Install a Barometric Damper on a Stoker Stove/Furnace?

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dave brode
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Post Tue. Jul. 13, 2010 11:31 pm

Ok, guys, will do.

Thanks much.

Dave


DocDT
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Post Sat. Sep. 10, 2011 10:04 am

Just had to replace my whole exhaust pipe on my Koker stove. Should I hunt down someone with a meter to zero my baro. in to the correct setting or just get it in close? Thanks!

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sterling40man
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Post Sat. Sep. 10, 2011 2:49 pm

DocDT wrote:Just had to replace my whole exhaust pipe on my Koker stove. Should I hunt down someone with a meter to zero my baro. in to the correct setting or just get it in close? Thanks!
Just get it close for now. Use the numbers on the baro and set the weight nob at 2 or 3......then when you have time borrow a manometer from someone. Stokers should run between .02-.04 on a manometer. I set my baro at 2 on the scale and then set up the manometer. There is usually only minimal adjustment to the knob after that.

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I'm On Fire
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Post Sat. Sep. 10, 2011 7:55 pm


DocDT
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Post Mon. Sep. 12, 2011 11:19 pm

Good idea.!!!!! Thanks and done deal.

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no74falcon
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Post Fri. Sep. 16, 2011 8:58 pm

First time I have installed a Baro when I put in my Channing III. I have the weight all the way out and it only opens if I have the stove cranked up real good. What am I doing wrong? Thanks!

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I'm On Fire
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Post Sun. Sep. 18, 2011 4:00 pm

no74falcon wrote:First time I have installed a Baro when I put in my Channing III. I have the weight all the way out and it only opens if I have the stove cranked up real good. What am I doing wrong? Thanks!
When you say all the way out which side to you have it on? How do you have the baro orientated? Do you had a manometer?

You could put the weight more to the middle, around the 4.

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no74falcon
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Post Sun. Sep. 18, 2011 6:41 pm

I'm On Fire wrote:
no74falcon wrote:First time I have installed a Baro when I put in my Channing III. I have the weight all the way out and it only opens if I have the stove cranked up real good. What am I doing wrong? Thanks!
When you say all the way out which side to you have it on? How do you have the baro orientated? Do you had a manometer?

You could put the weight more to the middle, around the 4.
I'm sorry for not providing enough info. It is a Field Controls B34 so there are no numbers. It only has a thumb screw to run the weight in or out. The bottom of the baro is 12 3/4" from the top of the stove in the verticle section. I have everything plumb so not sure what is going on. Sorry, almost forgot, no manometer.


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coaledsweat
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Post Sun. Sep. 18, 2011 6:56 pm

no74falcon wrote:First time I have installed a Baro when I put in my Channing III. I have the weight all the way out and it only opens if I have the stove cranked up real good. What am I doing wrong? Thanks!
Probably nothing, you can't tell what is going on without a manometer.

rberq
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Post Sun. Sep. 18, 2011 8:07 pm

no74falcon wrote:I have the weight all the way out and it only opens if I have the stove cranked up real good.
All the way out -- that is, the disk-shaped weight as far as it will go from the swinging plate -- is the position that requires the highest draft to open. So, it makes sense that it would open only when the stove is cranked up. As you adjust the weight closer to the damper plate, it should open at lower drafts. You can use a manometer to set whatever draft is recommended for your stove. Or you can use trial and error over a period of days or weeks to get a workable setting. If you set too high a draft you will be wasting heat up the chimney. If you set too low a draft, the stove may be sluggish and not respond quickly when you add new coal or want more heat. My stove recommends .06 to .10 draft. It will burn at lower settings, but it is not as manageable.

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no74falcon
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Post Mon. Sep. 19, 2011 7:07 am

Thanks everyone. All the way out means the weight is as close to the plate as it can be, which should open the damper with the lowest possible draft, right? I understand the principals, just thought it would try to open easily and have to turn it back in to keep it from opening too much, at this setting. Do I not have a good draft? Maybe a manometer is what I need to find out if I need a better draft anyway, even with no baro at all.

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Rob R.
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Post Mon. Sep. 19, 2011 8:07 am

You need to get a draft gauge to set the baro correctly. It is also important to let the stove run for a while before you try and adjust things.

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Howudoin2427
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Post Mon. Oct. 03, 2011 1:26 pm

Just installed my new barometric damper. Looking forward to trying it out.
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SteveZee
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Post Tue. Oct. 04, 2011 12:23 pm

no74falcon wrote:Thanks everyone. All the way out means the weight is as close to the plate as it can be, which should open the damper with the lowest possible draft, right? I understand the principals, just thought it would try to open easily and have to turn it back in to keep it from opening too much, at this setting. Do I not have a good draft? Maybe a manometer is what I need to find out if I need a better draft anyway, even with no baro at all.
Just because it doesn't open doesn't mean somethings wrong with it. Once your stove is been running a while and is up to temp (read: a good draft established) it may not open depending on the strength of your draft. You may have to wait for a windy day to see it open.

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coaledsweat
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Post Tue. Oct. 04, 2011 7:00 pm

no74falcon wrote:Maybe a manometer is what I need to find out if I need a better draft anyway, even with no baro at all.
Not maybe, it is exactly what you need. With out it, you have no idea what is going on in that stovepipe.


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