Sealing the Chimney

 
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Ctyankee
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Post by Ctyankee » Fri. Aug. 10, 2012 6:55 pm

That looks good and strong. What gauge steel did you use? Hopefully, I finish working on my swimming pool this weekend so I can start dealing with my chimney flue. I got my bags of coal today so I got to get that in the house too.

 
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I'm On Fire
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Post by I'm On Fire » Fri. Aug. 10, 2012 7:20 pm

Oops....apparently I thought 3/8 was smaller than 1/4. Probably should've gone with 1/4. Told you guys I wasn't smert.

Thanks Freetown for pointing that out. Lol....sometimes I kill myself....lol

 
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Post by I'm On Fire » Sun. Aug. 12, 2012 3:56 pm

So, I decided to test fit the plate today. I've still got three bolts to install but I think it fits Pretty damn well. Still have a bunch of areas to seal but overall, it looks and fits well. Just to think, Once the bolts are in I get to pull the plate back off so I can drill the collar and paint it. I don't think I drilled some of the holes deep enough for a few of the bolts, but as long as it holds. As for the side brackets. I'm not going to use them. There's going to be 7 bolts holding it, three in the back and four in the front. That should be enough. Anyway, here's a pretty crumb picture of it semi-installed. Oh yeah, that 60° angle that I just guessed at was dead on.

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Dennis
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Post by Dennis » Sun. Aug. 12, 2012 5:07 pm

don't forget the never seize on the bolts you want to remove later on or every bolt and nut
great looking job :up:


 
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I'm On Fire
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Post by I'm On Fire » Sun. Aug. 12, 2012 5:21 pm

Ooh, good point. I think I have a tub of Anti-Seize in the basement.

So, I also found a tub of furnace cement that I bought a few years ago when I serviced my oil furnace. Can I use it to seal the gaps around the sides of the plate? I'm not even sure how to apply it to the gaps. Smear it on the brick and rock face then put the plate in then touch up? I opened the tub up, it doesn't appear to be dried out. Mixing it up should make it gooey again. Does it dry hard like cement? Would it be difficult to get the plate out if I ever needed to? On the front edge I'll be using high-profile silicone.

Here's a pic of the furnace cement.

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Dennis
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Post by Dennis » Sun. Aug. 12, 2012 5:38 pm

I don't know about the high heat cement,but if it thick enough, use a small pointing trowel and place it in between the plate and stone/brick,if not thick enough use mortar the same way. Install the plate first. It dosn't need to be heat resistant, it won't get that hot at the edges,your only sealing the gaps. If you need to remove the plate later on just use a cold chisel and chip out the mortar

 
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freetown fred
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Post by freetown fred » Sun. Aug. 12, 2012 6:00 pm

Looks real good IOF :)

 
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I'm On Fire
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Post by I'm On Fire » Sun. Aug. 12, 2012 6:10 pm

Thanks guys.

I went down into the basement to see how it dried against the pipe I used it on, it dries Pretty hard, but has the feeling of almost like glass. It's hard to explain.


 
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freetown fred
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Post by freetown fred » Sun. Aug. 12, 2012 6:12 pm

Had to be there huh?? :clap: toothy

 
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I'm On Fire
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Post by I'm On Fire » Sun. Aug. 12, 2012 6:38 pm

Exactly.

 
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Post by I'm On Fire » Mon. Aug. 13, 2012 7:26 pm

So, I got some time this evening to throw a coat of stove paint on it. For now I only did the underside. The part that you actually connect the stove to. And I only painted the face side of the bracket and one side of the mating side of it. The part that gets bolted to the fireplace brick I left bare metal so I can smear high temp silicone on it.

Once the paint dries I'm going to tape off the areas that will get silicone and furnace cement so it's touching bare metal. I figure whatever has paint is going to flake. Of course, by that logic I should've left the mating sides of the bracket and plate bare metal, guess I can always scuff that up. Good thing I didn't buy the good stove paint, I paid $5 for high temp "grill" paint so I don't expect it to last anyway. Anyway, here's some pics for you to enjoy.

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