Need Advise About Drafting Issue

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mprov
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Stoker Coal Boiler: leasure line pocono 110
Coal Size/Type: rice
Stove/Furnace Make: leisure line
Stove/Furnace Model: pocono
Location: eastern ct

Post Wed. Feb. 01, 2012 9:12 pm

I need advice on wher to install my manometer.i am having draft problems this year.I have burning for about one year and never hooked up my manometer(very stupid ) I came home from work the other day and I had moisture in my hopper and my co detector was reading a number of 35, but never went off. Ended up in the ER with my wife and step daughter, needless to say she is now petrified to use the stove again. I hear there is a power venter that can be used, but I don't know much about it. My wife would feel safer with that option, not sure if that's the solution. Any thoughts??


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ValterBorges
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Post Wed. Feb. 01, 2012 9:47 pm

Valter

S260 w/ Indirect 80 Gal Elec. Tank, Propane Backup - Heating 5,700 sqft + pool.

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WNY
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Post Thu. Feb. 02, 2012 5:35 am

Also, if you have a CoalTrol on the stove, raise your MIN a bit, if you are at 6 or 8, raise a couple points and check it, that will raise the IDLE temps up and hopefully help increase your draft. I think I have mine at 10 or 12.

and Get your Draft Gauge Hooked up. That is the ONLY way to tell your correct draft draft.

Hopefully you have your CO Detectors working properly too!
- Dave
Hyfire I & Keystoker 90K heating an 1890 Victorian
- Amsoil Authorized T1 Certified Dealer

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Uglysquirrel
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Stove/Furnace Model: Pocono

Post Thu. Feb. 02, 2012 7:24 am

To really help you fully, please describe your system in detail and maintenance practices so far this season. Agree a manometer and feed rate increase will help, though a system discussion may help find other issues. :shock:

ug

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Berlin
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Post Thu. Feb. 02, 2012 8:32 am

clearly you have a problem with your stack draft. give us some details about your stack. fix the chimney and you'll be safe; no need for a powerventer.
Burning western Pennsylvania Bituminous in WNY using model 77 stoker furnace. BITUMINOUS equiptment: 2 hand fired stoves of my own design, Many Combustioneer Model 77 stokers, stokermatic furnace, Many Will-Burt stokers, & and Two Iron firemen.

mprov
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Posts: 13
Joined: Mon. Feb. 21, 2011 8:41 pm
Stoker Coal Boiler: leasure line pocono 110
Coal Size/Type: rice
Stove/Furnace Make: leisure line
Stove/Furnace Model: pocono
Location: eastern ct

Post Thu. Feb. 02, 2012 5:57 pm

Thanks for the help I love this forem.I have about 18 feet of double insulated pipe going up the back of the house.It is about one foot above the ridge.My stove is a pocono and I clean it every four weeks.I take the black pipe off the stove and clean it thoroughly. My baro tee is the first pipe out of the stove. Is that ok. With the baro in that location where should I put my manometer tube? And the fitting for the manometer is plastic that attaches to the stove pipe.That can't be right is it?

Thanks again in advance Mike

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Uglysquirrel
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Post Thu. Feb. 02, 2012 6:49 pm

Manometer pipe generally goes between the stove exhaust and the barometer. Most installations have a foot or two 6" black pipe between the stove exhaust and barometer with the manometer pipe pretty much installed in the middle of that 1-2 ft length.

Having the manometer pipe so close to the barometer is something I am not familiar with, I will let others advise.

As far as how a manometer should be installed, there are lots of posts on the forum regarding that, one of our fine members likely has a few links already a few posts before this one...

Although you may, if you do not have an approved building permit for the install, understand that if had an incident caused by a stove issue your homeowners may not cover the incident from several perspectives.

The min feed rate as noted by WNY is also important.

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Uglysquirrel
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Post Thu. Feb. 02, 2012 6:53 pm

BTW, you may want to clean out the entire length of chimney from stove to roof cap, it goes not take much of a ash coat to significantly reducing the area of a 6" ID insulated pipe. Can't be toooo safe IMO....

My chimney is 12" x 12" tiles, a lot more area that a 6" ID ....


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coaledsweat
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Post Thu. Feb. 02, 2012 7:01 pm

mprov wrote:Thanks for the help I love this forem.I have about 18 feet of double insulated pipe going up the back of the house.It is about one foot above the ridge.
How close is the ridge to the chimney? Your chimney top must be 2' above anything within 10'.
Nothing is impossible for people who don't have to do it themselves.

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McGiever
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Post Thu. Feb. 02, 2012 10:36 pm

mprov wrote:Thanks for the help I love this forem.I have about 18 feet of double insulated pipe going up the back of the house.It is about one foot above the ridge.My stove is a pocono and I clean it every four weeks.I take the black pipe off the stove and clean it thoroughly. My baro tee is the first pipe out of the stove. Is that ok. With the baro in that location where should I put my manometer tube? And the fitting for the manometer is plastic that attaches to the stove pipe.That can't be right is it?

Thanks again in advance Mike
Ever clean out the bottom of the 18'?

Mano needs to be inserted below the baro. as far below baro. as you can get...stay in straight vertical piece is best for your setup. Sometimes fellows will do it into stove wall for "over the fire" readings. You can SEARCH "over the fire" for more info. if you desire. :)
SLOW AND STEADY WINS THE RACE

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warminmn
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Post Fri. Feb. 03, 2012 7:25 am

Eliminate as many elbows and T pipes as you can. My Dads stove could not get enough draft until I eliminated a clean out T that was in the pipe. And I made a 90 degree elbow into two 45 degree pipes. Ive seen it printed that each 90 degree pipe you have takes 3 feet of vertical chimney and a T pipe takes 5 feet. A 45 degree takes one foot. Each one you eliminate is the same as making your chimney higher. I'd get at least 2 feet above your peak too and probably 3 feet would be better. just my opinion.
I'm just an old chunk of coal now Lord but I'm gonna be a diamond some day - Billy Joe Shaver

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Berlin
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Post Fri. Feb. 03, 2012 7:43 am

with an exterior stack I'd add another section and add height. This will give you much better draft during mild weather.
Burning western Pennsylvania Bituminous in WNY using model 77 stoker furnace. BITUMINOUS equiptment: 2 hand fired stoves of my own design, Many Combustioneer Model 77 stokers, stokermatic furnace, Many Will-Burt stokers, & and Two Iron firemen.

CapeCoaler
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Post Fri. Feb. 03, 2012 9:18 am

I am 4' above ridge...
Nice draft on a short stack even on warm days...
I am not an engineer, train or otherwise!
I stay at a Holiday Inn at least once a year!
Most of all I do have common sense and a practical application of logic.
Oh, add humor, on the dry side, along with a wee bit 'o sarcasm.

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Bootstrap
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Post Fri. Feb. 03, 2012 9:21 am

mprov wrote:Thanks for the help I love this forem.I have about 18 feet of double insulated pipe going up the back of the house.It is about one foot above the ridge.My stove is a pocono and I clean it every four weeks.I take the black pipe off the stove and clean it thoroughly. My baro tee is the first pipe out of the stove. Is that ok. With the baro in that location where should I put my manometer tube? And the fitting for the manometer is plastic that attaches to the stove pipe.That can't be right is it?

Thanks again in advance Mike
Your biggest problem by far is having the chimney pipe on the outside of the house. When I originally installed my stack I was burning wood. I ran the pipe on the outside of my house. So it went out the top of the stove(at that time), up into a 90, then out a basement window into another 90 then straight up. I constantly got backdraft. Starting a fire was frustrating because I was getting smoke in the house. I only ran this setup maybe 10 times and got sick of it. I pulled another permit and ran the pipe straight from the basement through the house and out the roof of my ranch. That chimney performs 10 times better, never any backdraft, never ever any smells in the house. Top of my chimney clears the peak by about 2-3 feet.
Attachments
Dec19_0005.jpg
I painted the stove pipe black to blend in with the roof more. Its triple layer insulated chimey pipe.
DSCF0119.JPG
Even with that 45 degree pipe, still no backdraft because the stack is about 20' tall straight up.
I pick coal up and put it down.............in my stove!

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Uglysquirrel
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Post Sat. Feb. 04, 2012 9:40 am

Bootstrap wrote:
mprov wrote:Thanks for the help I love this forem.I have about 18 feet of double insulated pipe going up the back of the house.It is about one foot above the ridge.My stove is a pocono and I clean it every four weeks.I take the black pipe off the stove and clean it thoroughly. My baro tee is the first pipe out of the stove. Is that ok. With the baro in that location where should I put my manometer tube? And the fitting for the manometer is plastic that attaches to the stove pipe.That can't be right is it?

Thanks again in advance Mike
Your biggest problem by far is having the chimney pipe on the outside of the house. When I originally installed my stack I was burning wood. I ran the pipe on the outside of my house. So it went out the top of the stove(at that time), up into a 90, then out a basement window into another 90 then straight up. I constantly got backdraft. Starting a fire was frustrating because I was getting smoke in the house. I only ran this setup maybe 10 times and got sick of it. I pulled another permit and ran the pipe straight from the basement through the house and out the roof of my ranch. That chimney performs 10 times better, never any backdraft, never ever any smells in the house. Top of my chimney clears the peak by about 2-3 feet.
Bootstrap, you provided valued input, I learned something here that I willl tell my brother in law who has the outside insulated set burning woods but wants to do coal....

Is that a wind genny I see on your roof, Bootstrap ?

Pretty cool if it is!!! :D :D


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