Install a Barometric Damper on a Stoker Stove/Furnace?

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Post by 1st time coaler » Fri. Sep. 05, 2008 5:30 pm

coal berner, According to the manual that comes with the koker it says "Install brometric damper in first section of stove pipe." isn't that what they ment? If its wrong I will fix it.


 
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Post by WNY » Fri. Sep. 12, 2008 11:58 am

I think with most applications, 12-18" from the stove works fine. As long as it is functioning correctly and you have the draft set correctly, it should do it's job.

 
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Post by Bounca » Thu. Sep. 25, 2008 12:45 pm

First time poster, long time lurker and I have to get to the bottom of this baro issue. I have read through this thread and I’m confused as to what to do given my particular situation.

I have a thermostat controlled Harman Magnum stoker with a combustion fan for 8 years that came with my house. Burns rice. It has worked great for me (never going out unexpectedly) and I don’t feel I’m wasting coal (in talking with a few other people who burn coal).

Here’s the kicker…there is no baro. It looks like there was errrr, sort of. Basically whats left of a one time baro is just the disc that is always covering it at the ‘T’. There’s no numbers, controls, weights or any components. Just the disc and wire that goes through the diameter connecting it to the sides of the circular opening. Well this wire and disc has since rusted and fallen out so now I have to do something….or do I. Cant I just cover it closed (as it essentially was in the past) with aluminum foil or similar?

I know the manual says to have a baro but the thing has been fine for nearly a decade.

Thanks. This forum rocks by the way.

 
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Post by coal berner » Thu. Sep. 25, 2008 1:05 pm

1st time coaler wrote:coal berner, According to the manual that comes with the koker it says "Install brometric damper in first section of stove pipe." isn't that what they ment? If its wrong I will fix it.
Yes I should of been more clear on this you shouuld have piece or a section of stove pipe before the baro not just the baro sitting on the stove/stoker top in the Directions that come with the Field control baros it will also tell you that Min
of 12" is what they Recommend
Last edited by coal berner on Thu. Sep. 25, 2008 1:27 pm, edited 3 times in total.

 
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Post by coal berner » Thu. Sep. 25, 2008 1:25 pm

orvis wrote:The configuration marked "J" in your link seems to show the baro right on the furnace.
Look again it shows a piece or section of stove pipe before the baro like The Field control Directions tell you a Min of
12" of stove pipe before the baro You need some space between the stove & baro so it will work correctly the baro
has to take the cooler air from the room to break the daft If it is on top of the stove or stoker the air is at the hottest
temp point plus the flue gas is at it's max velocity the baro won't be abel to control it you need some space between the
stove flue and baro so the baro can work

 
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Post by rberq » Thu. Sep. 25, 2008 7:28 pm

Bounca wrote:Cant I just cover it closed (as it essentially was in the past) with aluminum foil or similar?
Well, if it were me I'd install a new baro just because if you don't, you won't know if it would help or not.

But to be roughly equivalent to what you had before, yes you could just cover it over. You probably had some air entering the flue around the old rusty disk, so you will likely have MORE draft once you cover it. You might want to use something more substantial than aluminum foil, say something that will attach with screws, just so there's no danger of it getting punctured or being blown off, because then it could REALLY reduce the draft.

 
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Post by coaledsweat » Thu. Sep. 25, 2008 7:46 pm

Replace the baro (I would move it towards the thimble)or put a cap over it secured with three screws, if the foil blows off you could kill yourself with CO. Don't fool with combustion byproducts, do it right.


 
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Post by 1st time coaler » Thu. Sep. 25, 2008 8:29 pm

Thanks for the input coal berner. What you said makes sense I think I'll move my baro up to the slope of the pipe.
thanks.mark :up:

 
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Post by coalishot » Sat. Oct. 04, 2008 11:14 pm

I just fired up in the lehigh valley. 49 degree night. My baro is closed and my pressure is .08. If I manually push the baro wide open it is .07. I have no ideal where it should be. I used very good known accuarte mamometer to achieve readings in the stove pipe just above top outlet of alaska liberty. Any suggestions or info would be helpful. Fire is good heat is good. This was at high fire.

 
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Post by coalishot » Sun. Oct. 05, 2008 12:46 pm

Ok been running all night very warm outside today. co sensor reads 0 but doesnt start til 30. sulfur smell present. I hope this isnt the way this thing is going to smell. Why sulfur smell. Also I live in Lehigh Valley West of allentown and was charged 195 a ton for rice coal I picked up. Seems pricey. Any suggestions.

 
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Post by CoalHeat » Sun. Oct. 05, 2008 12:54 pm

How far is the baro from the outlet of the stove? Please describe your chimney.
What surface temps are showing on the stove pipe both before and after the baro?

 
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Post by CoalHeat » Sun. Oct. 05, 2008 1:02 pm

Coalishot--check your PM's

 
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Post by LsFarm » Sun. Oct. 05, 2008 1:29 pm

If it's very warm outside, is your manometer showing a much lower draft?? If you smell sulphur, I'll be the manometer is near zero or less than .02"
Your tri-burner stoker doesn't have a full time combustion blower, so you are relying on chimney draft to pull heat and fumes up the chimney.. some may be getting out of the hopper and stoker or door seals..

Check your draft.

Greg L

 
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Post by rberq » Sun. Oct. 05, 2008 4:39 pm

coalishot -- Are you smelling the sulfur inside the house, or outside the house? It makes a big difference.... Inside should be never or almost never. Outside is not surprising, though it probably won't be severe very often once the weather stays cold. Like Greg says, check your draft when the problem is occurring, especially if the smell is inside.

For the long run, find out from your owners manual or dealer what the draft SHOULD be, and at what burn rate you should check it. Since you have a good manometer, you can mostly ignore the markings on the baro, and adjust its weight until you get the desired reading on the manometer.

 
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Post by coalishot » Sun. Oct. 05, 2008 6:40 pm

I'll have to take temp readings. baro is installed in "T" on top of outlet. Yes it went up to almost 70 today and my draft dropped to .01-.02. I turned it off. Smell is inside house. co reads oo but it doesn't start til 30. Will check with expensive hand held when I restart stove. Smokes when off during burn in. Now just seems to be sulfur smell inside. Gets worse when I turn control down to 2 or lower. Gets better on 4 or higher. Should I maybe put a gasket on the hopper where the lid goes to maybe get more air tight, Alaska manual says .02-.04 is required draft. They also say in trouble shooting section that if I smell sulfur coal is wet in hopper?????????? Do I need to dry this stuff out first?????
Chimney is about 33 feet high from where stove is in it. It is terracotta lined and new never been used. sitting dormant for years. The heat outpu is exceptional but the odor must go. I assume it is not normal to smell sulfur inside.


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