stove pipe through screw holes so no drill bit included, there is a larger metal tube probe as well for insertion into fire box access holes. I verified that it works so the kit is on it's way to Av8r tomorrow and then on to ken, any body else that wants it just PM me and I'll add you to the list.

Great idea Greg!

That Matthaus guy is a class act. Good on ya, Mate!

I'll take a pic or two when I do mine. I don't have much pipe before the baro as the baro and T are installed right on the stove nipple. Any issue with checking the draft after the baro or just a few inches before it? How much difference is there checking it over the fire?

i appreciate the program. . this unit is here for along time and I want to know she is running tops. if you read any of my posts I tired to reduce some heat loss out my flue. of course I have Keystoker DV. I loosed up the set screw and pushed the damper shut , backed it out some and tightened the set screw. well 4 in the morning the 2 CO detectors go off. so I get up and opened the damper a little more. alls good. my flue pipe is still pretty hot. I have a box fan right next to it to keep it cool. now I have a 1/4" hole (to the right , low) by the ash door with no screw in it or threads for one , also a screw I can take out on the flue pipe about 12" from where the flue hooks up to the DV unit. so heres my question. the only way I can reduce the draft (if need be) is to put a rheostat on the DV blower. Chris had to do that on his unit. sound bought right?

If you had enough room, Only other way is to put a Baro before the DV or get the DV adjusted correctly with a manometer.

You can try a Rehostat, but slowing down the exhaust gases is the same as closing off the adjustment. You CO could go off.!!

The inlet to the DV is very touchy as you already know. My plate on the inlet of the DV is about 1/2 closed, you can adjust the Combustion air a bit and it will affect the draft some, but without a manometer to actually monitor what is happening, you are just a taking a chance.

av8r wrote:I don't have much pipe before the baro as the baro and T are installed right on the stove nipple. Any issue with checking the draft after the baro or just a few inches before it? How much difference is there checking it over the fire?

You can check it close to the baro as long as it is before it. I would not set the chimney draft by testing the over fire draft as the two do not always relate, this probably more so with stokers.

Sign me up, who should I sent my address to. Jim