Install a Barometric Damper on a Stoker Stove/Furnace?

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CoalHeat
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Post by CoalHeat » Mon. Oct. 06, 2008 6:09 am

What brand baro damper do you have?


 
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Freddy
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Post by Freddy » Mon. Oct. 06, 2008 7:05 am

[quote] Bounca wrote:
Cant I just cover it closed (as it essentially was in the past) with aluminum foil or similar?

I'll bet the old damper did more than you think. Get a new damper.

 
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Post by coalishot » Mon. Oct. 06, 2008 7:51 pm

OK. I INSPECTED THE CHIMNEY AND IT IS 100% CLEAR AND NEW CLEAN. I also moved the damper to the horizontal pipe and it is now over 18" from stove outlet. Temp is 54 outside and going to low 40's to upper 30's so I decided to try it again. Draft before I lit stove was 0. After lit for 10 minutes .02 and an other 20 .03. I have baro set at 2. Will see when I reach high fire where it all is and check co and stack temps. Any other things needed??????????????

Oh so far no sulfur smell.

I must say however that I installed the black stove pipe with arrows away from stove and screwed it together but do consider joints hardky leak proof. Is this ok.???

 
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Post by coalishot » Mon. Oct. 06, 2008 7:53 pm

oh and I had a peak co reading of 17 last night.

 
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Post by coaledsweat » Mon. Oct. 06, 2008 8:04 pm

coalishot wrote:I must say however that I installed the black stove pipe with arrows away from stove and screwed it together but do consider joints hardky leak proof. Is this ok.???
With coal it doesn't matter which way the stovepipe goes. The joints won't "leak" as long as there is a draft, you could seal the joints with foil tape or black silicone, even stove cement if you so desire.

 
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Post by coalishot » Mon. Oct. 06, 2008 8:09 pm

stack temp is 239 12" on stove pipe above stove side of stove is 240 vebt after baro is 139 baro is still closed with .04 draft. I can maintain that or run a little higher maybe .05-.06? Any ideals.

No odors.

 
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Post by coaledsweat » Mon. Oct. 06, 2008 8:14 pm

Sounds good to me, are you warm enough? :)


 
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Post by coalishot » Mon. Oct. 06, 2008 8:21 pm

Im fine just got to get wife to believe all is well and she wont die tonite.

 
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Post by coalishot » Mon. Oct. 06, 2008 8:23 pm

MANY THANKS WOOD N COAL

 
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Post by coalishot » Mon. Oct. 06, 2008 8:43 pm

NOW AT FULL BUTN AND OPERATING TEMPS ARE SIDE OF STOVE 312 FLU 12" ABOVE STOVE 256 FLU AFTER BARO 155 BARO MODULATING DRAFT AT .05.

 
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Post by CoalHeat » Mon. Oct. 06, 2008 8:58 pm

You are quite welcome.

If the draft is -.05 with the full fire you can adjust it lower to -.04, I'd leave the manometer connected for a while to see how the draft reacts when it starts to get really cold out.

Remember the chimney draft is directly related to the amount of heat going into it, so the draft will naturally increase in relation to the burn rate of the stoker.

Glad you are staying warm.

After talking to you I was thinking and I realized that my CO detector is well over 7 years old so I bought a new Nighthawk with the readout today. Put the old Nighthawk in the cellar 'till I can get another replacement. Better safe then sorry!

 
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Post by coalishot » Mon. Oct. 06, 2008 9:38 pm

i like the night hawk

 
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Post by coalishot » Tue. Oct. 07, 2008 4:35 pm

Well I turne dit down to #2 last might and by 6a, I had fumes in hose and 31 on co detector. I finally got number and actually talked to owner of Alaska. We talked numbers sizes etc. It appears that my chiminey is to big to run on low especially on low. I have access to stainless liner sat wholesale so I picked up a 6" liner. We discussed the fact that it would run on high fine in warmer weather but that defeats the purpose of a thermostat now doesnt it. I must be able to run as low as 2 I am sure in dead of winter it will be on 4 . I will let u all know how it works after I install liner.

 
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Post by coldwind » Wed. Oct. 08, 2008 5:51 pm

What does the "#2" mean on an Alaska?

 
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Post by coalishot » Wed. Oct. 08, 2008 9:18 pm

u can adjust feed rate with a controller numbered 1-5 1 being lowest burn 5 being highest.


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