Coalpail.com Forum

I need advice on wher to install my manometer.i am having draft problems this year.I have burning for about one year and never hooked up my manometer(very stupid ) I came home from work the other day and I had moisture in my hopper and my co detector was reading a number of 35, but never went off. Ended up in the ER with my wife and step daughter, needless to say she is now petrified to use the stove again. I hear there is a power venter that can be used, but I don't know much about it. My wife would feel safer with that option, not sure if that's the solution. Any thoughts??

Manometer

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Power Vent Adjustment on Alaska Stove

Patriot Coal makes units that shut of if CO is detected.
Tjernlund makes the powershot unit for venting.

Power Vent

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Induced Draft Fans, Powervents.

Also, if you have a CoalTrol on the stove, raise your MIN a bit, if you are at 6 or 8, raise a couple points and check it, that will raise the IDLE temps up and hopefully help increase your draft. I think I have mine at 10 or 12.

and Get your Draft Gauge Hooked up. That is the ONLY way to tell your correct draft draft.

Hopefully you have your CO Detectors working properly too!

To really help you fully, please describe your system in detail and maintenance practices so far this season. Agree a manometer and feed rate increase will help, though a system discussion may help find other issues.

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clearly you have a problem with your stack draft. give us some details about your stack. fix the chimney and you'll be safe; no need for a powerventer.

Thanks for the help I love this forem.I have about 18 feet of double insulated pipe going up the back of the house.It is about one foot above the ridge.My stove is a pocono and I clean it every four weeks.I take the black pipe off the stove and clean it thoroughly. My baro tee is the first pipe out of the stove. Is that ok. With the baro in that location where should I put my manometer tube? And the fitting for the manometer is plastic that attaches to the stove pipe.That can't be right is it?

Thanks again in advance Mike

Manometer pipe generally goes between the stove exhaust and the barometer. Most installations have a foot or two 6" black pipe between the stove exhaust and barometer with the manometer pipe pretty much installed in the middle of that 1-2 ft length.

Having the manometer pipe so close to the barometer is something I am not familiar with, I will let others advise.

As far as how a manometer should be installed, there are lots of posts on the forum regarding that, one of our fine members likely has a few links already a few posts before this one...

Although you may, if you do not have an approved building permit for the install, understand that if had an incident caused by a stove issue your homeowners may not cover the incident from several perspectives.

The min feed rate as noted by WNY is also important.

BTW, you may want to clean out the entire length of chimney from stove to roof cap, it goes not take much of a ash coat to significantly reducing the area of a 6" ID insulated pipe. Can't be toooo safe IMO....

My chimney is 12" x 12" tiles, a lot more area that a 6" ID ....

mprov wrote:Thanks for the help I love this forem.I have about 18 feet of double insulated pipe going up the back of the house.It is about one foot above the ridge.

How close is the ridge to the chimney? Your chimney top must be 2' above anything within 10'.

mprov wrote:Thanks for the help I love this forem.I have about 18 feet of double insulated pipe going up the back of the house.It is about one foot above the ridge.My stove is a pocono and I clean it every four weeks.I take the black pipe off the stove and clean it thoroughly. My baro tee is the first pipe out of the stove. Is that ok. With the baro in that location where should I put my manometer tube? And the fitting for the manometer is plastic that attaches to the stove pipe.That can't be right is it?

Thanks again in advance Mike

Ever clean out the bottom of the 18'?

Mano needs to be inserted below the baro. as far below baro. as you can get...stay in straight vertical piece is best for your setup. Sometimes fellows will do it into stove wall for "over the fire" readings. You can SEARCH "over the fire" for more info. if you desire.

Eliminate as many elbows and T pipes as you can. My Dads stove could not get enough draft until I eliminated a clean out T that was in the pipe. And I made a 90 degree elbow into two 45 degree pipes. Ive seen it printed that each 90 degree pipe you have takes 3 feet of vertical chimney and a T pipe takes 5 feet. A 45 degree takes one foot. Each one you eliminate is the same as making your chimney higher. I'd get at least 2 feet above your peak too and probably 3 feet would be better. just my opinion.

with an exterior stack I'd add another section and add height. This will give you much better draft during mild weather.

I am 4' above ridge...
Nice draft on a short stack even on warm days...

mprov wrote:Thanks for the help I love this forem.I have about 18 feet of double insulated pipe going up the back of the house.It is about one foot above the ridge.My stove is a pocono and I clean it every four weeks.I take the black pipe off the stove and clean it thoroughly. My baro tee is the first pipe out of the stove. Is that ok. With the baro in that location where should I put my manometer tube? And the fitting for the manometer is plastic that attaches to the stove pipe.That can't be right is it?

Thanks again in advance Mike

Your biggest problem by far is having the chimney pipe on the outside of the house. When I originally installed my stack I was burning wood. I ran the pipe on the outside of my house. So it went out the top of the stove(at that time), up into a 90, then out a basement window into another 90 then straight up. I constantly got backdraft. Starting a fire was frustrating because I was getting smoke in the house. I only ran this setup maybe 10 times and got sick of it. I pulled another permit and ran the pipe straight from the basement through the house and out the roof of my ranch. That chimney performs 10 times better, never any backdraft, never ever any smells in the house. Top of my chimney clears the peak by about 2-3 feet.

Bootstrap wrote:

mprov wrote:Thanks for the help I love this forem.I have about 18 feet of double insulated pipe going up the back of the house.It is about one foot above the ridge.My stove is a pocono and I clean it every four weeks.I take the black pipe off the stove and clean it thoroughly. My baro tee is the first pipe out of the stove. Is that ok. With the baro in that location where should I put my manometer tube? And the fitting for the manometer is plastic that attaches to the stove pipe.That can't be right is it?

Thanks again in advance Mike

Your biggest problem by far is having the chimney pipe on the outside of the house. When I originally installed my stack I was burning wood. I ran the pipe on the outside of my house. So it went out the top of the stove(at that time), up into a 90, then out a basement window into another 90 then straight up. I constantly got backdraft. Starting a fire was frustrating because I was getting smoke in the house. I only ran this setup maybe 10 times and got sick of it. I pulled another permit and ran the pipe straight from the basement through the house and out the roof of my ranch. That chimney performs 10 times better, never any backdraft, never ever any smells in the house. Top of my chimney clears the peak by about 2-3 feet.

Bootstrap, you provided valued input, I learned something here that I willl tell my brother in law who has the outside insulated set burning woods but wants to do coal....

Is that a wind genny I see on your roof, Bootstrap ?

Pretty cool if it is!!!