Wall Pass Through?

windago · Post by **windago** » Wed. Feb. 01, 2012 4:59 pm

the Olympia pass through will last. they test them for heat transfer. they test it to the point of failure 2000+. ive been in the ul testing room at Olympia and ive seen what they do to the ventis class A pipe. firing at 1000 for an hour then up to 1500 then to 2000+. and if you go with the SS 316 its covered for all fuels "FOREVER". warranty is transferable to the next home owner.

there are connectors to go from 22 gauge steel pipe "black stove pipe" you would need on on each side. you can go through a wall or the out side wall doesn't matter. but you could do what I am planing and going with the rhino rigid SS 316. it comes with there FOREVER WARRANTY. set it up right from the start. from the stove to the chimney. just clean and forget. do not get me wrong the cost of the rhino is about two to three times that of black stove pipe. but look at the savings in the long run. and for any reason it fails they will stand behind it 100% and it looks nice too.

pm me if your interested in going this route and we can talk numbers.

freetown fred · Post by **freetown fred** » Wed. Feb. 01, 2012 5:34 pm

Just for the record, clay will definitly crack under serious heat, but we're not talkin about that here--the purpose of the clay thimble is & always has been to dissipate the heat. If someones pipe is that hot going through a wall w/ a coal stove, something ain't right. It comes down to an individual choice. There are a few ways to tackle this situation, one not being any better or worse then the other. Many good options posted here.

CoalUserWannabe wrote:there is no way I would use a clay thimble ! it only conducts heat.

Instead fill in the space between the 8 inch hole and the 6 inch with hi temp insulation.

the clay thimbles were mainly used because they don't crack under the heat, but clay is a heat conductive, and guess what you are trying to keep away from the structure ? HEAT

Cheers

Johnny

windago · Post by **windago** » Wed. Feb. 01, 2012 5:46 pm

pariceburner wrote:Thank you all. Great info. I did read about the brick wall but I was thinking there had to be something cheaper and easier than building a brick wall. I really like the wall pass through. But have some questions.

windago wrote:you have this option too.
http://www.olympiachimney.com/products/cat/VCAA/VCAWPT/VA-WP

this is going to be the best choice for looks and safety. its up there on price and other things you might need to adapt to what pipe you have now.
What is the difference between this one and the one I posted previously? And is there a difference in pipe between the class a and double walled black pipe. An with the one you sent me would I need a clay thimble inside that and then my stove pipe through the clay or just my stove pipe through that wall piece?

sorry I read this to fast. you do not need anything but this pass through. it is two pipes with insulation in between the two of them. this is installed and you would use adapters to go from stove pipe to wall pass through. nothing else is needed.

.JPG | 4.4KB | snap-wrap-insulation2.jpg

windago · Post by **windago** » Wed. Feb. 01, 2012 6:31 pm

you have this one too. this is only pretty on one side though.
http://www.olympiachimney.com/products/cat/SP/SPPR/THIMKIT_
i can have the custom shop make something up for you too. for what ever you want to go with.

there are a lot of different kinds of thimbles you can go with. im not saying Olympia is the best for you. you might find something that works better. keep looking and there are no dumb questions. only the ones that aren't asked.

Poconoeagle · Post by **Poconoeagle** » Wed. Feb. 01, 2012 6:36 pm

freetown fred wrote:PE, He's going into an existing chimney I beleive?? Ball park, what was the price tag on your GRETLE chimney set-up.

i got wholesale price maybe 1100 with all the whistles

pariceburner · Post by **pariceburner** » Thu. Feb. 02, 2012 9:44 am

One more question and I think I'm good to go. If I get an 8" wall pass through to run my 6" pipe through is there some kind of ring to get to go around the 6" pipe and cover the 8" hole? I'm thinking I'm gonns be able to look between the 2 pipes and see into the room on the other side of the wall? I hope yous can follow that. Lol.

8" hole with 6" pipe running through it. I'll have a 2" gap around the 6". I know I'll fill the space with insulation but if I don't have a "big ring" to go around the 6" you will see the insulation stuffed around the pipe.

pariceburner · Post by **pariceburner** » Thu. Feb. 02, 2012 9:45 am

titleist1 wrote:I would get the 6" single wall black flue pipe and the Ace pass through since you are running it into an existing chimney. Make sure it is sloped up toward the chimney thimble. Male end goes toward the chimney, three screws at each joint securing it. I would recommend getting a manometer and installing it so you can monitor your draft. 2 or 3 CO alarms would be a good idea also!

The black single wall will not last forever, I get about 2 to 3 years out of mine depending on how well I clean it at the end of the season. If you remove it from the thimble for the summer it should stay drier and not rust out as fast. You will get fly ash build up in any horizontal section of flue pipe. It would be useful to use a T that is capped off rather than a 90* so you can remove the cap and vacuum out the horizontal run through the winter. You will have to determine how often that is necessary in your set up, each is a little different. I vacuum mine out about every 6 weeks of running hard. Haven't been running hard this year and there was barely 1/2" of ash in my horizontal since Halloween. I vacuumed it out anyway this past weekend.

What is a manometer??

titleist1 · Post by **titleist1** » Thu. Feb. 02, 2012 12:03 pm

pariceburner wrote:One more question and I think I'm good to go. If I get an 8" wall pass through to run my 6" pipe through is there some kind of ring to get to go around the 6" pipe and cover the 8" hole? I'm thinking I'm gonns be able to look between the 2 pipes and see into the room on the other side of the wall? I hope yous can follow that. Lol.

8" hole with 6" pipe running through it. I'll have a 2" gap around the 6". I know I'll fill the space with insulation but if I don't have a "big ring" to go around the 6" you will see the insulation stuffed around the pipe.

You will have a 1" gap all around the 6" pipe inside the 8" pipe. Yes they make decorative rings to cover that.

A manometer is a device that measures your draft. Dwyer Mark II model 25 is used frequently, there are others that work just as well. Just enter manometer in the search box and you'll get a number of hits with pictures of what they look like and how people have them installed. It is very useful, less than $50 and a good tool to help optimize your coal burning!

MURDOC1 · Post by **MURDOC1** » Thu. Feb. 02, 2012 12:14 pm

To use any of the proposed pass-throughs mentioned in this thread thus far you MUST use class-A dual wall!!! No single wall pipe can pass through a COMBUSTIBLE wall without proper clearance, the Olympia pass-through is for use with class-A dual wall as is the Ace hardware item from Selkirk, hence the 2" required clearance from combustibles...

windago wrote:
pariceburner wrote:Thank you all. Great info. I did read about the brick wall but I was thinking there had to be something cheaper and easier than building a brick wall. I really like the wall pass through. But have some questions.
What is the difference between this one and the one I posted previously? And is there a difference in pipe between the class a and double walled black pipe. An with the one you sent me would I need a clay thimble inside that and then my stove pipe through the clay or just my stove pipe through that wall piece?
sorry I read this to fast. you do not need anything but this pass through. it is two pipes with insulation in between the two of them. this is installed and you would use adapters to go from stove pipe to wall pass through. nothing else is needed.
snap-wrap-insulation2.jpg

Snap-Wrap insulation is rated 0-0 clearance when used inside a MASONRY chimney, not a combustible wall!!!

Windago, perhaps you should be a bit more cautious with your advice, particularly if you intend to represent Olympia Chimney Supply, lets not burn this guys house down!!!

windago · Post by **windago** » Thu. Feb. 02, 2012 4:56 pm

MURDOC1 wrote:To use any of the proposed pass-throughs mentioned in this thread thus far you MUST use class-A dual wall!!! No single wall pipe can pass through a COMBUSTIBLE wall without proper clearance, the Olympia pass-through is for use with class-A dual wall as is the Ace hardware item from Selkirk, hence the 2" required clearance from combustibles...

Snap-Wrap insulation is rated 0-0 clearance when used inside a MASONRY chimney, not a combustible wall!!!

Windago, perhaps you should be a bit more cautious with your advice, particularly if you intend to represent Olympia Chimney Supply, lets not burn this guys house down!!!

sorry. I have hard time getting "view" point across. I was not going to sell anything that would cause a problem. I have done this type of install before. the wall pass through would last him a life time. the picture was not of the pass through. it was just of there class A pipe. if you would like I can get pictures of the actual unit. I have to go to Olympia tomorrow.

i would love to sell him a stove to chimney setup that would last a life time. but most people don't want to spend that much.

i am sorry in the future I will not offer advise on Olympia products on the forum. if people want them they can PM me and I will be happy to assist them in what ever they need.