ALL Nighter Stove Replacing Pipe to Chimney

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DirtdawgCT
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Posts: 1
Joined: Wed. Jan. 18, 2012 8:06 pm
Stove/Furnace Make: Allnighter
Stove/Furnace Model: BIG MOE

Post Wed. Jan. 18, 2012 8:47 pm

Any input is greatly appreciated

I have a Wood Burning stove All Nighter BIG MOE

This year I clean chimney,take apart stove pipes leading to chimney from back of stove cleaned inside of pipes and back portion of stove where pipe slides in,clean trap and light up well I notice as the stove heats every so often the stove pipe to wall is gapping atleast a 1/2 inch between the 2 90 elbows. so with (welding ) gloves I'm able to get them connectted back.I allow to cool a check my connections again to secure everything seems snug to fit and sure enough after another few days of burning samething. really concerned about the gap seems like metal pipe is fatigud. The setup is how it came with house burned well till now 4 1/2 years

So I go get replacement pipe from local lowes same pieces I already have to replace 2 90's elbows,24 inch pipe for up pipe from back of stove, straight piece for out of wall, I have it all set making sure to minimize curves. what i'm not comfortable with it the fit of the 24inch pipe into back of stove there is somewhat of a flat section on the replacement pipe where the seam is . When I place a flash light into back of stove I can see the light through a gap space where the pipe's seam is.

anyone have suggestions on getting flat section on seam, round to fit without gap ?

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EasyRay
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Hand Fed Coal Stove: Harman TLC 2000
Coal Size/Type: Pea,Nut or Stove
Location: Central Connecticut

Post Thu. Jan. 19, 2012 10:00 am

Sounds to me like the seam is not snapped together properly. Just return it to Lowe's and get another one that goes together properly.
After I replace my pipes, even when they fit properly, I seal all the seams with high temperature silicone.
I also use three screws ay every connection.
Regards, Ray

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coaledsweat
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Post Thu. Jan. 19, 2012 11:35 am

EasyRay wrote:Sounds to me like the seam is not snapped together properly. Just return it to Lowe's and get another one that goes together properly.
Take it all back and go to an HVAC supply house and get some real stovepipe.
Nothing is impossible for people who don't have to do it themselves.


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EasyRay
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Hand Fed Coal Stove: Harman TLC 2000
Coal Size/Type: Pea,Nut or Stove
Location: Central Connecticut

Post Fri. Jan. 20, 2012 12:04 pm

coaledsweat wrote:
EasyRay wrote:Sounds to me like the seam is not snapped together properly. Just return it to Lowe's and get another one that goes together properly.
Take it all back and go to an HVAC supply house and get some real stovepipe.
Good point... Although I've never had a problem with the regular black pipe from Lowe's. I suppose price and durability would be an issue over the life of the pipe.
Regards, Ray

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Uglysquirrel
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Stove/Furnace Model: Pocono

Post Mon. Jan. 23, 2012 7:04 pm

Good point made prior should be brought up again, Consider the seam welded thick wall stuff, it'll get red hot on overfire and no potential for separated seams. Lasts 2-3 X the Lowe's stuff especially if summer removed. Three screws at all pipe joints.

Happy heating.

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freetown fred
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Hand Fed Coal Stove: HITZER 50-93
Coal Size/Type: BLASCHAK Nut
Location: Freetown,NY 13803

Post Mon. Jan. 23, 2012 7:17 pm

I don't know guys, my big wood burning beast-- BULLARD-- would run for two 1/2-- 3 yrs with Lowes black pipe & elbows for way less expensive then our local H&V warehouse had for basically the same 24ga. pipe. Dirtdawg, if you've got a real flat spot on your elbow/ pipe--take it back w/ receipt & get it replaced. ;) Don't forget those connection screws. They also hold the seams together.
"A people that values it's privileges above it's principals, soon loses both"--Dwight D Eisenhower


rychw
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Stoker Coal Boiler: AHS 130
Coal Size/Type: Pea
Stove/Furnace Make: AHS
Stove/Furnace Model: 130
Location: Sykesville, MD

Post Mon. Jan. 23, 2012 7:31 pm

freetown fred wrote:I don't know guys, my big wood burning beast-- BULLARD-- would run for two 1/2-- 3 yrs with Lowes black pipe & elbows for way less expensive then our local H&V warehouse had for basically the same 24ga. pipe. Dirtdawg, if you've got a real flat spot on your elbow/ pipe--take it back w/ receipt & get it replaced. ;) Don't forget those connection screws. They also hold the seams together.
After spending $45 every two years for new galvanized pipe from HVAC supplier, I bought stainless, seamless pipe for $250 and will never have to replace it again. I can even leave it attached during the summer without fear of it rotting out due to humidity and acid action. It is so nice to look at since it doesn't change color or get rusty like the black and galvanized pipe did. :D

franco b
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Post Mon. Jan. 23, 2012 7:47 pm

Just fill in the gap with some furnace cement.

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freetown fred
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Hand Fed Coal Stove: HITZER 50-93
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Post Mon. Jan. 23, 2012 8:19 pm

Damn it franco b, now that is the economic & efficient fix. ;)
"A people that values it's privileges above it's principals, soon loses both"--Dwight D Eisenhower

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2001Sierra
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Hot Air Coal Stoker Stove: Keystoker 90 Chimney vent
Coal Size/Type: Rice
Other Heating: Buderus Oil Boiler 3115-34
Stove/Furnace Model: Keystoker 90 Chimney Vent
Location: Wynantskill NY, 10 miles from Albany

Post Mon. Jan. 23, 2012 9:44 pm

rychw wrote:
freetown fred wrote:I don't know guys, my big wood burning beast-- BULLARD-- would run for two 1/2-- 3 yrs with Lowes black pipe & elbows for way less expensive then our local H&V warehouse had for basically the same 24ga. pipe. Dirtdawg, if you've got a real flat spot on your elbow/ pipe--take it back w/ receipt & get it replaced. ;) Don't forget those connection screws. They also hold the seams together.
After spending $45 every two years for new galvanized pipe from HVAC supplier, I bought stainless, seamless pipe for $250 and will never have to replace it again. I can even leave it attached during the summer without fear of it rotting out due to humidity and acid action. It is so nice to look at since it doesn't change color or get rusty like the black and galvanized pipe did. :D

I used stainless for years between the Buderus and the clay chimney. Nice dry basement but still would get pinholes after 7 to 10 years, I really did not keep track how often, but in the summer when outside humidity got out of control you would see microscopic rust bubbles on the pipe, which would become pinholes. I now use 22 gauge welded seam pipe from Elmer's Pipe Supply up in Maine. Nice stuff, he also carries stainless.

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